Motor Mount Issue
- Thread starter Jerry B
- Start date
63impaloligist
Well Known Member
The interlock won't allow the engine lift off the mount bracket attached to the frame if the rubber rots out or rips. That style is what you want. Energy Suspension makes them for our cars in Polyurethane. I have them in the Impala and a set on the shelf for the Biscayne. I can look at the part numbers later at home. Mine have red inserts, but I think they make black ones too.
Yes the interlock or captured style motor mounts use steel pieces that either create a steel interlock or surrounds the rubber part to limit movement in the event the rubber tears or becomes unbonded.In the case of the early chevy style mount if you look at area of the thru bolt you will see a T shaped ear that passes thru a slot that is wider than the body of the T but narrower than the top crossbar of the T,the steel parts of the T and the part that forms the slot creates the interlock.
Yes you don't want the old style[NOS] stuff on anything that's driven much for safety reasons.Those old cars had solid accelerator linkages.not cables[Mopar excluded].When that left mount breaks,the left side rises leaning to the passenger side.This action pulls the throttle open 
.Not fun in traffic,ask how I found out.
.Not fun in traffic,ask how I found out.63impaloligist
Well Known Member
I've had them for quite a few years. Should have grabbed one more set for the 3rd car.
63impaloligist
Well Known Member
Holding up my 327. The third engine these mounts were on. Soon to be on the fourth. I just realized that the engine mount bolts are backwards.
The later GM clamshell type mounts are excellent example of a captured type mount, the frame mounted insulator has a sleeve that the thru bolt passes thru which is surrounded by the rubber insulator which itself is surrounded by a steel strap that forms the bolt holes that mount it to the frame.
From the factory, didn't one bolt come in from the rear, the other from the front? I don't remember which went which way. And after this long, could be wrong.
I had a broken mount on my Nova long ago. I put Moroso muscle interlocking mounts on it. First shift to second and the T pulled through the side tabs.
wristpin
Well Known Member
How did you find outYes you don't want the old style[NOS] stuff on anything that's driven much for safety reasons.Those old cars had solid accelerator linkages.not cables[Mopar excluded].When that left mount breaks,the left side rises leaning to the passenger side.This action pulls the throttle open
?Nearly new 66 Nova[stock but tuned],4 speed in 5;30 afternoon traffic.Rolling from a stop light at light throttle when the thing took off[was in second gear].Thankfully foot was on the clutch.When it jumped I kicked the clutch in and heard and felt a bump from under the hood.It was still under warrenty and they used a big block mount to fix it,I added a chain when I got it back home.The tire size was like 695-14 to hold an L-79,4 speed and 12 bolt posi with 3.55's.On those tires lack of traction was a normal condition.On 7 inch slicks and driven properly it was the 4th. fastest car in town.
Both of mine went in from the front. The service manual said pull full pump to get bolt out on right side. So it must have originally went from the front. It also says you can change the mounts without pulling the exhaust manifolds but I am running 63 425 HP manifolds and had to take the manifolds loose and raise the engine up after pulling the bolt so I could get to the bottom motor mount bolts. If you had stock 62 manifolds you might be able to put the bolt in with the nut to the front and get the bolt out without pulling the fuel pump.
I was thinking that was the one that came in from the back. Too many years ago.Mid 60's is about the time GM came out with the limiting cable kit as part of some TSB or something like that,it wasn't just chevy all their lines were having troubles with motor mounts.I've seen them on chevy's,buick's and old's don't ever remember seeing them on pontiac's but that doesn't mean they didn't use them too I just never saw one myself.
I had a 70 impala with a 400 that would take for ride when the mount was broke, had to drive it easy. But when you hit the open road you would just ride it out. 
Don there was a safety recall in 66 for this and there were brackets mounted to the front of the exhaust manifolds with a pin, there was a steel cable strap with an eye on both ends. Went from the pin around the top A arm suspension bracket and back to the pin. When the mount broke the cable kept it from kicking up.Yes you don't want the old style[NOS] stuff on anything that's driven much for safety reasons.Those old cars had solid accelerator linkages.not cables[Mopar excluded].When that left mount breaks,the left side rises leaning to the passenger side.This action pulls the throttle open
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Just want to update what solution to problem was. Replacing transmission bearings and syncro rings solved the vibration problem.
While I had the trans out decided to address the Hurst shifter boot that I had never been satisfied with. Had tried factory and Hurst but not satisfied. Found a post by Paul about centering the boot over the shifter. Did this and now happy with boot. I also had problems with getting the engine to idle down. Had made some changes to throttle linkage and it helped but not really fixed the problem. Found a post about the linkage bracket on the inside of the firewall. Pulled bracket. Bushings were fine but a fair amount of corrosion on rod. Cleaned it all up and put a little white grease on it. Solved idle problem. Next came valve cover gasket leak. Had used Fel Pro rubber ones before. The cork worked on the driver’s side but not passenger side. Looked through a lot of post about valve cover leaks. Found my valve cover would rock about 1/16 inch between the upper front bolt and the lower back bolt. Leakage was at the back lower bolt. Looked through a lot of post about valve cover gaskets. Tried several things. Final solution was to put Fel Pro gasket on bottom, steel valve cover spacer that I already had next, and 3M weather strip adhesived an Edelbrock gasket to the valve cover. Torqued rear 2 bolts first. All torqued to 20 inch pounds.
So what is the point of all this rambling?
First, when you post advice about a problem, you have no idea how many people put it to good use. I solved several issue without ever posting a question. So all you guys that post replies please keep doing.
Second, usually if you post a question you are probably going to get multiple suggestions for a possible fix. Please post what the solution was. Might save someone else time and money.
Last, if you posted a possible fix for any of the problems I had, THANKS. I probably read it.
While I had the trans out decided to address the Hurst shifter boot that I had never been satisfied with. Had tried factory and Hurst but not satisfied. Found a post by Paul about centering the boot over the shifter. Did this and now happy with boot. I also had problems with getting the engine to idle down. Had made some changes to throttle linkage and it helped but not really fixed the problem. Found a post about the linkage bracket on the inside of the firewall. Pulled bracket. Bushings were fine but a fair amount of corrosion on rod. Cleaned it all up and put a little white grease on it. Solved idle problem. Next came valve cover gasket leak. Had used Fel Pro rubber ones before. The cork worked on the driver’s side but not passenger side. Looked through a lot of post about valve cover leaks. Found my valve cover would rock about 1/16 inch between the upper front bolt and the lower back bolt. Leakage was at the back lower bolt. Looked through a lot of post about valve cover gaskets. Tried several things. Final solution was to put Fel Pro gasket on bottom, steel valve cover spacer that I already had next, and 3M weather strip adhesived an Edelbrock gasket to the valve cover. Torqued rear 2 bolts first. All torqued to 20 inch pounds.
So what is the point of all this rambling?
First, when you post advice about a problem, you have no idea how many people put it to good use. I solved several issue without ever posting a question. So all you guys that post replies please keep doing.
Second, usually if you post a question you are probably going to get multiple suggestions for a possible fix. Please post what the solution was. Might save someone else time and money.
Last, if you posted a possible fix for any of the problems I had, THANKS. I probably read it.