mini alternator mounted down low

teetime1023

Member
are the bolt holes down low on 409 same as small block or big block chevy ??????? ( the bolt holes where a normal guy would mount his power steering pump lol) need the help mounting 409 in street rod thanks terry from the great white north alt will be on drivers side
 

petepedlar

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
Here's what you need. The bolt holes are different on a small block. Thanks for the manifold Terry.
Ebay item #
170157669820

Dave
 

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jwhotrod

 
Supporting Member 1
Mounting brackets

I just did this setup for the 409 in a 35 chevy I am building. I got the brackets from Alan Grove as the thumbnail shows above. the holes in the block are 7/16 not 3/8 as they are in a small block. So ask for 409 brackets and it will work out ok. Now what I found was that I did not have enough room to "swing" the alternator becaus of the steering shaft.(mustang II) so I chose to use a serpentine belt to drive the alternator with a tensioner arm I added to the alt mount bracket off an 03 chevy truck motor. Also I added a low mount AC compressor mount on the passenger sie with mounting off the fuel pump mounting bolts (fuel pump goes away) that I also got from Alan Grove, this is a small block item that will put a Sanden 508 compressor on lining up with the 1st and 2nd v belt grooves on the crank pulley. This was modified since the serp belt occupied the first and second v belt spaces. I modifed the mount to move the compressor 3/4" forward into the 3rd belt space. That said, I got the crank and water pump puuleys from Street and Performance, crank pulley is a big block unit with grooved serp belt in 1st and 2nd space and v belt groove in third position, water pump has grooved serp only, and the alternator pulley is also grooved for serp belt. The Sanden compressor has v belt grooves obviously. and you can buy that compressor with the ports going straight back in the rear head so they can runn along the block under the headers. The compressor I am tensioning off a 3/8 head bolt with a S&P chrome turn buckle that I cut dowm that was left over from a different project. I know this is alot of info I will post pictures tonight when I get home. It is pretty clean and it will work well. This was done this way because half the reason for putting an 09 in a car is because it is an '09 and should look like one. This will keep the top of the motor clean and looking like an '09. The other reason for doing this "there is no replacement for displacement, and the need for speed". I am in the chicago area if any of you can yell at me and stop by, id like to meet and share with any of you. More later!!!!!

Big Jim:beerbang
 

jwhotrod

 
Supporting Member 1
Promised pictures and info

OK I went out to my shop and shot the pictures below, also this alternator is the same case, clocking, etc as an 03 chevy truck 5.3l motor that I had setup for single wire 140AMPS. It is not the latest generation of GM alternator but 1 generation back, they tell me the latest will not 1 wire they need the ECM for balance. Anyway the idler arm you will see here is a NAPA 7360 off that same truck motor (AC belt tensioner) and the serp bwlt used here is a goodyear gatorback 4060415 v bely is NAPA38159. As i said before this is a big block crank pulley and 6"dia small block wp pulley and alt pulley I bought from Street and Performance. We shortened the output shaft on the mustangII rack by about 1.5" to let the u joint sit on top of the rack boss directly. It turns out that a corvette steering shaft has a dbl D 670dia X 570 flats and the mustang rack is .650 od so we machined a set of flats on the shaft to match the dbl D in Borgeson corvette D joint and away we went. I hope all of the helps, it surely solved a problem for me!!!!
 

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39chevy

Well Known Member
Try this

I used the old style power steering pump bracket with some 3/8" ID tubing for spacers and mounted mine down low on the drivers side. Check it out.
 

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jwhotrod

 
Supporting Member 1
differences

I used the old style power steering pump bracket with some 3/8" ID tubing for spacers and mounted mine down low on the drivers side. Check it out.

Boy I sure like what you did there, thats cool. I had gone to the serpentine setup due to the 35 frame not giving me enough space to swing the alternator to tension it. The alternator sits with about equal space to block and frame. It just goes to show how little differences in cars make it difficult for people like Alan Grove to make a "universal" adaption. I told him if he could get me "close" I could finish it up, thats all I could expect, just as you did. NOTHING JUST BOLTS IN. The other reason I did what I did was the AC compressor on the other side. If I had gone to full serpentine here it would have required putting 2 idlers up high on the front of the motor which I did not want to do. This setup is clean and effective.

Anyway, its great to see different ideas presented here.

Big Jim:cheers
 

39chevy

Well Known Member
Driver's side vs. Passenger side

Yoknow, I had a little trouble with the steering shaft for the Mustang II rack also. Tried to switch to the passenger side, but it just didn't work as good with the mount. Yeah, I don't have a lot of room to get the belt tight, but it works, and thats what hot-roddin' is all about.
 
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