Correct length of clutch pedal push rod

[Jayz63]

Hey every one. I hope all is well in the 409 world. I’m trying to figure out if my clutch rod is too short from my pedal. I believe it’s about 20-21”. I have it fully adjusted out and I’m not sure if I have a clutch disc issue or a push rod issue. I have the correct z bar and fork. I was thinking about trying a longer rod before replacing the clutch. The problems I’m getting is when I start the car the reverse gear always seems to grind and after driving it about 30 minutes it’s hard to put it into 1&3 gears. This problem has been getting a little bit more common over the last couple months. Thanks in advance. I’m using a 11” Luk clutch 04049. I had found that the pressure plate for Luk was the only brand that sits in the housing without hitting the walls of the bell housing.

 

[Don Jacks]

Which throw out bearing are you using?If the one that you're using is too short,you'll have issues li ke you're having now .

 

[427John]

Are you certain you have the right height TO bearing? there are 3 different heights for chevy's, I went thru this in my 64 K20 when I replaced a LUK clutch that had been behind a swapped in 305 with a Centerforce when I swapped in a 454.

 

[Jayz63]

Shoot this is a great point. I never questioned the length of the throw out bearing. What is correct length. I just installed the one that came with the kit.

 

[63impalass409]

Show cars sells a adjustable lower rod if that helps? I had a similar problem and after I put in the new lower rod I was able to adjust it to work. Other places like summit probably have them also.

 

[Jayz63]

Yeah the rod replacement is by far the easiest avenue to go but I also want to make it right I’ll look for an adjustment one

 

[pvs409]

There are at least 2 different lower threaded rods and a factory 62 & 63 not adjustable lower rod.

The factory upper 62 and 63-64 threaded rod is 20" long from the center of the pin that connects to the clutch pedal to the end of the threads.
The upper 63 rod is not the same as a 62 upper rod (it looks the same but has a few different bends in it)

The longest lower threaded rod (58-60) is 12 & 3/4 inches long and requires a not threaded swivel and a 3/8 x 24 hex nuts used to move/adjust the swivel. This rod adds significant lower adjustment (the factory lower non adjustable rod is just over 9 inches long)
This longer threaded lower rod requires a slotted 58-60 slotted clutch fork.
Show Cars has the best selection of rods and the best explanation of the parts for each adjustable rod.

Paul

 

[Jayz63]

Thank you everyone I will see if I can get a bigger throw out bearing because that I see as the correct fix. Be safe out there everyone.

 

[Impalaguru]

Been there! It's likely that your lower rod is the issue. Do you have an original 553 bellhousing? Do you have the correct 409 fork with the swivel? Is your Z-bar for a 409 car or from a small block? I have pictures of all these parts at home I can share with you.

Ross

 

[Jayz63]

Hello Ross. Yes I have the aluminum 553 BH. The 509 z bar from show cars the lower push rod with the nipple that goes to the clutch fork. Not sure if there is a sbc clutch fork and specific 409 one. Yeah would you please send me some pictures so I can compare. Thank you.

 

[Impalaguru]

Here's some pictures of the 63 409 clutch linkage. The lower leg of the 409 Z-bar is shorter than the small block. See picture. Also, the lower rod is shorter. Furthermore, the end for the 409 rod has a smaller end to fit the swivel. The small block fork doesn't use a swivel and resembles what a typical 60s-70s chevrolet fork looks like. The 409 clutch fork is also different. I once swapped a 409 into a small block car and had the same problem you have. I didn't have access to the correct parts so I ended up making a longer lower rod. It worked but was never "right". I hope this helps.

Ross

 

[pvs409]

That 409 style clutch fork in your pictures was used in 1962 and 1963 on small block and 409 cars.
In fact I removed a used fork like that 409 fork from a 1962 Chevy factory 6 cylinder car ( I removed the 409 fork from the 62 parts car and used it on one my 62’s - I remember it since I thought what a find for only $20 at the time).

I have seen this 409 style fork on 327 cars from 1962( I have done 8 frame off restorations of 62’s over many years)

I have that lower clutch linkage with the pin and the 409 style fork on my 62 Impala 327/300HP 4 speed car with a factory 552 cast iron bell housing( same as a 553 aluminum bell housing). This 327 - 1962 has a 10 & 1/2 clutch with the short ( not tall) throughout bearing with plenty of adjustment to get the proper free play.
I do have the 283 & 327 Z bar on this 327 1962 Impala - this Z bar has a longer arm than the 409 Z bar and provides more adjustment for the clutch using the 9 & 1/2 inch lower rod with the pin.
Paul

 

[Jayz63]

Thank you so much. I will be measuring my items. I know for sure I have the correct z bar lower push rod. I’m questioning my clutch fork. What is the length of the upper clutch rod. Thank you.

 

[pvs409]

The factory threaded upper clutch fork is 20” - see my full note where it was measured from and too posted on
February 21st.
Paul

 

[Jayz63]

Okay so after measuring all my items. It appears I might have the wrong clutch fork. See attached photos. Tell me if you all agree. My fork if lying flat from my angles with the pictures I took shows it at 2-1/4” in height.

 

[pvs409]

I bet that clutch fork has a slot in it for a different threaded clutch rod?
You have what appears to be a not threaded lower rod with a pin in the clutch fork that connects to the lower not threaded clutch rod.
As I said before here on this posting, a 9 & 1/2 inch or 12 3/4 inch long threaded lower clutch rod with a swivel will work on that clutch fork assuming it has a slot as I just asked.

There are 2 clutch forks that will work on 61-63 Chevys with smooth cast iron ( 552)or smooth alumnum
bell housings (553)
The other factory clutch fork is shown on page one of this posting ( with one bend) - some call this fork a 409 clutch fork used in 1962-63 - 327 & 409 cars

the fork you have has 2 bends in the arm and provides about one inch less adjustment because it’s about 1” further away from the Z bar arm
My point as I stated before just change the lower push rod “to the longer threaded one” before changing the clutch fork

i have pictures of both clutch forks that work with the 2 different lower rods.

Paul

 

[pvs409]

Here is the clutch fork and linkage that I think you have.
this fork has 2 bends in the fork (with a slot in the clutch fork.

 

[Jayz63]

Okay I’ll try the lower threaded rod. But where on the fork will I hook it up to unless the dimple that the current fork is sold for an adjustable one. Thanks

 

[pvs409]

Here is the factory clutch fork for 62-63 (called a 409 fork but it was on 327 cars also) -that has one bend in the arm (as posted above by Impalaguru ) but it does not have a slot(so you can only use one type of lower clutch rod "that is not adjustable"

As I said above switch the lower clutch rod to a longer one that is threaded and a pin hole to fit the
slot in your clutch fork

this 12 and 3/4 inch lower threaded rod

https://show-cars.com/product/557

or this 9 & 1/2 inch lower threaded rod
https://show-cars.com/product/558

 

[pvs409]

here is the way the threaded rod fits on my 62 SS 409 Hardtop