Does Rotella T4 still have zinc??

Ishiftem

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Unless you have a diesel, why use a diesel oil? Why add some magic potion to your oil instead of buying the right oil? Rotella has 1200 ppm zinc. That’s good! It also has different detergent and dispersants than a gas oil. That’s bad!!! There isn’t one type of zinc and some magic level of it that determines an oil’s effectiveness for an application. It’s the additive package as a whole that determines that. Pouring some magic zinc potion into your oil will not turn a poor oil into a good one. And too much zinc with the wrong detergent package will do more harm than good. Just buy the right oil.
 

63impaloligist

Well Known Member
I ran an Olds 307 on natural gas engine oil, 40wt, for a year without problems. It didn't really like to start cold though. It was free. Better than no oil. I mix Rotella 15-40 conventional with 5-40 synthetic in the Ram. I use ATF mixed with oil to clean out engines before pulling them out of vehicles and I drain them hot.
 

La Hot Rods

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 15
Is this a time oil change or a mileage change? If time I would buy the cheapest on the shelf with the weight range I wanted.
I buy the best deal I can find on racing oil for the race car, not sure I have the best for it but I haven't had a... oh never mind :hide
 

bobs409

 
Administrator
Unless you have a diesel, why use a diesel oil? Why add some magic potion to your oil instead of buying the right oil? Rotella has 1200 ppm zinc. That’s good! It also has different detergent and dispersants than a gas oil. That’s bad!!! There isn’t one type of zinc and some magic level of it that determines an oil’s effectiveness for an application. It’s the additive package as a whole that determines that. Pouring some magic zinc potion into your oil will not turn a poor oil into a good one. And too much zinc with the wrong detergent package will do more harm than good. Just buy the right oil.
So what oil is "correct" oil? None of it has zinc anymore that I know of. I never used Rotella but heard of many that do because it has the zinc. I'm confused so that's why I posted this.

Looks like I'm going to get 100 different answers which should help. :doh

The 3 that need the oil changes are my daily drivers; 87 Jeep 4cyl, 71 Chevelle 6 cyl and 71 Chevy truck crate 350. All around 3,500 miles since the last oil changes. I've been using either Valvoline, Castrol or even Quaker State conventional oil that I add the ZDDP into but is that good enough? I've been hearing so much about this Rotella I thought I better ask. It's about the same price.
 

Jim Sullivan

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 10
I haven't checked Rotella's label lately, but several years ago I no longer saw zinc as being listed on the label. I'm pretty sure they stopped using zinc. Maybe they started adding it to the oil again or maybe there is a specific type of oil they still use it in.
 

bobs409

 
Administrator
Well this is strange!! While researching prices, I put the Rotella T4 5 qt jug in the shopping cart at Amazon last night so I wouldn't lose the one I was looking at. Price was $24.99

I was just over there looking around and it says the price DECREASED to $15.98! WTF????? $9.01 decrease????

Someone explain that to me. :unsure:
 
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Reactions: 327

SSpev

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
Unless you have a diesel, why use a diesel oil? Why add some magic potion to your oil instead of buying the right oil? Rotella has 1200 ppm zinc. That’s good! It also has different detergent and dispersants than a gas oil. That’s bad!!! There isn’t one type of zinc and some magic level of it that determines an oil’s effectiveness for an application. It’s the additive package as a whole that determines that. Pouring some magic zinc potion into your oil will not turn a poor oil into a good one. And too much zinc with the wrong detergent package will do more harm than good. Just buy the right oil.
As I work in a prominent diesel company research facility, I would have to agree. BUT I would not bet Rotella has 1200 ppm any more. Deiasl oils are coming closer to the gas oils as time and EPA moves on. I would have to see if we still have it tested in the data base. 2 other ingredients is phosphorous ( dialkyldithiophosphate )and ash. All 3 have been reduced. A quick search I found this list from 2015.

MY personal experience and observation. I DO NOT run special oil in my 35 year old 327. My theory is after some time of breakin it is no longer necessary. I have not ran special oil in any of my vehicles. I DO use break in oils for new builds. I just did a 305 and a 350 OLDS. They will both run high zddp oils for 2 or 3 oil changes then switch to regular oil.
Now this all COMPLEATLY depends on the cam AND spring rate! A stiff spring will ALWAYS NEED ZDDP. ZDDP are HIGH pressure modifiers. That is why they are needed in flat tappet cams with high pressure springs.

Here is another tidbit https://www.api.org/-/media/files/c...-diesel/publications/motor oil guide 1020.pdf
 

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Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
Bob,The Jeep and Chevelle likely dson't need anything more than a decent 10w30 having so many miles with good oil and their soft valve springs in them.The pick up with the crate motor I would use Lucas Hot Rod 10w30 for a few more changes.
From what I've seen,once broken in with good oil,there really isn't any need for ''trick''oils in a stok/mild engine.
 

region rat

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
Comp sells a muscle car oil as well. New oils do not take flat tappts cams into consideration. I have read threads that stated detergents tend to wash off the zinc additive. And that is was better to use an oil that has the zinc blended at their factory.
Bottom line, use what works for you.
Bob
 

Ishiftem

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
It's a very confusing topic. One reason is there is so much bad info out there such as the ppm of zinc being an only determining factor. Such as " you need 1200 ppm of zinc". Really? What about calcium? Calcium and zinc fight each other. So an oil with 800 ppm of zinc can actually be a better oil than one with 1200 ppm if the detergent package, which calcium is a part of, is lower in the 800 ppm oil. There is also boron and friction modifiers that also play a role. Again there are different types of zinc. Break in oil has a type of short chain zinc molecule That bounds quickly which makes it great for break in when the cam and lifters are starting with nothing and that type of oil has very few if any detergents so the zinc stays in place. But it is short lived which is why it is only for break in. So what I am saying is do not get hung up a specific number for zinc when determining if an oil is good. It's only a small part of the story. Take into consideration there other additives that have been developed to take the place of zddp. For a stock engine, most off the shelf better quality oils will perform just fine. For a performance engine or you don't mind spending more money, use one of the oils such as Penn Grade, Driven Hot Rod or GP1, Amsoil, etc. Don't use additives!
 
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