Need advice on window sealant

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b-d409

Well Known Member
Ok guys, I could use a little help.

The rear window on my 62 was leaking. I ordered the new seal, pulled the window, cleaned the track out, cleaned the glass, all went good. I called around and found an automotive glass place that was familiar with older cars and hired them for the reinstall. All went well as far as no broken glass or messed up trim, but when I hit it with the hose today, it leaked like a screen door.

I've pulled the trim back off to see what gives. They had used (don't know what kind or brand) black sealant between the glass and rubber, and between the rubber and the body. It seems like it should of been water tight. When I pushed on the sealant to see how the water was getting by it, it moved. One good tug and I was able to pull the sealant out like a rope from darn near the whole perimeter of the window. It hadn't bonded to the glass or rubber anywhere. I've removed all of it from glass to rubber, and rubber to body. Blew it all out, and dried everything.

Now I sit with a window thats installed, but I need something to seal it all up with. Any ideas as to what will create a good bond between the glass and the rubber seal, and the rubber seal and the body? I figure it should be something that stays somewhat pliable and doesn't full cure. Maybe I'm wrong on that. Any one that knows what the right stuff is to use?

Thanks for any help. Dan
 
bobs409

bobs409

 
Administrator
Dan,

I started using "rope caulking" that is available in home centers/hardware stores. It's a white substance that you peel off the roll and press into place. It resembles the body caulking used on these cars. It remains flexable.

When I removed the rear window chrome from my '63 years ago, it had body caulking filling this void. The rope caulking is the closest thing I could find to it.

You can get this stuff for $2.00-2.50 a roll. It will be with the winter insulation products. (some stores might put these seasonal things away for the winter so might be a bit tough to find at this time of year in all stores. Walmart being one of them)


Bob


P.S. I started using this stuff to fill the void on ALL my cars rear windows. Press in place and push the chrome trim into place. No more water laying in the channel to rot out the corners on my Chevelles! If the general had done this when he built them, there would be no rotted rear window corners! :cuss
 
Fathead Racing

Fathead Racing

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 7
Sounds like to me that the shop dropped the ball on that one! When the rubber is molded the manufactuer uses a product that allows the rubber to be removed from the mold without sticking, this is called "Mold release" unless you remove the mold release from the rubber nothing will stick to it. Clean the rubber with a degreaser or paint thinner, that should do the trick.
 
B

b-d409

Well Known Member
Bob,

Thanks for the input. I'll take a look into it.

Ray,

That makes perfect sense as far as the rubber end goes. They sealant they used didn't stick to the body or glass either. Neither of them would have mold release on them though. Only reason I ask is: since the window in installed, I'd have to pull it to clean the rubber. Don't really want to do that. I will if I have to though.

Thanks guys, Dan
 
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b-d409

Well Known Member
MileHiSS,

I just purchased the 3M bedding and glazing compound a couple of days ago. I wasn't aware of the other products. Do you think I should have gone with one of them instead?

Thanks, Dan
 
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b-d409

Well Known Member
Well I'm happy to say that the window is all sealed up - no leaks. :brow Although it's some really messy stuff, the bedding and glazing compound from 3M works good. Got it done this afternoon, and the old Chev's back together. Can't put to words how happy I am about that. Hitting a car show tomorrow to reep the rewards of all the hard work.
 
Tom Kochtanek

Tom Kochtanek

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 13
Good to hear!

Dan:

Sorry, been away for the past few weeks and not checking in very often. Glad to hear that you got it right the second time around!

It must be hard to find somebody with experience in placing these parts together. I was lucky in that the guy who finally "coached" me also supplied the black goo, but didn't want to be part of the process (more of a liability thing, in the case that it leaked). Not sure what it was, but I suspect it's a pretty common product available to these guys. Glad the 3M stuff worked, their products are generally good so long as you follow the labels. Good call by Fatride on the mold release!

I hope my next time goes as well as yours :).

Have fun at the show!

Best,
TomK
 
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