Mechanical Tri power linkage - recomendations

[neilswheels]

I'm looking for a progressive mechanical linkage for my tri power. I was going to go with one from Vintage Speed, but to say that he doesnt have a good reputation is an understatement.

vintage speed

i got my 2x2 adapter from vintage speed along with a fuel block...and i gotta say i'm not happy.almost all of the holes were either drilled wrong or...

www.jalopyjournal.com

I have bought a linkage from show cars, but i cant get it to fit at all, let alone work, so looking for something else, what are people using? I dont have any of the factory stuff.

 

[neilswheels]

Is the Ecklers linkage any good?

https://www.yumpu.com/en/document/view/50013295/1958-61-348-tri-power-progressive-linkage-ecklers-late-great-chevy

 

[neilswheels]

..and does anyone know who Realrodder is on ebay? He's selling Charlie Price/Vintage speed linkages and has 100% feedback..

 

[scott hall]

Might have to zoom in. This is what we use. It works well. A local guy makes them. I can check to see if he still has them.

 

[Mr. Chev]

I got the one from showcars as well, there were no instructions and took me a while to figure out but did manage.

 

[La Hot Rods]

Do you have tri-power carburetors?

 

[Mr. Chev]

 

[Mr. Chev]

If you enlarge you can sort of make it out

 

[W Head]

I'm looking for a progressive mechanical linkage for my tri power. I was going to go with one from Vintage Speed, but to say that he doesnt have a good reputation is an understatement.

vintage speed

i got my 2x2 adapter from vintage speed along with a fuel block...and i gotta say i'm not happy.almost all of the holes were either drilled wrong or...

www.jalopyjournal.com

I have bought a linkage from show cars, but i cant get it to fit at all, let alone work, so looking for something else, what are people using? I dont have any of the factory stuff.

I have purchased many 3 X 2 mechanical linkage from Charlie (Vintage Speed) and no problems. works very well.

 

[iniguy1959]

My suggestion make your own.

 

[La Hot Rods]

This is the linkage I built for a small block.

 

[Lt.FrankDrebin]

Do you have tri-power carburetors?

Good point. The secondary carbs are different than the main central one. Because they have no idle circuits, the throttle butterfly valves need to be 100% sealed when not in use, otherwise, that is a vacuum leak. This has always been a big complaint of 3x2 "tri-power" owners. The secondary carb butterfly valves better look like this when held up to a strong light: Personally, I would acquire the factory vacuum parts. I had mechanical linkage on mine when I first bought the car and it sucked driving because it took so much more pedal effort to engage the two extra carbs. I also believe the secondary carbs like to be either fully closed or fully open. My car now has the factory stock vacuum system (late'58 - '61) and the car drives so much better now.

 

[1958 delivery]

Factory vac parts are like hens teeth

 

[61BUBBLE348]

Neil, when I set up my Tripower, I have the central carb attached to the accelerator, a link for the progressive to the back carb on the LHS, and the link to the 2 outer carbs on the RHS, this works well, I think I got this from Show cars but I felt the Speedway set up was the same,

 

[Jim Sullivan]

We used the Speedway kit. The only issue was, we had to make up a longer threaded rod from the rear carb to the front carb.

 

[oldskydog]

Back in the day (61) we just made our own. I fabbed a rod with a slip joint and cable stop from the center to the front on the drivers side and left the original front to rear link on the pass side, sorry for the poor pic quality , bad camera or bad photographer.

 

[Lt.FrankDrebin]

Factory vac parts are like hens teeth

Not really. Not anymore, anyway. To put together a 100% correct vacuum system as it would have left the factory - yes. But you can have a fully-functioning vacuum system without the factory-correct parts. It's a plus if your car has power brakes because you already have the vacuum reservoir tank and the check valve. The vacuum actuator pod is available new as a replacement. The vacuum slider switch is the hardest to find, but there are some on EBay right now that aren't for Chevy (Pontiac? Olds?), but they'll work. And if you don't have a vacuum reservoir tank, they aren't hard to find. The original metal hose T or Y is extremely hard to find, but you can either make one or find a T somewhere that'll work. I found an original and made a bunch a stainless steel repros a couple years ago. Unless you're going for a 100% correct factory vacuum system, you can find parts to make the vacuum system work. And actually, you can make a vacuum actuator pod out of a vacuum pod found commonly in late-'50s GM cars' heating/ventilation systems. You'll have to remove that small nipple and solder-in the correct size nipple. I've made and sold a bunch of these years ago.

 

[neilswheels]

Thanks all, i'll take a look at the speedway item.

Do you have tri-power carburetors?

I have small base 2g's, front and back modified to suit, no idles etc.

 

[chuckl]

I'm looking for a progressive mechanical linkage for my tri power. I was going to go with one from Vintage Speed, but to say that he doesnt have a good reputation is an understatement.

vintage speed

i got my 2x2 adapter from vintage speed along with a fuel block...and i gotta say i'm not happy.almost all of the holes were either drilled wrong or...

www.jalopyjournal.com

I have bought a linkage from show cars, but i cant get it to fit at all, let alone work, so looking for something else, what are people using? I dont have any of the factory stuff.

I have a warmed up 61 348 with correct Tri-power carbs. I bought the intake and carbs at a swap meet with an installed right hand linkage. The linkage setup is all stainless steel with an "R/P" stamped on all the joints and rods. The carbs had been modified with longer butterfly rods with new bushing and seals. I have no idea who or what "R/P" stands for. No one seems to know that. It is a high quality setup that is smooth, clean and simple. It is very easy to adjust the opening points and the WOT points, with sliding-set rings and springs. Mine are set at about 65% pedal travel to keep my lead foot out of the gas.
To seal the 1 and 3 carbs, loosen the plates, slide the plates to contact and rotate them L & R slightly for a good fit. If there is any light that you see coming through the plates, dress the plates and throat with 1000 grit quality paper and very light oil. Do this with the plates assembled in the throats. Make sure the air coming through the 1 and 3 carbs are NOT coming around the butterfly rods through worn throat bores. At idle, with the 1 and 3 carbs covered, my engine speed/vacuum does not change. Patience is a must! I get around 14/15 MPG normal highway driving if I stay out of 1 and 3.
ChuckL

 

[Lt.FrankDrebin]

I have a warmed up 61 348 with correct Tri-power carbs. I bought the intake and carbs at a swap meet with an installed right hand linkage. The linkage setup is all stainless steel with an "R/P" stamped on all the joints and rods. The carbs had been modified with longer butterfly rods with new bushing and seals. I have no idea who or what "R/P" stands for. No one seems to know that. It is a high quality setup that is smooth, clean and simple. It is very easy to adjust the opening points and the WOT points, with sliding-set rings and springs. Mine are set at about 65% pedal travel to keep my lead foot out of the gas.
To seal the 1 and 3 carbs, loosen the plates, slide the plates to contact and rotate them L & R slightly for a good fit. If there is any light that you see coming through the plates, dress the plates and throat with 1000 grit quality paper and very light oil. Do this with the plates assembled in the throats. Make sure the air coming through the 1 and 3 carbs are NOT coming around the butterfly rods through worn throat bores. At idle, with the 1 and 3 carbs covered, my engine speed/vacuum does not change. Patience is a must! I get around 14/15 MPG normal highway driving if I stay out of 1 and 3.
ChuckL

I believe 'RP' stands for Rochester Products.