Hurst shifter tabs
- Thread starter jeff hall
- Start date
Original Hurst shifters Sold over the counter have numbers stamped into the round rods and the rectangular arms that bolt to the studs on the transmission. What are the numbers on your rods and arms ?
I assume have a Borg Warner 4 speed. In reading your comment you do not have the rectangular arms with round holes on both ends of each arm? No the original shifter arms will not work on a Hurst shifter.
The Hurst arms and rods are matched to specific years of Borg Warner or Muncie 4 speeds - if you do not have the right rods and arms that use plastic or metal washers on the rods to fit into the arm holes, the shifter will not work.
I have Hurst catalog for all the late 50’s & 60’s Shifters matched to the GM cars.
Hurst Competition Plus Shifters were the correct shifter for these cars with Borg Warner 4 speeds and Muncie 4 speeds
there is also a line up pin on all Hurst shifters for adjusting the rods in neutral and when the arms are in a gear.
Paul
I assume have a Borg Warner 4 speed. In reading your comment you do not have the rectangular arms with round holes on both ends of each arm? No the original shifter arms will not work on a Hurst shifter.
The Hurst arms and rods are matched to specific years of Borg Warner or Muncie 4 speeds - if you do not have the right rods and arms that use plastic or metal washers on the rods to fit into the arm holes, the shifter will not work.
I have Hurst catalog for all the late 50’s & 60’s Shifters matched to the GM cars.
Hurst Competition Plus Shifters were the correct shifter for these cars with Borg Warner 4 speeds and Muncie 4 speeds
there is also a line up pin on all Hurst shifters for adjusting the rods in neutral and when the arms are in a gear.
Paul
Paul is right that hurst shifter tabs have larger holes to accommodate the bushings typically they were plastic and the metal ones were the ones that came in a pit pack for racing use.The hurst rod ends may fit snugly into the stock tabs but they will be metal to metal and will try to bind and wear fairly quick the bushings had a little clearance on the id an od to prevent binding and the metal ones were soft metal so they would wear first.The alignment pin will only fit into the shifter when in the neutral position and adjustment is done when the shifter and all shift levers are in the neutral position and the rod length is adjusted so that the ends just slip into the the levers.He is also correct that all hurst marketed linkage parts and mounting plates will have a hurst part # stamped in them that can be crossed in their catalog.Installation kit parts (linkage and mount plates) supplied as part of an OEM installation may or may not have a hurst # stamped into them,in these cases identifying them can be a little more complicated,hopefully they will have a GM number stamped in them that can be referenced.OEM installations frequently used levers that had a rubber bushing molded into them,and there was a document (I can't remember if it was a TSB or a hurst service bulletin)that described a procedure for cutting off a worn molded rubber bushing and replacing it with a plastic bushing similar to what the non OEM used but I don't know if it was the same bushing,I think it was but I'm not sure.It is something to be aware of when trying to identify them.
A 58-59 Borg Warner 4 speed - cast iron Case I think
needs these Hurst competition Plus 4 speed shifter - Round rod #’s & rectangular arms
needs Hurst mounting plate for the shifter #1957773
round rods
1 & 2 gear - 2144
3 & 4 gear - 2145
reverse - 2146
Arms
arm 1 & 2 Gear - 2140
arm 3 & 4 Gear - 2141
reverse - 1670
1960 to (early)1963 Borg Warner 4 speed ( aluminum transmissions I think)
has different numbers - needs a Hurst mounting plate #1957773
round rods
1 & 2 gear - 2138
3 & 4 gear - 2139
reverse - 3404
arms
1 & 2 gear - 2140
3 & 4 gear - 2141
reverse - 2142
Paul
needs these Hurst competition Plus 4 speed shifter - Round rod #’s & rectangular arms
needs Hurst mounting plate for the shifter #1957773
round rods
1 & 2 gear - 2144
3 & 4 gear - 2145
reverse - 2146
Arms
arm 1 & 2 Gear - 2140
arm 3 & 4 Gear - 2141
reverse - 1670
1960 to (early)1963 Borg Warner 4 speed ( aluminum transmissions I think)
has different numbers - needs a Hurst mounting plate #1957773
round rods
1 & 2 gear - 2138
3 & 4 gear - 2139
reverse - 3404
arms
1 & 2 gear - 2140
3 & 4 gear - 2141
reverse - 2142
Paul
It will be worth the effort to get the right stuff and get it dialed in, a properly installed and adjusted hurst shifter changes the driving experience.I remember the first time my wife drove my starliner,she saw the big hurst in there and having never driven a stick older than a late 70's small car with the little integral shifters she was intimidated,but when she got done she was impressed at how easy it was to drive.
early Borg Warners are famous for jumping out of gear when you let up on the power. I had one that would jump out of 2nd gear when you let up on it. I had Wayne Euper a famous excellent BW and Muncie transmission builder(that many here knew) rebuild it and it still jumped out of 2nd gear.
Another point is the Shift Doctor link is the one I use for missing Hurst Shifter parts.
I would caution you that some of the new Hurst arms and rods do not come with the correct stamped part numbers. I think its something to do with the Hurst patent has expired - and whom ever is making the correct Hurst arms and rods does not stamp the part numbers on them.
The point is that if you get new arms and rods without numbers stamped into them mark them somehow so you do not get them mixed up during installation There is also a set of installation instructions from Hurst that match your transmission -to help with installation - I have copies of the BW ones from 60-63.
427John is right once properly installed Hurst Competition Plus 4 speed shifting cars really drive nice as compared to a original 4 speed shifter.
Paul
I remember someone I knew had trouble with a trans that wanted to pop out of gear and I seem to remember that he found the problem to be a burr on either the trans mounting surface of the bell or the face of the trans that prevented it from seating completely on one side when the bolts were tightened,the slight misalignment caused the input shaft and mainshaft engagement to not be a straight line anymore and it kind of side loaded the gears and prevented the slider from engaging fully so that it would pop out of gear under power and on coast,it caused the needle bearing between the input and mainshaft to be noisy too,luckily he caught it before it did major damage.You may want to inspect for a small gap on 1 side or the other before you pull the trans.
