Front end rebuilding time

[Tic's60]

As soon as the new sissor lift gets here Well it's not new but it's new to me!

Got most of the parts to redo all of the bushings ball joints and was wondering about a good spring compressor.

What type will fit these springs and work well? I have all of the forks and a BFH but is there any other tools that migh be needed?

Any gotchas tip tricks on redoing the a arm assemblies?

I already redid the inner and outer tie rods this last summer so they are good.

Oh if your wondering what years fit a 1960 Chevy BelAir here ya go

Ball joint Lower

1958 - 1970 BEL AIR
1963 - 1982 CORVETTE

1958 - 1970 BISCAYNE
1959 - 1970 IMPALA

1969 - 1970 BROOKWOOD
1969 - 1970 KINGSWOOD

1966 - 1970 CAPRICE
1969 - 1970 TOWNSMAN

1961 - 1964 CORVAIR

Ball Joint Upper

1955 - 1970 BEL AIR
1963 - 1982 CORVETTE

1958 - 1970 BISCAYNE
1959 - 1970 IMPALA

1969 - 1970 BROOKWOOD
1969 - 1970 KINGSWOOD

1966 - 1970 CAPRICE
1969 - 1970 TOWNSMAN

1961 - 1964 CORVAIR

later

 

[Tom Kochtanek]

Spring compressors

Tic:

Your gonna get to use that BFH more than any other tool .

Those pickle forks don't really separate as well as a blow from the BFH.

I bought my rebuild parts locally and just borrowed (they loan them out at the local NAPA store, etc.) a compressor from the store I purchased most of my parts from. You can buy these for $30 - $40 or so (as I recall) if you need to own them. I ended up buying one on Ebay. Can't remember the brand, but I do recommend lubing the heck out of the main thread, it really is under a lot of stress.

If nobody chimes in I'll look down the messy basement and dig the part out and let you know the brand, etc.

Be careful, as that compressed spring really stores a lot of energy, and you don't want to see them accidentally release. Make sure the compressor is in there really straight, if not, take it out and realign. Some recommend putting a chain around the compressed spring just for insurance.

I'm sure others will add their experiences!

Good luck,
TomK

 

[oldskydog]

I never liked the typical spring compressors so I made my own. Get a length of threaded rod, sufficient large flat washers and nuts, and a threaded eye for the bottom end. Remove the shocks, get a lower shock mount from a donor or fab one to bolt to the lower A-arm through the eye on the end of the threaded rod, insert the rod up through the upper shock mounting hole and tighten away. Once the spring is compressed, unbolt the lower arm and back off the upper nut to relax the spring. This way compresses the spring straight without it bending and trying to pop out the side. Whatever you do don't use a cheap made- in- China spring compressor from Harbor Freight or similar. they are soft and will bend if not break.:eek:

 

[Tic's60]

I never liked the typical spring compressors so I made my own. Get a length of threaded rod, sufficient large flat washers and nuts, and a threaded eye for the bottom end. Remove the shocks, get a lower shock mount from a donor or fab one to bolt to the lower A-arm through the eye on the end of the threaded rod, insert the rod up through the upper shock mounting hole and tighten away. Once the spring is compressed, unbolt the lower arm and back off the upper nut to relax the spring. This way compresses the spring straight without it bending and trying to pop out the side. Whatever you do don't use a cheap made- in- China spring compressor from Harbor Freight or similar. they are soft and will bend if not break.:eek:

Thats a damm cool idea!! I just happen to have a nice chunck of 3/4 all thread too. Thanks for the info!!

 

[de31168]

I have still been unable to get my ball joints apart with a pickle fork. My frame is seperated from the rest of the car already, but I got mine taken apart by unbolting the upper control arms, taking the shims out, and prying them over the upper frame mounts. The springs never really popped out, the frame jumped a bit but nothing major. Of course the sets of springs i did were 44 and 49 years old respectively and probably lost most of their "spring."

 

[Tic's60]

I found in other info that some of the older ball joint assemblies are rivited in, mine are, and you have to grind off the rivits and replace the whole unit.
My 1958 shop book and 1960 suppliment book came in yesterday as well so I got some reading materials now as well.

I seen a spring pop out of a strut before and the hole it left in the roof :eek: so I am going to take every percaution I can just in case my do have some spring left

 

[models916]

JC Whitney

I got these mail order from J.C. Whitney and work like a charm. Internal compressor works with a wrench or impact and can stay inside the spring until fully installed. Will come out the shock opening in the lower controll arm. Ball joint remover or tie rod remover works by seperating the parts with pressure on the tip of the taper shaft. No hammer or damage to the parts or the boots. Slip it inbetween and turn the wrench and it snaps apart.

 

[mac1]

I took my springs to a local spring shop years ago and had them compress and band them. I just put them in, cut the bands and "wang", it was done. Mac

 

[de31168]

I found in other info that some of the older ball joint assemblies are rivited in, mine are, and you have to grind off the rivits and replace the whole unit.
My 1958 shop book and 1960 suppliment book came in yesterday as well so I got some reading materials now as well.

I seen a spring pop out of a strut before and the hole it left in the roof :eek: so I am going to take every percaution I can just in case my do have some spring left

Actually if you have a sharp chisel you can knock the heads of the rivets off with relative ease. Also a spring on a strut that you'd find in a newer vehicle is under WAY more tension than the ones you'll find in your car, but they are still dangerous.