Got some sun today

Tic's60

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
The rain stopped and yup I ran not walked to the shop and took her for a little spin Had to get some fuel since these Carters seem to be pretty hungery

Here's some pics for you enjoyment.

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Ok now a plea for some dual Carter AFB 625 help. First I know it's a tunnel ram and it won't ever really be clean and crisp as a single 4 would BUT this is a street ram with 2500-7000 rpm range so it should work ok. Plus it looks damm good
I have pretty low vacuum with the large duration camshaft so I swapped out the step up springs to the lightest ones there are to keep the metering rods in the hole and that helped but I think I need to put in larger metering rods to lean it out more. Running way to rich and loads up after a bit and spits some nasty black smoke out.

Here are my settings:
1. Fuel pressure at 5psi
2. 3HG step up springs - not sure of the metering rod size yet
3. 1 turn on the A/F on all carbs idle screw about 3/4 in after touching
4. Carter AFB's 625 Compition Plus no choke
5. One to one linkage since my tunnel has seperate runners front and rear.
6. Mallory at 16 degrees at 1100RPM goes total at 2800 to 32 degrees I belive.

If I missed something please yell at me
 

Fathead Racing

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 7
Where is the curb idle screw set? You are probably out of the idle circut (throttle blades cracked open too far at idle) and are in to the off idle circut or the high speed circut. You can try and should be at 20/21 dgs advance at idle. This will help your idle and you should be able to turn the curb idle screws down and close the throttle blades a little tighter. This will get you into the idle circut and will lean it out. For a trial , forget about reving the engine this is for idle test only. set the initial timing at 20/25 dgs or even more, this should bring the idle up quite a bit. Now turn the curb idle screws in and see how far you can bring the rpms down. Let it idle for awhile like this and see if it loads up. Good luck.

Regards, Ray.
 

Tic's60

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
seemed to help some. The metering rods are 16-690 or 890?? Kinda hard to read. The indicator says (starting from small end .045 next step .073 then rod size .080
Cannot read the jet size from the top...
 

Fathead Racing

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 7
seemed to help some. The metering rods are 16-690 or 890?? Kinda hard to read. The indicator says (starting from small end .045 next step .073 then rod size .080
Cannot read the jet size from the top...

I might add, as you close the throttle blades and bring the idle down you have to keep an eye on the timing. Keep bumping the timing up to keep it in the 21 dg + range. Goal would be to have the timing at 20+ dgs at less than 1000 rpm at idle. Timing at idle should be as high as you can get it and still be able to start the engine with out too much kickback.
 

Tic's60

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
I can actualy set the A/F to 1 1/2 to 1 1/4 and have the idle screw not touching the cam. Still spews black though.
Also noticed that there is fuel in where the secondary weights are. 5 psi on the gauge so I figure that should not be the problem, floats to high?

Going to pull the plugs and swap the clean set it then go back at it.

As a base line what do the dual AFB on the 409's run?
 

Tic's60

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
After going thru everything with the vendor who built the carbs he is certian it's a somthing stuck in the needle and seat. The fuel pooling around the counter weights is what makes him certian of this.
Must have got something in them! Easy fix though...
 

Nuts

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 10
Cool !!!!

Tic,

Wooow, that thing just looks fast !!!! :cool: :bow Hope you get this fuel thing solved ASAP. I'll bet you had to stop for gas twice, going around the block !!! :roll
 
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