broken rear end caps
- Thread starter No409
- Start date
CDNpontiac409guy
Banned
They're like fingerprints.
That's why I have these:
That's why I have these:
I would think a machine shop could install some used ones by align boring and re-drilling the used caps if needed similar to installing new main caps on a block, but it would get costly.
As far as I know you gotta scrap them. I had a couple broken ones here and best I could find was it was waaaay too costly to repair. No need to buy P cases anymore unless for a restoration. Modify the peg legger, install a GM or Eaton posi with Aubrey's bearing caps and call it a day. I've bought complete peg legs from Jefferson swap meet for $10
poison ivy
Well Known Member
what is necessary to align Aubrey's caps
poison ivy
Well Known Member
ahh haa, i read about the reinforcement straps and i see the modification type, thats needed
CDNpontiac409guy
Banned
Typically takes a couple hours. Need to evenly grind the outer radius surface and file flat the bolt mating surface of the factory cap, so the girdle fits over top with a bit of an "interference", so it clamps over top.
Bolt together the stock cap and girdles, using the supplied bolts, and 1/2" coarse nuts.
Drill through the locking tab bolt hole, from the inside of the stock cap, drilling a new hole through the girdle, using a 17/64" bit.
run a 5/16" coarse thread tap through from the inside of the stock cap.
The longer locking tab bolts will go through the girdle and cap, locking them together.
When assembling, I fill the trough ( recessed groove 0 in the stock cap, with JB Weld.
When done, the assembly is essentially one piece.
There has never been a failure that I have heard of.
Bolt together the stock cap and girdles, using the supplied bolts, and 1/2" coarse nuts.
Drill through the locking tab bolt hole, from the inside of the stock cap, drilling a new hole through the girdle, using a 17/64" bit.
run a 5/16" coarse thread tap through from the inside of the stock cap.
The longer locking tab bolts will go through the girdle and cap, locking them together.
When assembling, I fill the trough ( recessed groove 0 in the stock cap, with JB Weld.
When done, the assembly is essentially one piece.
There has never been a failure that I have heard of.
CDNpontiac409guy
Banned
The first time I addressed this problem, was 1986, in my 61 Biscayne. I spent $450 with a machine shop, and had them manufacture a pair of new steel caps. I image that cost would be near double now.
The "P" is for "Positraction". It's not Corvette specific. There are other stamped numbers that are used to determine what application in which it was used.
Stormed_Norm
Well Known Member
Hey Aubrey, I was wondering why you don't make a full size cap? Basically a gm cap made thicker with extra material like with yours already cast into it. if that makes sense.
CDNpontiac409guy
Banned
Because, as I mentioned... they're like finger prints. Each one is specific to it's position on each separate "pumpkin".
Did it once... brutally expensive. Today, would be at least $800... and the "pumpkin" would have to be at the machine shop, to be fitted.
Did it once... brutally expensive. Today, would be at least $800... and the "pumpkin" would have to be at the machine shop, to be fitted.
Seems like it would fit on a bridgeport , make a jig to hold it, indicate the original side then use a boring head to bring in the new cap. And if the sides need to match just surface grind them in after jig is made im thinking 1.5 hr per cap. Maybe theres more to it than that.