Cleaning the under body???

zootzee

Well Known Member
Hey all I am about to clean the under body of my 64 Belair (from rust, dirt,, oil). How did you guys do yours? Sand blasted, air drill? I was thinking a combination of both. Please any advice would be great, name the tools, and what ever else you would have used.
Thank you
 

skipxt4

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 18
Boy, this is gonna be a dirty job, anyway you do it.:mad: Don't we all wish we had a body tilter? When I did my 64, I sand blasted some of the crud off, also used many drill powered wire brushes. Any place there was under coating I used a propane torch, and a scrapper. It was one of the worst things I ever had to do. But like they say, somebody has to do it.:doh Laying on the ground with debris falling on me, and in my clothes had me talking to myself and the car. Just remember to protect your eyes, and lungs at all times. And try not to start a fire.:roll When your finally finished, you'll be amazed.:clap Good luck Skip:)
 

zootzee

Well Known Member
Yeah, not looking forward to this at all.
Thanks for the help, nice of you not to hold anything back.
Thanks again.
 

roger gunter

 
Supporting Member 1
:cuss :cuss :cuss
:evil :bang :evil :bang
:scratch

good luck like previously said protect your eyes , ears, hair, noise, face, you get the picture

:cheers
roger
 

Tom Kochtanek

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 13
Lots of options

Depending on the condition of the underbody, you have a few options in cleaning and prepping the underside. Not sure how much corrosion you have, etc. but to start the process I generally put the car on a lift and do an initial inspection. This will tell you the condition of the underside and what areas might have deteriorated more than others.

First I generally powerwash everything with a high pressure system. I f you have lots of oil, you might want to prep those areas first, some like the aerosol cans of degreaser. some add a degreaser passed through the high pressure gun. After this you should have a better picture what might lie ahead. If there's undercoating, and you want to remove it, plan on spending a lot of time heating the stuff and scraping it off and getting rid of it. If it's just oil and grease, you are lucky!

Corrosion is of course the worst. You have to decide whether to cut it out and replace, or prepare and seal it somehow to deal with it another time. Eventually someone will have to cut out the corroded sections and replace them as needed....

After you've thoroughly cleaned everything, you need to think about how/whether you might want to coat those newly cleaned surfaces with either something to protect it or something to make it look original, or something to look pretty, whatever. That's your choice. Lots of parts and colors and shades of black to consider here. Do you remove the shocks and springs before painting the underside, that sort of thing. How do you treat the wheels and brake drums? Are you aiming at a faithful restoration, or trying to save what is left, or some thing in between? Some guys go for the "Dupont overhaul" which is the quickie cosmetic coverage of parts with rattle cans and little preparation. Nothing wrong with that (unless you are hiding something and trying to sell it). What is it you are going for?

You have lots of choices, lots of degrees to consider, lots of paths to get there. In the end you'll be glad you cleaned and preserved another X frame car. And then you'll swear you'll never do it again, until the next one comes along :) :) :).

Good luck!

TomK
 

zootzee

Well Known Member
WOW thanks Tom,
Mostly I want to clean it up, and seal it so it doesn't rust. There isn't that much corrosion, mosltly the front floor pans and both body mounts, and some really small spots in the trunk.
The car will be mine for ever. Its just a Sunday cruiser, not for Autorama, (they are for driving and enjoying right, lol).
This will be a long, long, long process.
Wish me luck, lots of it.
 

wally409

Well Known Member
Is there another option other than a propane torch - like a an electric heat paint remover gun
I don't know how comfortable I am using a propane torch in my garage on the underside of the car to remove the undercoat...my firefighter (retired) instincts make me uncomfortable doing this.
Any other suggestions? Thanks, wally
 

dq409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
Is there another option other than a propane torch - like a an electric heat paint remover gun
I don't know how comfortable I am using a propane torch in my garage on the underside of the car to remove the undercoat...my firefighter (retired) instincts make me uncomfortable doing this.
Any other suggestions? Thanks, wally

Heat guns don`t get hot enough or fast enough,,
Just keep a fire extinguisher close by,, fireman,,,:D
 

rwagon57

 
Supporting Member 1
A needle gun will leave you a very lightly textured surface that will take primer really well. No dents or dimples. If you go that way wear hearing protection...its LOUD.
 

models916

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 7
they're sharp

Edges of the needles are sharp from being ground flat. You use is on a slight angle and let the needles scrape the surface. No real solid force behind it. Just the air pushing the needles out very rapidly. Loud and dirty, but effortless. Long and narrow, it get into tight spaces. Sharpen by grinding the needles flat against a grinding wheel. Anybody local can borrow mine anytime.
 

rstreet

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 17
Models & Rwagon:
I had never thought of one of them. I would think they would dimple or dent a floor pan. After all; those industrial versions of them are what they use down at Norfolk Naval Shipyard
Two questions
1. What type of physical pressure to you "press on" the device.
2. Are those things "air hogs" for those of us that don't have a massive air supply:roll
Robert
 

rwagon57

 
Supporting Member 1
The more you lean on one, the less effective they are.

They are air hogs. For the couple days it would take to do the underside, it would be relatively inexpensive to rent an air compressor from your local industrial supply or it could be the justification to your CFO for that compressor upgrade:brow
 

MRHP

 
Supporting Member 1
My Blue Point heat gun is adjustable to 1200 degrees. I would thik this would be more than sufficent to heat up and remove undercoating, debris and old paint. That and a 1 inch scraper. I once removed all of the undercoating and sound deadener in a 64 fairlane t-bolt clone with single edged razer blades and scotchbrite pads with laquer thinner. Time consuming but a perfect job. Take your time, and it will look wonderful!
 

Tom Kochtanek

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 13
POR-15 experiences

I have used the POR product line for a number of auto-related applications, and have been quite satisfied with it's performance to date. I wouldn't spray it unless I was well respirated (which I am not), but using a brush, even a cheapie one dollar brush, leaves good results. The product "flows out" like a good oil base paint on your finished trim in a house. No brush marks that stand out.

When I had my X frame and related frame parts sandblasted, I coated them with POR-15 (two thin coats as recommended) after degreasing and etching the bare metal. It's important to read the labels and to follow the sequences for surface preparation, as in any case.

I've used POR-15 on a slightly corroded interior of a car (after everything was removed). I've used it on new repop floor pans. Battery trays. Lots of places that see corrosion.

If you are just trying to "arrest" future rust, this seems to be a pretty good product, especially in areas which receive a lot punishment and often go unviewed. I would not necessarily use POR-15 to to the inside of say, my engine bay. That I would scuff and spray with something else.

Best thing to do is buy a small amount (I did my entire frame using one quart) and experiment!

Good luck!

TomK
 

Phil Reed

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 10
I once removed all of the undercoating and sound deadener in a 64 fairlane t-bolt clone with single edged razer blades and scotchbrite pads with laquer thinner. Time consuming but a perfect job.

Brian.............any chance you would be spending any time in Kanasas City????? :dunno :dunno You could have Cecil's room and I'd buy beer and food!!!!:roll :roll
 

MRHP

 
Supporting Member 1
No problem. I like a challenge. I don't drink that much beer, but I really can pack the grub away! Might be cheaper to pay by the hour than feed me!:roll
 
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