Radiator Question- Summit Brand

303Radar

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
#1

1958 delivery

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
#2
Max cooling with alum radiator is 2 rows of 1 1/8" tubes
If their specs are correct that's just a copy of a copper radiator with 4 rows of 5/8" tubes, that works with copper rad not with alum.
 

303Radar

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
#3
Thanks Mike!
I guess a better question would be, what is a good resource for cooling basics?
For example, why is one tube size good for copper but not as optimal for aluminum?
From what I've seen, tube sizes for aluminum range from 5/8 to 1 1/4.
Which is better, Crossflow or Downflow?
My application is for a 431 with 8 pounds of forced induction. However, it will be more of a comfortable cruiser to take to shows with occasional track/wide open throttle.
 

1958 delivery

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
#4
crossflow or downflow makes absolutely no difference for cooling. Two pass or even three pass work but not all that much better. They went to crossflow due to lower hood line
The reason for bigger tubes is to get more fins, fin count/surface area is what cools. You can't make a copper/brass with big tubes-it would weigh a ton, just not practical. The 1 1/8" alum maximizes the fin surface, more tubes creates air flow blockage. 1 row alum cool very well due to no air flow blockage. My old SSR LS2 came from the factory with a 1 row alum radiator, I think they are 1 1/2" tube
On a copper/brass a 3 row High Efficiency usually outcools the 4 row because the high efficiency core has way more fins, but 4 rows would block air flow.
How wide will fit in your car? The key is to have the dual fans, Dual 12" fans is good, if you can fit dual 14" you're way cool then
Contact Performance Rod and Custom in Indiana, ask what they offer for your car
 

ROYALOAK62

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 1
#5
I put in this dual fan with a temperature control from Derale Series A12 #66831. It puts out 3750 com. I also added Derale’s power control That can control the temp it turns on or off.
The one item I don’t care for is the noise it makes, but with the engine running and the radio on, it’s not bad, but sure cools my 409.
you should do your research on the type of fan noise factor Along with cooling.
Also I had to fab mountings brackets to the car. The photo’s are on my son’s radiator and radiator support.
there may be a better fan blade design then the flat blade that could have less noise factor.
Dave
The photo’s are CCB43CDA-B708-4169-BEF7-274F1491F357.jpeg A3217460-8453-4433-8863-16C69F79E637.jpeg A3217460-8453-4433-8863-16C69F79E637.jpeg
 

303Radar

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
#6
Doing some more research based on 1958 Delivery's info, looks like I can boil the choices down to the following dual core aluminum radiators:
DeWitts - 1 inch tubes
Classic Performance- 1 inch tubes
BeCool - 1 inch tubes
Griffin - 1 1/4 inch tubes

Probably out of consideration is:
Frostbite - 4 rows of 11/16 tubes
Frostbite - 3 rows of 11/16 tubes
Frostbite - 2 rows of 3/4 tubes
Summit Brand - 2 rows of 3/4 tubes
Summit Brand - 3 rows of 5/8 tubes
Summit Brand - 4 rows of 5/8 tubes

I do see a 4 core Copper/Brass option from Walker Cobra, but the cost is about 50% more than the dual core aluminum.

Now that I have a good starting point, I'll do some research on reliability from the top contenders.

Thanks for the info!
 

Cayneman

Well Known Member
#10
Beware of Chinese made aluminum radiators with epoxied rather then Tig welded cooling tubes. They cannot be repaired and leaks render them throw aways. Copper/brass radiators have a higher cooling coefficient then aluminum and can be repaired.
 

1958 delivery

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
#13
Beware of Chinese made aluminum radiators with epoxied rather then Tig welded cooling tubes. They cannot be repaired and leaks render them throw aways. Copper/brass radiators have a higher cooling coefficient then aluminum and can be repaired.

I've never seen a Chinese alum radiator that is epoxied. In fact the only radiators I've seen with an epoxy core is from Griffin, and i think they're made in USA
All Chinese radiators are tig welded and they do a pretty good job in most cases. Plus all aluminum radiators are throw aways if you get a leak.

True copper/brass can be repaired, copper has a higher cooling coeficient then alum not the radiator. Properly built aluminum rad will out cool copper rad due to increased fin count/surface area.
 
#14
Have any of you used the radiators from Auto City Classic? I can get a notched alum with electric fan for $329 plus freight . I would like to try the radiator with the stock fan and shroud which is $229 plus freight . I might as well get the extra electric fan and keep it if I need it ?
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
#15
If you NEED an electric fan,then you're doing something [tuning,wrong parts]wrong.Auto City Classic has been recommended by several guys here as a good source.I personally prefer the electric fan over the engine driven fan,but that's just me.
 

IMBVSUR?

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
#17
If you NEED an electric fan,then you're doing something [tuning,wrong parts]wrong.Auto City Classic has been recommended by several guys here as a good source.I personally prefer the electric fan over the engine driven fan,but that's just me.
Because I don't know what everyone is running etc., I didn't want to make comments. However I feel the same. Something else must not be right, at least its possible. I took my car out the other day for about 70 miles. 96+ degrees, 4 core copper Harrison, 50/50 Preston mix about 1/2 - 3/4 inch below the 15lb cap, flex fan, shroud, and AC equipment. Gauge goes about 3/4 and stays. Doesn't overheat, purge etc. I guess I will just count myself lucky.
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
#20
When I switched from an engine driven water pump and fan to electric I was able to throw my spray bottle away.My cool down became less than 5 minutes to drop from 200 to 135.
 
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