Had some fun some last weekend

Tic's60

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
After finaly getting the headers and pipes all on is was off to the Caldwell Idaho car show then met up with Nuts at the VA show.

Had a 61 Biscayne parked next to me and a 409 62 accross from me.

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Tic's60

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
Had a few comments this weekend about that :) Right now I am driving it all over the place while on a short vacation so I can have some fun.. no changes till winter cause I am done seeing the underside of the car.
I always get the same questions "Why is the carb sideways?" and the latest "How did you get those headers in there?"
To answere 1. I mashed the gas sooo hard 2. two cases of beer, 26 bayer asprin and a torch.

She's fun to drive and now that the cross over pipe was installed this morning it's mellowed out the brrrrr sound. On the way to the show last weekend I kid you not when I say cows ran when it can roaring by.

So I am going to enjoy the last months of warmth and drive all I can... next year comes paint.. pearl white base and teal flames... then little dancer will look sexy!
Plus the new rear might get those wheel dangling at the strip!
But only once!

Then tech will ban me till I upgrade the safety gear...............
 

bignbad60

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Tic, Lookin good....Do you have any pics of exhaust work and cross-over. I'm going to be tackling my Hookers this winter and it might just save me a little frustration.
Tim
 

Tic's60

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
Soon as I get to the shop I'll snap a few pics.

Some things to take into account.

1. If your running an automatic lifes easy and you can use the Headman headers that come out under the frame like the classic 409 ones do.

2. If you a stanadard it's rough. The A arm bolt in the front drivers side will need to be turned or shortened. The Hookers will need to be chopped 2.5" back to really give enough clearance for 3" pipe. The passenger side is longer than the drivers side since they are equal length headers. You could take more out but you should keep them as close to the stock off set as possible. You can also then rotate you collector flange so that the bolt point is not straight twoards the ground. I missed this one myself but the shop noted that one. This gives you an additional 1/2" almost. The tranny mount can be swapped out for a tube one and gain more room. I'll probably swap this out later. The oil filter will barly squeeze by the header so it's messy to change the oil. I redid my clutch system to use the pivot point about 10" twoards the front. Theres only two on a BBC and I was using the rear one with fenderwell headers. The stock 60 z bars inner arm would not work so I built one with 1/4 x 1 moved it in about an inch and drilled holes every 1.5 inches. This makes my arm almost level with the clutch fork. For the rod I use allthread the stock ends with nuts on each side to keep it straight and had to put a slight curve on it to clear one of the header pipes. After I got the angles right I was going re-enforce it with some rod welded on but so far it has not flexed at all.

That's what I did for the supposedly direct swap Hookers.

The plus to the situation

1. I actualy changed spark plugs from the top of the motor, the fenderwells had to be done from underneith the car.

2. The master cylinder is now not next to any pipes so I won't melt one again.

3. The 3" pipe runs right where the stock pipe did and though a tad low sounds good. I use a 2.25 cross over pipe behind the cross member just before where the pipes roll to the outside of the frame. All they do is equal pressure and by the rules you can use a pipe 75% the size of the main pipe. But then again the muffler guys used one inch and it's done the samething. They are nice to have and cannot hurt no matter what size you get in there.

Hope that helps some!

I'll add some pics soon...
 
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