Need advice from body and paint guys

[wally409]

I've committed myself to getting my bubbletop ready for next year's car show events by doing a body-on refurbish (It's been frame-off once).
I plan on changing the color from white to red and want it laser-straight. I've seen on shows like Powerblock and others that go through restorations and they completely cover vehicle with bondo and sand it down to no more than a sixteenth of an inch. This seems like a lot of work but if that's the standard to shoot for, then I'll do it.
My main question is: Can I achieve the same result with a couple of coats of heavy two-part primer and then block sand? (The body is basically very straight and I think that primer might finish it off) Any recommendations or suggestions that will help me make it perfectly straight?
Also, what's the biggest sanding block can I buy? And from whom?
I appreciate your input and my thanks. Wally

 

[61BISCAYNE]

I used the Durablock sanding blocks and was very satisfied with them.
They are basically a stiff foam, yet flexible enough to conform to slight contour.
They use adhesive-backed paper available at any auto body supply house.
I highly recommend using these blocks!

http://www.eastwood.com/dura-block-long-board-3-pc-kit.html

I just got my Biscayne painted last fall after spending the previous 15 months
doing all the body-work myself. I did use a skim coat of glazing putty
on all the panels, even the very straight ones. I believe it actually saved time.
I used spray-on guide coat when sanding the glaze, and tried to get it near perfect.
Then I followed with two or three coats of high build primer, guide-coating
and blocking between each coat.
Then I applied one last coat of high-build primer before my final wet-sand, again using guide-coat.
The whole secret is BLOCK, BLOCK, BLOCK, AND REBLOCK. It all pays off in the end.
You will be surprised how imperfect a seemingly mint original panel really is.
I applaud your ambition, but unless you have lots of time to devote to the project,
completion by next spring could be a little bit optimistic. This especially
holds true for a color change, considering removing the doors etc to paint all the jambs.
If you exercise lots of patience and don't get in a hurry, you can get fabulous results.
Good luck....and don't forget to post pics.
Danny

 

[wally409]

Thanks Danny - really appreciate this. I know that most of the next few months will be nothing more than block sanding and I'm ready for that. I've already posted this intention on the fridge for my wife to read each morning when she goes for her OJ.
I may have to re-visit my thoughts of changing color - that'll happen down the road. The front
Can I use ordinary black spray paint to look for any imperfections or can you recommend a specific type of spray to use?
I've attached three photos of the project (I'll have to find another place to store the band's sound equipment)
Thanks, wally

 

[61BISCAYNE]

I used this. It dries almost instantly, and it is not too expensive.
Two cans did my whole car. But, yes, black spray will work,
it is just not as quick.

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/sem38203.html

 

[wally409]

Perfect! I'll get some. Also, with the front clip off already and all the front sheet metal is excellent shape, perhaps I will go with the color change. The only thing left to do would be to remove the doors but that wouldn't be done until the body has been straightened.
We'll see how much time will be left over. Thanks again. Wally

 

[wally409]

Hey Danny - question: did you ever use an air-powered sanding board? Or are they too deadly for an amateur? I have an industrial air compressor. Please let me know.
Thanks, Wally

 

[Tom Kochtanek]

Across the gaps

I painted my fenders and doors and trunk lid separately, then fit them up after finishing them. I'll never do that again! Using this approach you don't get to work your long boarding across the gaps between the doors and fenders, etc. I suspect the pros prime those pieces first, then assemble and align, then work the leveling of the panels while in place. My car was white so it doesn't look all that bad for a driver. I suspect a darker color would really look awful.

Next time I plan to block across the gaps with the panels in place.

What colors are you thinking of changing to?

Good luck with your project!

TomK

 

[MileHiSS]

I spent five months doing body work and blocking my 62. Every time I thought I had it straight enough to shoot, I would call a friend who paints hot rods for a living. Without even looking at it, he would tell me to prime it and block it one more time. I finally got to shoot it, and my car is straight, but I don't think I'll ever paint another one black.

Everything you have heard is true. good luck.

 

[61BISCAYNE]

Hey Danny - question: did you ever use an air-powered sanding board? Or are they too deadly for an amateur? I have an industrial air compressor. Please let me know.
Thanks, Wally

I think I would leave the air-sander parked out of sight unless
I were roughing in areas with significant damage.
Personally, I think you could easily do more harm than good
with the power sanders....at least in the final stages.
Danny

 

[61BISCAYNE]

These pictures have been posted on another thread,
but they do kinda show the results I was able to achieve.

 

[61BISCAYNE]

Oops! Forgot the attachments.
Danny