I'll make a deal with you, I'll trade you two 348-409 coffee mugs for the kit. Rebuilding the pump yourself really isn't that hard, the advantage of having me do it is for one thing you get a lifetime warranty, plus for someone like yourself, I would replace the screws with new period correct ones. There are other little things that I do to a pump that insures that it will last for a long time.
Here's a little something that I run into quite a bit. When a customer gets their pump back, installs it on the engine, and all of a sudden the carburetor starts flooding, they instantly blame the pump saying I did something wrong because it puts out too much pressure now. What they failed to do was clean out the fuel lines before installing the fresh pump, and any dirt that may have been trapped somewhere in the system, particularly in the line that connects from the frame to the pump, has become dislodged and is now sitting in the needle and seat of the carburetor causing the flooding. Fuel pressure on a pump is controlled by the spring under the diaphragm only, and in most cases, I re-use the original spring as long as it measures the correct tension on my tester. The little spring that you see under the arm is only there to keep tension on the arm and keep the arm from slapping on the cam which would produce a ticking sound like a bad lifter.
And that completes todays lesson.