Drag slicks
- Thread starter Tic's60
- Start date
I run M & H 9-30x15's on 10" wheels. For some reason, 8" wheels make the sidewalls "pooch" out enough more to rub. I've done as much "modifying" with a hammer as I was allowed years ago in NMCA(NOW you can tub)& haven't bothered more now since these hook very well.
SO, I'd say NO they won't work-at least on a 64.
SO, I'd say NO they won't work-at least on a 64.
They might fit the fender well and the frame, I wonder if they will fit the dogleg up front. I run 275/60/15 M&H Racemasters With an 8" rim. With the correct rim offset I could go with more width but the 28" tire comes really close to the front of the wheel opening. Another problem I have is getting the tire and rim past the outer fender/brake drum to mount. If I hold my tongue just right they will fit. The three inch wheel studs have to be in just the right position or it'll make you cuss! I wonder what a 60 chevy would look like with radius wheel openings 
I recently bought a set of MT 29.5 x 10.5 and have been wondering if they are going to fit too. I figured instead of being depressed now....I'll wait til I'm about to use them to find out. 
I know that with my 8" rims and 4 1/2" backspacing the MT 28"x10.5-15's fit pretty good. I'm hoping that the new one's aren't any wider just taller. Hogmotors (Gordon I think?) is a wealth of great information and I would have said after reading his reply that there is no use in trying it, but from reading prior posts from some of ya'll 1960 owners....I'm thinking ya'll have more wheelwell room somehow so maybe it'll be different? Maybe the body is a hair wider back there on 59 & 60's?? I know the only way I was ever to run a 15"x10" rim with old L-60's on my 61 was to run a 6" backspacing. NOTHING else would work to fit a 10" wheel on my car. I think that if I ever change the rearend (again) that I'm going to to with one about 2" narrower and run less backspacing....that way those brakes will be an inch per side farther from the quarter panel and that outta make changing tires a whole lot easier. As far as how would a 60 look with radius wheel openings......if you had rusty quarters that you were gonna replace anyway eventually it would be fun to try, but there is NO way I'd ever do that to either of your cars.
I know that with my 8" rims and 4 1/2" backspacing the MT 28"x10.5-15's fit pretty good. I'm hoping that the new one's aren't any wider just taller. Hogmotors (Gordon I think?) is a wealth of great information and I would have said after reading his reply that there is no use in trying it, but from reading prior posts from some of ya'll 1960 owners....I'm thinking ya'll have more wheelwell room somehow so maybe it'll be different? Maybe the body is a hair wider back there on 59 & 60's?? I know the only way I was ever to run a 15"x10" rim with old L-60's on my 61 was to run a 6" backspacing. NOTHING else would work to fit a 10" wheel on my car. I think that if I ever change the rearend (again) that I'm going to to with one about 2" narrower and run less backspacing....that way those brakes will be an inch per side farther from the quarter panel and that outta make changing tires a whole lot easier. As far as how would a 60 look with radius wheel openings......if you had rusty quarters that you were gonna replace anyway eventually it would be fun to try, but there is NO way I'd ever do that to either of your cars.
thanks everyone!! For the price I thought it might be worth looking into but with the limited space it would be best to wait for the 325/50-15's that I know will fit under and around the openings.
At the very bottom front part of the wheel well opening I actualy will be cutting a pie out and straightening the lip slightly. About a 1/2" - 3/4" strip. Won't even be able to tell it's there unless you know and it will help some of the tire removal issues I have which consit of
1. Un bolt shocks - sometimes the pan hard bar
2. Lift car and let axle hang
3. deflate tires
4. drink beer and ponder if this is really what I want to do
5. Roll cuss roll cuss, smoke cig, cuss roll (in not so certian order) drink beer
6. Roll tire out buzzed and wheezing
Now aint that fun!!
At the very bottom front part of the wheel well opening I actualy will be cutting a pie out and straightening the lip slightly. About a 1/2" - 3/4" strip. Won't even be able to tell it's there unless you know and it will help some of the tire removal issues I have which consit of
1. Un bolt shocks - sometimes the pan hard bar
2. Lift car and let axle hang
3. deflate tires
4. drink beer and ponder if this is really what I want to do
5. Roll cuss roll cuss, smoke cig, cuss roll (in not so certian order) drink beer
6. Roll tire out buzzed and wheezing
Now aint that fun!!
1. Un bolt shocks - sometimes the pan hard bar
2. Lift car and let axle hang
3. deflate tires
4. drink beer and ponder if this is really what I want to do
5. Roll cuss roll cuss, smoke cig, cuss roll (in not so certian order) drink beer
6. Roll tire out buzzed and wheezing
Now aint that fun!![/QUOTE]
Been there done that
:
2. Lift car and let axle hang
3. deflate tires
4. drink beer and ponder if this is really what I want to do
5. Roll cuss roll cuss, smoke cig, cuss roll (in not so certian order) drink beer
6. Roll tire out buzzed and wheezing
Now aint that fun!![/QUOTE]
Been there done that
:
New Year's cruise !
You might need alittle tread on the tires for the drive over to "T Willey's" on New Years Day !!!!
You might need alittle tread on the tires for the drive over to "T Willey's" on New Years Day !!!!
Mike you might want to reconsider using those 325/50's since they are a radial and you are shifting your own. You'd have alot more traction with a bias ply....something like the M/T ET Street 28"x12.5"-15 (same size as the 28"x10.5" ET Drag slick....why do they size them differently within the same company??)
Anyway.....everyone says that stick shifts and drag radials don't work that well together due to the stiffer sidewalls. IDK. Or just get some real slicks for traction and some regular old 325/50 street tires to play on.
Anyway.....everyone says that stick shifts and drag radials don't work that well together due to the stiffer sidewalls.
IDK. Or just get some real slicks for traction and some regular old 325/50 street tires to play on.
Mike you might want to reconsider using those 325/50's since they are a radial and you are shifting your own. You'd have alot more traction with a bias ply....something like the M/T ET Street 28"x12.5"-15 (same size as the 28"x10.5" ET Drag slick....why do they size them differently within the same company??)
Anyway.....everyone says that stick shifts and drag radials don't work that well together due to the stiffer sidewalls.
Read that after reading your post
"Drag radials don't work well with stickshifts. Their sidewalls are too stiff, and don't absorb the shockloads a stick car produces very well. You NEED a bias ply drag or DOT slick. These have flexible sidewalls which absorb the shockloads of a stick.
Plus, DR's don't recover from spinning nearly as well as a bias ply slick. Once they start spinning, they are toast. Their stiff sidewalls get them spinning easy, then their radial construction keeps them spinning.
Yes, they DO have pretty good adhesion as long as you don't shock them into spinning. This is why they work ok with an automatic. Just don't expect the same with a stick.
Go buy some 26 x 8.5 slicks from Mickey Thompson, or some 26 x 8 or 26 x 9 slicks from Hoosier. (or their DOT equivalents) These WILL hook you car to the track like vel-cro.
About torque multiplying and converters..... That's really just a fancy way of saying the engine is able to rev up and make more torque before the car starts moving. They are not a magic device that pulls torque out of thin air. Torque converters can only output what in put into them. Nothing more. They are LESS efficient at transmitting power than a clutch. Much of that power is lost as heat. This is why you will see stick cars mph better at the track than cars with slushboxes. They get more power to the rear wheels."
So soft sidewalls then?
I run the regular MT 28"x10.5" MT drag slicks, but think I'll buy the ET Streets if I buy new next time just to be able to drive it one the street on a dry day.
From what I hear from people in the know.....soft sidewalls are what you need, but if you had the funding to try different stuff...I'd think that one of the stiffer sidewalled slicks for heavy cars (that are still softer sidewalls than radial tires) would be just right probably. That way you absorb the initial shock, but they are still a little stiffer to support the extra weight and stabalize you some at the top end. I know on my car....13 psi would hook great every time, but then you had to DRIVE on the top end. If I set them at 15 they hooked MOST of the time, but the car went straight much better at speed. Logic would say I should set it at 14 and be happy, but that turned out to be a crap shoot at best. I picked 15 and the staying straighter. I was only running for the fun of it anyway.
Call me about the fenders and stuff when you can. I have tried to call you a few times and missed ya, but then I don't think about it when it's a decent hour. I have pics of them on the camera, but my pc is in the shop which has the camera software on it. I think it's supposed to be finished tomorrow, so hopefully I can unload them then.
From what I hear from people in the know.....soft sidewalls are what you need, but if you had the funding to try different stuff...I'd think that one of the stiffer sidewalled slicks for heavy cars (that are still softer sidewalls than radial tires) would be just right probably. That way you absorb the initial shock, but they are still a little stiffer to support the extra weight and stabalize you some at the top end. I know on my car....13 psi would hook great every time, but then you had to DRIVE on the top end. If I set them at 15 they hooked MOST of the time, but the car went straight much better at speed. Logic would say I should set it at 14 and be happy, but that turned out to be a crap shoot at best. I picked 15 and the staying straighter. I was only running for the fun of it anyway.
Call me about the fenders and stuff when you can. I have tried to call you a few times and missed ya, but then I don't think about it when it's a decent hour. I have pics of them on the camera, but my pc is in the shop which has the camera software on it. I think it's supposed to be finished tomorrow, so hopefully I can unload them then.
E-mailed you a few times after I seen the calls. Been snowing here until today and now it's a flood and mud.
Here's a good read http://www.hardcore50.com/technical_articles/LaunchingPart1.htm
I'm off till the 5th so I am either in the house or under the car
Putting in new fuel lines and re-wiring the power side of the car. Will also be going for round two of the itchy and finishing the hood and putting the fiberglass bumpers together
Here's a good read http://www.hardcore50.com/technical_articles/LaunchingPart1.htm
I'm off till the 5th so I am either in the house or under the car
Putting in new fuel lines and re-wiring the power side of the car. Will also be going for round two of the itchy and finishing the hood and putting the fiberglass bumpers together
Thanks for that link. "For the most part, the IC is what is adjusted to get the initial hook and the shocks should be adjusted to maintain the traction throughout the 60'." That sounds like a pretty good statement to remember. I know alot of people swear by their adjustable shocks. I would have hated to try and make that truck hook up. 2600 lbs on the front end and only 900 on the back!!! Looks like he is doing great with a 1.26 sixty foot time though. I guess with enough cubic inches and N2O you can do that stuff.
New Year's Day !!!
Tic,
Missed you at the New Years Day cruise ! These were a few less cars than last year, but the weather turned out "Not-to-bad" for Jan 1st, 2009. There were a couple of cars I hadn't seen before and not so many of the high $$$ cars, more drivers like ours. 
I'll post some pictures this week.
Tic,
Missed you at the New Years Day cruise !
These were a few less cars than last year, but the weather turned out "Not-to-bad" for Jan 1st, 2009. There were a couple of cars I hadn't seen before and not so many of the high $$$ cars, more drivers like ours. I'll post some pictures this week.
Tic,
Missed you at the New Years Day cruise !
Sounded fun! I was stuck on another project BUT I am heading out today!
Just finished heat soaking the motor so the tunnel rams warm in the 20 degree weather. Then it's off and running to Mom and Pop's and out to the country!
bigblockwilly
Well Known Member
just for the record I run 275/60/15 M/H Racemasters on a 7 inch rally on my 64 and have had no clerance issues, but the stock rear end dident like that to much. by the way anyone know where i could pick up a bolt in nine inch for like 700 bucks or know a shop that can shorten one around the joliet area cause this is 2nd time i broke it(dident learn the first)? any help is appreciated
I run the same tire on an 8" rim. I did my 9" rear myself and have over $1200.00 in it, lots of work but woth it.
rear axle
Bigblockwilly, Have you thought of upgrading your stock rear axle with a girdle, changing the side gears to accept a 30 spline axle, and an aftermarket axle like Moser? I have, and so far so good. A fella on our site, Aubrey, helped me with this stuff. I also have the 4th control arm bracket I got from him but haven't got it installed yet.
Bigblockwilly, Have you thought of upgrading your stock rear axle with a girdle, changing the side gears to accept a 30 spline axle, and an aftermarket axle like Moser? I have, and so far so good. A fella on our site, Aubrey, helped me with this stuff. I also have the 4th control arm bracket I got from him but haven't got it installed yet.
A little more than you may need but he can do others setup's. I am sure prices have changed some. Here's mine
"Mike-
You can call anytime, of it you want me to call name the time and I'll give you a ring. Here is an updated price with the drum brake kit added:
$845 - 9" Housing/Axle Package (59-64 Full Size Chevy)
- Moser Axles, Axle Bearings, Wheel Studs, & Retainers
- 35 Spline, 5 on 4-3/4" Bolt Pattern, 1/2" Studs
$925 - Center Section (Assembled) ** ALL NEW PARTS **
- Strange Nodular Iron S-Case
- Aluminum Daytona Pinion Support
- 1350 Forged Steel Yoke
- 35 Spline Drag Spool
- Motive Performance Gears (Choice of Ratio)
- Timken USA Bearings
$275 - 11" Drum Brake Kit (New Drums, New Shoes, & New Internals)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
$150 - SHIPPING
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
$2195 - TOTAL
The original quote listed the correct price for the center section but listed a posi instead of a spool by mistake. I apologize for that. The 11" drum brake kit will come completely assembled and ready to bolt-on. No assembly would be required.
I look forward to doing business with you. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Thanks,
BRYDON
641-751-8060"
bigblockwilly
Well Known Member
I have heard of the girdle and swaping the gears, but i got a 9 inch for free from a buddy of mine and only have about 500- 700 dollars so im really trying to stay on the cheep. bout how much was the conversion to a 30 spline axle, the girdle, and axles all together? and what would be a good price to have one shortened and new brackets welded on?
OOps.
Fatride, I forgot to mention that the front side of the wheel well down at the bottom has been, uh...."modified"-otherwise, The slicks would probably rub.
I used to run 2.75 M&H DOT tires & did not have any clearence issues. Just a bit "interesting" coming out of the hole w/8-10psi in them!
Fatride, I forgot to mention that the front side of the wheel well down at the bottom has been, uh...."modified"-otherwise, The slicks would probably rub.
I used to run 2.75 M&H DOT tires & did not have any clearence issues. Just a bit "interesting" coming out of the hole w/8-10psi in them!