Engine won't start

nomadci

Active Member
Supporting Member 2
Engine turns but won't fire. Checked timing TDC, distributor mark, spark plug wiring sequence and gas flow. :mad: Getting spark at plugs. I get backfires through the carb and gas dripping from exhaust manifold (no pipes yet), had to put out fire with extinguisher from dripping gas igniting via misfire (starting engine for fisrt time section have an extinguisher on hand saved my engine) :? . You would think timing but after checking it 3 times? Using MSD ready to run w/blaster coil and resistor on firewall. I got that I'm missing something syndrome :help
 

64ss409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 9
Is there a chance you have it timed for no 6 instead of no 1? Distributor off 180?
Ron
 

1911

Active Member
i would guess the dist is 180 off. when you check TDC are you pulling #1 plug to make sure your on compression stroke? with rotor pointing to #1 on cap, if points style dist. and timing mark at 0 or I prefer to static time and have the timing mark at 4-6 BTDC, rotate the dist housing until the points begin to open. if it's an electronic trigger then rotate the housing until the pick-up coil and pole piece "points" point at each other. However now that the engine has been flooded, pull the plugs and dry or replace them. blow compressed air in the cylinders to dry them, open the carb butterflies and same thing to dry the intake. Check the oil, do you smell gas? then change the oil and filter. The rings need oil for lube and to seal so a couple shots of oil in each cyl. to try to save the cyl wall finish and rings. make sure your on compression, static time, try again. just my opinion.
 

Seon

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
Take #1 plug out, wad a piece of paper to a small ball and place it in the spark plug hole.
Crank the engine until the wad of paper "pops" out. There's your number one, so set your distributor accordingly. Good luck.
 

JimKwiatkowski

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 5
Here's an easy way to check if your dist is in correctly.Remove the drivers side valve cover,and put your timining marks at TDC,your intake and exhaust valvles should both be closed.If there not rotate your crank 360 deg,then install your dist at #1.
 

jester

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 5
First start.

All of the above and I would get a set of manifords or headers to control the flame and the cold air from hitting those new valves. Just a thought. Good luck...
 

JimKwiatkowski

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 5
Resistor

fatride said:
Loose the resistor, MSD ready to run needs 12 volts. ;)

I,m running a resistor left over from my Mallory Ign Sys.When I switched over to MSD I still kept it,should I remove it :dunno .I ran a voltage and here's what I have.At my battery (in the trunk) I have 12.35 Volts,the Ign switch side of the resistor has 11.35 Volts,the other side of the resistor I have my MSD 6L and my MSD Dist and has 11.25 Volts.Should I remove my resistor :dunno
 

nomadci

Active Member
Supporting Member 2
Yes TDC is with compression stroke on #1 cylinder, I can actually see the cylinder. I changed the oil and filter, dried the plugs, intake manifold and cylinders. I just put some oil (about 1/2 teaspoon) in each of the cylinders to lube them. I checked timing, plug wiring sequence and removed the resistor. I am waiting for a neighbor to come by and assist in trying to start engine given the circumstances. It does have exhaust manifolds on. I'll have to wait till Monday to have the pipes put on. It is pointing at #1 with cylinder at TDC and distributor rotor points to #1 with point coil on base housing pointing at 'point' 1.
 

jester

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 5
Stupid question of the day.

Do you have the plug wires in the distributer in a clock wise or counter clock wise direction?

I told you it was a dump question. :doh
 

Fathead Racing

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 7
resistor

The resistor is for points type distributors, it has no use for the HEI type distributors.
 

tmracing62

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
nomadci - don't feel bad. We've all been there. This is all good advice. One thing - even though you're getting spark if you haven't tried this it might answer the question if ALL the plugs are firing - take a spare plug of the type and gap you are using and attach each plug wire to it one at a time (of course). If they all spark then you're good. The reason is MSD rotors can be bad right out of the box and a crack can cause erratic firing. Dist cap too can be a problem.

The spit ball method of finding TDC is interesting enough just to do it for entertainment. :rolleyes: :roll
 

jester

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 5
OK, Lets get serious. If it is not timing than the cylinders are firing with the valves open , Do we have the valves adjusted correctly? Hydraulic or solid cam?
 

JimKwiatkowski

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 5
I always adjust hydraulic valves with zero lash,and no 1/2 turn :dunno Here's a tec tip on adjusting hydraulic valves from MR 409.

Setting hydraulic lifters:

Start with #1 cylinder. As exhaust valve starts to open (approximately .050), set #1 intake with a .005 feeler gauge; then tighten 1/4 turn.
As #1 intake valve opens fully and starts to close (approximately .050), set #1 exhaust with a .005 feeler gauge; then tighten 1/4 turn.
Repeat on other seven cylinders
 

Bungy

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
This may seem elementary but you never know. Firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. Plugs are numbered from front to back 1-3-5-7 on drivers side and passenger side is 2-4-6-8. Tell us exactly how you determined TDC #1 was on compression stroke?
 

nomadci

Active Member
Supporting Member 2
Bungy, funny you should ask that. Originally I had the engine 'open' (intake off, timing chain cover off) and could visually see that #1 was at TDC. How ever when I installed the torque converter I had to turn the flywheel to install the bolts. This was done without the distributor in so TDC from 'open' changed. I set the timing mark to 0 which is what it was at TDC and checked the position of piston #1 as being all the way up (visable through the spark plug opening with light). However i did this more than once and on 2 occassions the distributor was 180 degress off...this even though the cylinder was up and the timing mark was at 0. :dunno Itried it both was to no avail. :? The firing order was correct.
 

mpris

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
The piston will ALWAYS be up with the timing mark on zero. Having the piston at TDC AND both valves closed is where you want to be when you drop in the distributor. You must have the number one cylinder on the compression stroke(both valves closed) when the rotor button is pointing to number one on the distributor cap. If at this time you rotate the engine one complete turn to the zero timing mark, you are on the exhaust stroke. If the distributor is pointing to number one at this time, the gas in the cylinder will be ignited and fire back through the open valves when you try to crank it.
So pull the valve cover off the drivers side and rotate the crank to zero timing mark and look at the valves for number one cylinder. If both valves are closed, the rotor button should be pointing at the plug wire in the cap which is going to the number one cylinder. If the rotor button is pointing toward the firewall with both valves closed and at zero timing mark, you have the distributor 180 degrees out. If this is the case, just pull the distributor up and rotate the rotor so it points to the number one cylinder and drop the distributor back in.
If I am telling you something you have already tried just ignore all of the above.

Poocho
 
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