Front Brake disc kit-needed

Iowa409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
I was not even planning on changing my booster. Just mount new master to old booster
 

Iowa409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
New Brakes are on their way, getting ready, all stripped down and waiting, new 409 springs, new greaseable upper and lower ball joints and sway bar, the brakes should be the finishing touches on the suspension. Happy Camper<<<<<<<<
 

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Iowa409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
Parts should be here Thursday/Friday, so spare time, good weather, clean up all this dirty looking suspension and get some fresh POR 15 on it.

Its setting around on the shelf, might as well make use of it.
 

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  • Treating metal before POR 15.jpg
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Iowa409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
Did you check those upper and lower control atm bushings ???? I wear gloves doing por 15...
Yes me too, nitro gloves but that crap gets everywhere, new ball joints upper and lower and Upper and lower control arm/A Frame bushing when put together a year ago, after this is all done it is in bad need of alignment, it was all new from ground up and there is nothing close to being in alignment yet.
 

Iowa409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
I do have that steering valve that is dripping...... I am thinking I better replace that before alignment?
Hopefully I can find someone who does old school alignments and not the newer style 4 wheel alignments, where they can set caster and camber etc, toe in/out
 

blkblk63ss

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 5
A four wheel aligner can do it . They cant do anything on rear ajustment any way except tell what the settings are. Be sure to mark threads before removing control valve that will affect steering wheel centering. Put new back on same threads depth.
 

Iowa409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
A four wheel aligner can do it . They cant do anything on rear ajustment any way except tell what the settings are. Be sure to mark threads before removing control valve that will affect steering wheel centering. Put new back on same threads depth.
sounds good, had no idea, thank you.
 

Iowa409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
When I was removing rubber brake lines in the front, those lines were really dry rotted and cracked badly, probably not flowing much fluid, obviously the new brakes will use a different style, probably a banjo bolt style with crush washers, but I have some new brake lines for the original drums in one of my drawers, I better replace those rear ones also, these look like original equipment lol.

I am running all new hard lines up front, re-using hard lines to the rear, but definitely new rubber lines.
 

Iowa409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
Well its Friday morning, I got my entire kit from 1958 delivery yesterday, what a TOP NOTCH kit, everything fits like a glove and looks so nice on there, going to start plumbing and hydraulics this weekend. There will be a little bit to figure out there but this a awesome kit, and he was able to get me the bigger rotor and pistons on the Calipers with the 1 1/8" bore Master cylinder, WIN/WIN. I cannot say enough good things about this kit.
 

Iowa409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
Question?? 1 of my 3/16” lines kinked, I want to cut it with my mini tubing cutter and couple it back with a 3/16 ferrule type coupler. Will it withstand a patch like that with ferrules or am I better to scrap the line and buy another?
 
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