Howdy from AZ

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
If the machine work was done correctly,that's not bad for one of these engines.A typical base 348 will go for 400[low end] to 800 dollars without machine work.I can't compare it to a 396,but you cant,or at least shouldn't attempt 400 hp with the cast pistons that come in those cheaper kits.Buy these parts seperately.Show Cars is likely your best source.A 409 crank will run on average about 400.You can run the stock 409 rod if you can find a set,but an aftermarket set of big block 6.385 rods[about 330.] is a better deal for durability.A good bang for the buck is the KB Icon piston for the 4 inch stroker engines,but used with the above 409 crank and 6.385 rod.The cam that I listed eairler will go for 200.That leaves you with heads,tin,intake and such.The 333 head,if you can do your own port work will be the cheapest,but will need bigger valves installed.That intake that the guy has with this block,if it's what I think it most likely is,is worthless for your needs.If you can do your own assembly you should be able to put together a 375-400 horse 380 incher,fully balanced and blueprinted ,for a little less than 7000.Not exactly cheap,but such ids the cost of being different.As to gearing,these engines are torque motors,so if you're going for road miles,the 3.54 would be best,if you're going to run an overdrive automatic overdrive,the 3.73 would be the best of both worlds.
 

MChance

Member
Sounds like solid advice. It's sounds like these motors are a lot like BBC's as far as gearing and tranny likes. etc. Just cost more to build.
That motor I found was the block only with intake, to me the intake is scrap. I'm a put a Edelbrock on it, or let's go all the way and do a dual quad type of guy.
I thought a grand for a block was on the high end, Maybe not including the rarity of a block. I sold a 961 casting 396 for more than that.
 

Tom Kochtanek

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 13
That "011" 348 block is worth around $300 - $500 bare then add the cost to bore (approx. $300) the cost of main bearings ($200) and cam bearings ($100) and you get pretty close to $1K. Assuming the machine work is done correctly you are in the ball park. It all starts with a solid bottom end, but then you know that :).

The sound of a "W" is a bit different than that of the BBC (or the SBC for that matter) and I think you'll like it!

TomK
 

MChance

Member
Thanks Tom. I guess it's probably a decent deal. If I was convinced or was provided with more of a it was done last year at such and such shop, here are the receipts. instead of... a few years ago "how many 3 or 10?" and he doesnt remember the shops name but it was a auto parts store/machine shop...to me it sounds like a Napa but I've known some killer old timer machinist at Napa. (not remembering a shops name to me sounds like he installed the bearings himself, got the block from someone else, or it was a hella long time ago)
I think it's time to pass unless he will drop his price or I can take it to my local machinists and have it inspected.
 

MChance

Member
I found a truck 348 today seller has no idea what year. He said it's froze up, said heads were bad and threw away. Nothing else is missing $350
I've never dealt with a froze up motor before. Is it worth checking out.
 

Tom Kochtanek

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 13
Easy to tell which year if you have an up close picture or first hand view. Have him check the casting numbers on the rear flange, that will tell you a lot.

Pistons are likely cast, and they can be hard to remove or cause damage doing so. Sometimes you get lucky and after soaking the bores with penetrating oil things come apart. Other times you get damaged bores, and the cost to sleeve is around $150 - $200 per hole, which can add up quickly. Generally the investment to sleeve a 348 block doesn't have a good return.

You should be able to locate a suitable 348 block that has been stripped and crack checked for under $500. Hopefully there isn't shipping involved.
Cost to have a shop clean/bake/crack check a block is around $100. You might offer to pay that shop fee up front, take it to your choice of machine shops, and have it cleaned and evaluated. If it's good then you can consider value from that evaluation.

Remember this is just my 2 cents :).

TomK
 

63impalass409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Also you got to pay close attention to the outside part of the block just below the deck line as these Damm things like to crack right there and it will run horizontal above motor mount and below head deck!! Ask me how I know when I bought a froze up 348 with exhaust manifolds on it so it was hard to see. 800$ worth of junk I brought home.
 

Tom Kochtanek

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 13
I have done the same, brought home damaged parts that were not able to be properly examined onsite, but my first one was only $100. Still have it as a "remembrance" of how not to proceed...

Often times you are in the middle of what appears to be good deal and you just have to take that risk. The fun part is when you clean them up and upon further investigation find a gem, that makes it all worthwhile :).

Then there are times when things don't turn out so well. Two years ago I purchased a 409 block in a garage in KC over the phone sight unseen for $200. My son picked it up and stored it for a week until I came out to pick it up. To my surprise it was a 422 block with a "QB" stamping (from a 425 horse setup)!!! Then I measured the bores (.100 over) and found out I had purchased an expensive 8 bottle wine rack :) :) :).

Win some, lose some!

TomK
 
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