HP Guesstimate

[mabeauchamp]

Well folks I'm pretty pumped. Just finished ordering the parts for my rebuild. I'm hoping by the end of the summer I'll have it running. Thanks to everyone who helped me decide on the best parts available and way to go for my 63 QG motor. Here's what I ended up going with:

10.5/1 ROSS PSTNS with moly rings
ROLLER TIMING CHAIN SET
isky hyd 286 (.510) cam
isky hyd lifters
58-65 HI VOLUME OIL PUMP, drive and pick up
SS VALVE SET POLISHED
VALVE SPRINGS OD-1.430, ID-1.035, COIL BIND AT 1.080
Valve spring RETAINERs
CH MOLY PUSH ROD SET
SCORPION 3/8 1.75 ROCKER ARMS
ARP 3/8 SCREW IN ROCKER ARM STUDS, O.L. 2.650 ROCKER ARM, END 1.925 HAS TRUE FLAT END FOR POLYLOCK
INT BRASS VLV GUIDE
EXH BRASS VLV GUIDE
BRASS EXPANSION PLUG SET
New bearings

I plan on running a 750 cfm edelbrock 4 barrel on stock 340hp intake and stock manifolds initially with M20 muncie and 3.70 posi. Upgraded distributer with unilite. (Topping off with moon valve covers, haven't decided on air cleaner yet. Everyon knows these items have a lot to do with HP.) Can anyone tell I haven't been this excited since I was a kid waiting for Christmas morning?

Anyone want to hazard any guesses on crack and rear wheel horsepower. How about 1/4 and 1/8 times in a fairly stock 62 impala ss. I'm thinking 485 hp with 11 seconds quarter. Seriously, how's 370-385 crank hp with high 13s? Anyone got any experience with a similar set-up?

 

[Garbageman]

Mabeauchamp, it sounds like you are running the same ingredients that I am. The main difference is that I'm running an Offy low rise quad intake with a pair of Carter 600's on top. My engine is .10 over, not a huge difference.
My car is a fairly stock 62 SS, with a Muncie M22 and a ****nine inch with 4.10 butt gears. The shop that built the engine "estimates" 400HP at the flywheel. I don't know for sure what the hp is but I do know that I just ran a 13.06 in the 1/4 at 105 mph.

I'm sure your car should be in the low 13's as well. Good luck with the build.

Paul

 

[Bubbletop Bel-Air]

You may want to rethink your plan to use a high volume oil pump. The oil return on these motors is very poor, and you can run the pan low by pumping oil up in the heads faster than it can return. All Chevrolets have very good factory oil systems, food for thought.

 

[29Coupe348]

You may want to rethink your plan to use a high volume oil pump. The oil return on these motors is very poor, and you can run the pan low by pumping oil up in the heads faster than it can return. All Chevrolets have very good factory oil systems, food for thought.

thats exactly what curt harvey told me.

 

[dq409]

I don't know for sure what the hp is but I do know that I just ran a 13.06 in the 1/4 at 105 mph.

Paul

AAAAAHHHWWWWWWW

PAUL ,,,, you did it again !!!!! You didn`t call ,,,,
When did you run ????

I`m going to have to have a talk with Sandy about this,,,,,,dq

 

[mabeauchamp]

Thanks for the info. You've got me a bit worried on the high volume pump. I went back and forth on this one. The threads seem to go both ways. Some say its a benefit and others say NO. The high volume pump that I ordered from showcars produces 36-55 psi versus the 25-40. Will that be an issue? Does this condition only apply to the 817 low perf heads?

By the way, Garbageman, thanks for the info of ETs. I hope to switch to a 2x4 set-up once my wallet recovers from the cost of the parts.

 

[Impalaguru]

I would go with a stock pump, as well. I once pumped an oil pan dry with HV pump and the result was a trip to the machine shop and a new crank.
Ross

 

[Garbageman]

Sorry I didn't call dq. It was the spur of the moment think. I do plan on going out April 30 for the test and tune. Steve might also be there. May 14 is the Battle of Detroit and we all will be there. I call you soon.
Paull

 

[models916]

keep the pump

I always use a high vol. pump on my street engines, but change the pressure with a stock relief spring. If all the clearances are correct you won't have excess oil problems. The only concern is oil in the head and valley for which the standard pressure spring addresses. Excess bearing clearance in the main, rod, and rod side clearance is addressed by the high volume gears in the pump and not a concern in drainback to the pan. High volume pump will assure good oil supply to the rotating assembly and cool the main and rod surfaces better than standard pump. If you have a bone stock engine go ahead and use a stock pump. If it is modified, like added spring pressure or hyd cam, I would use the added volume pump at lower pressure.
Just my thoughts on it.

 

[Ronnie Russell]

Optional spring is "white". Comes in the box, but most people overlook it. models916 is dead on the mark. This spring reduces pressure to std., but still puts out the extra volume. I have seen high pressure spring pump blow front and rear intake seals out of several engines,, White spring solves the problem. I am referring to Mellings pump, cant attest to other brands.

 

[Va348]

I Do Racing eng. for a living, I would not use a Hi Volume.

I all ways use the 69 Z-28 Pump Stock Volume 55-60 psi , or order A spring from

GM part #3848907 to put in stock pump the z 28 allready has it.


Hope it helps.

Dale

 

[models916]

same pump

69 Z28 pump is the same impeller height and spring and a Mellings Hi-Vol. Both bigger than the 348/409 standard pump.

 

[models916]

oil to the cam

Not sure I would restrict oil to the top on anything but a solid roller cam. Anybody got thoughts on this. The motor at the start of the link is Hyd. Anyone tried this on a flat tappet cam and roller rockers? SBC/BBC restrictors are pretty small .065 in think?

 

[Fathead Racing]

High Pressure?

I want to know how a high pressure oil pump can "blow" the oil seals out of the front and rear of the intake manifold? : I am pretty sure that Smokey Yunick tested a high voulme oil pump with an engine equipped with see through valve covers and found that the therory of pumping the pan dry did not hold water.

 

[Mr Goodwrench]

I agree fat makes no sense to me????

 

[Ronnie Russell]

Ray , maybe I shouldnt have used the word "blow" to describe the condition. I use quality silicone like most people. All I can say is that with high pressure pump , after high rpms, MY front and rear seals leak. Maybe there is a lot more going on under the intake with added pressure. Driver says that when he takes his foot off the gas through the lights , that oil pressure drops for a couple of seconds. That is with Stephs pan. Is it emptying pan? I dont know, seems logical though. I wouldnt want to use this set-up for 1/4 mi. though.(we run 1/8) ..

 

[models916]

Oil drain back

Drain back bad enough and volume and pressure high enough to fill lifter valley with high pressure oil and blow out end seals. I haven't seen this happen for years. It was on a 68 302 road race car. Considering the upper drain back on W engines thru the slots above the spinning cam, I can see this happening with too much pressure (over 70psi maybe)? Anybody see this on a drag car?

 

[models916]

solved problem

Just a side note. The guy with the 302 solved the problem for just that day with pipe cleaners (you know, the fuzzy wire things) in the pushrods. He used oil restrictors for the remainder of the season.

 

[Va348]

No the Z-28 pump is std SM BLock with the 55-60 Spring it is not HV ,or does it have more teeth on gear or longer gear. Std sb melling part# 55 , Z-28 55 A



Dale

 

[models916]

more on pumps

Ok, the Chevy Z28 pump is std vol and higher pressure. Now my question is why would you want higher pressure without the volume to back it up? If main, rod and side clearance is set on the loose side, this would seem to be a bad thing as the pump could never get up to pressure. I can see it working on a tight, new engine, not a clearanced hot rod. How does it work out?