Do you have a picture of your timing tab?
New Rebuild Start Up Procedures/Input needed
- Thread starter Iowa409
- Start date
Yes I can easily take a picture of that, I have been struggling with how to add pics in posts is there a easy way to do that?
Make sure to mount your radiator higher than the engine, otherwise purging all the air out will be difficult. The radiator cap should be the highest point of the cooling system. As far as your timing is concerned, make sure to disconnect your vacuum advance when breaking in the cam, that way it will not interfere with your timing. If the motor does overheat shut the motor down and let cool. Once it has cooled for an hour or so, restart your break in procedure. If you have to stop for any reason, go ahead, but remember to get your 20 minutes in. I have had to stop half way through a few times due to leaks, overheating,etc... and never lost a cam.
MRHP those are some darn good points there and ones I will pay very close attention to.
I still do not know I guess the range I do not want it to go over, or at one point I should abandon the break in and shut down?
due to Temps over? _________?
I guess that leads me to the question, the radiator has an overflow port, so do I need to block that off, or let it run out to the ground or hook up my overflow tank also?
I mean 212 F is boiling, so I am guessing not over 200 F?
I still do not know I guess the range I do not want it to go over, or at one point I should abandon the break in and shut down?
due to Temps over? _________?
I guess that leads me to the question, the radiator has an overflow port, so do I need to block that off, or let it run out to the ground or hook up my overflow tank also?
I mean 212 F is boiling, so I am guessing not over 200 F?
Junky
Well Known Member
212 is boiling point at sea level. Lets assume that you are at sea level, and you have a 15 pound cap on the radiator. For each pound of pressure, you increase the boiling point by 3 degrees. 15 x 3 = 45 + 212 = 257 degrees boiling point. I like to have a 10% safety factor, so 10% of 257 is 25.7, so lets call that 25. 257 - 25 = 232 is where you want to start to cooling down the radiator with cold water spray, or increasing the fans. You definitely want to have an overflow tank on the system, to keep the engine from ingesting air when you shut it down and the cooling system cools to room temperature.
Junky
Well Known Member
Why shut it down, instead of cooling the radiator? If everything is going along smoothly, why not finish the break in?
One thing that puzzles me, is the shop that built my 327, installed Valvoline racing oil 10w-30, and a pint of Lucas ZDDP, and said that is what they recommended for break in oil. I was on the "blueprint engine" website, and they recommend using a straight 30 weight oil for the first 500 miles. I have asked some engine rebuilders that I know, which is correct, and they almost universally say, "what your engine builder suggests", not wanting to contradict the builder. This leaves me in a quandary, because I also wonder if I should change the oil after the 30 minute break in period, and if so, what oil should I put back into the engine. My engine builder says to keep the original break in oil for the 500 miles, and others say to dump it and replace oil and filter after the 30 minute break in period. The logic for dumping it, is that there is a lot of small metal particles in the oil from the cam break in, that could possibly damage the bearings. Fifty years ago, you just put oil in, and drove the car, varying the speed for the first couple hundred miles, and then beat the crap out of the engine so it wouldn't be dog, and all was good.
I would shut down at 200 only if the temp cant be controlled. I always dump oil and filter after cam break in. I also change oil at 50 miles, and then again at 500 miles. After that, change it when you want to. My program has worked for me for 30 years so I am not going to change it anytime soon as I have never lost a cam. I also usually only do performance engines, and want to give them the best chance for survival. A couple extra oil changes is a drop in the bucket compared to engine failure. I also inspect the oil, and cut the filter for inspection. If I see anything alarming, I can disassemble and repair before it grenades. Just limiting my liability.
One of the main reasons for changing the oil and filter after initial cam break in is because the additives that are in engine assembly[usually Moly] will plug your stock type oil filter in about 30 minutes time.If your distain for oil by passes is like mine,you'll notice a drop in oil pressure,if you're running the by pass,the engine oil will skip the filter.
All good advice, I am a anal retentive kind of person, so my thought was to always change it after the break in period, as said here previously, a oil change is cheap insurance, I do plan to add a additive back in to the new oil change.
Because of the oil industry changing the oil and removing the ZINC, is this something you every-time you change oil or just during break in period.
I like the 200-225 F range myself, but not much higher, I was surprised at the recommendation for the over flow reservoir, but it is the overwhelming consensus of the room to do that, so I will, and it makes sense when broken down in theory by you all.
So in short I am going to set the radiator cap above the engine, run the water pump, cut the middle out of the thermostat and if the temperature starts to climb above 200 F, I am going to up the fan speed and add water to the exterior of the radiator, just to keep it in normal range.
Thank you all again.
Because of the oil industry changing the oil and removing the ZINC, is this something you every-time you change oil or just during break in period.
I like the 200-225 F range myself, but not much higher, I was surprised at the recommendation for the over flow reservoir, but it is the overwhelming consensus of the room to do that, so I will, and it makes sense when broken down in theory by you all.
So in short I am going to set the radiator cap above the engine, run the water pump, cut the middle out of the thermostat and if the temperature starts to climb above 200 F, I am going to up the fan speed and add water to the exterior of the radiator, just to keep it in normal range.
Thank you all again.
Yes Sir thank you, and I do have the flat tappet.
.....Don is absolutely right.....
.....remember oil is a lot cheaper than an engine.........
Easier to change too!
Junky
Well Known Member
Not to belabor the point, or being a dick head, but are you of the opinion that you need to do this if you are using a product that already has a high content of the ZDDP in it, such as the Valvoline Racing oil, or the Blue Print 10W-30 oil? Wouldn't it be safer to purchase a product that is already suited for the intended purpose, then it would be to adding an additive package that might be in conflict with the additive package that the manufactures included with the oil in the bottle?
Description - Break-in Engine Oil
- 1 qt of BluePrint Engines break-in engine oil. Suitable for the first 500-mile break in. SAE 30
- BluePrint Engines Break-In oil is formulated specifically to meet wear and contaminate concerns associated with the break in period of high-performance crate engines. Break-In oil contains high levels of zinc and phosphorus and extends oil film capacity for ultimate protection. BluePrint Engines Break-In oil is an SAE 30 and is designed specifically for the initial break-in period of 500 miles for any new engine. Please refer to BluePrint Engines' Engine Installation Guide or your engine builders? instructions for proper flat tappet break in procedures.
Description - 10W30 Engine Oil
- 1 quart of BluePrint Engines engine oil. Suitable after 500-mile break in. 10W30 weight
- 1 QT. Engine oil formulated specifically to meet wear and contaminate concerns associated with high performance engines. Contains zinc and phosphorus, and extends oil film capacity for ultimate protection. BluePrint Engines 10W30 engine oil is designed specifically for use after the initial break-in period of 500 miles, for the remaining life of the engine.
Valvoline™ VR1 Racing Oil's high zinc provides race-level protection for high performance engines on the race track or the highway. It’s exclusive chemistry is designed to reduce friction and enhance power. It is among the most popular engine lubricants in all types of racing including paved and dirt ovals, and drag racing. Formulated for race engines, but compatible with passenger vehicles too.
Valvoline™ VR1 Racing Oil's high zinc provides race-level protection for high performance engines on the race track and is compatible with passenger vehicles.
- High zinc/phosphorus for anti-wear protection, including push-rod & flat tappet applications
- Formulated to increase horsepower
- Enhanced anti-foam system protects engine during extreme stress
- Recommended for engines burning gasoline and full or partial alcohol fuels
Valid point,Junky.If one is already using either of those oils that you mentioned,as well any of the several "Enhanced" oils out there,then no you don't need the extra additive.In fact you shouldn't for the very reasons about mixing up the additive packages,and due to the fact that too much ZDDP has been detremental to the health of ones engine.We "performance types" will usually be using the enhanced stuff,but a near stock,strictly cruise around guy might just go to a parts place and pick up a modern 10w30 because it's cheaper and more available.In those instances.the additive must be added at each oil change.
In a case where you have bought an engine from a rebuilder that has a warranty,it doesn't matter what is the correct oil to use what matters is that you use the oil they specify because god forbid something goes wrong and you didn't use what they specified then that warranty goes up in the smoke of the blown engine.