So this happened on my ride today...any ideas?

Eric Kozmic

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 7
#1
Driving along without a care in the world in my 63 - 409/425 & all of the sudden, there was a complete loss of all electrical power & the engine “died”. Fortunately I was able to coast to a safe spot.

No gauges, no lights, nothing....voltmeter went to “0”.
My horn works...and I do have power (12V) going to the voltage regulator.
I removed the alternator and had it checked out at the auto parts store. All OK .
I also bought a new voltage regulator & installed that. Nothing.
Not even my dome lights are working.
It like nothing past the VR is getting any electricity.

The car was safety towed & is back home in the garage. But now the fun really starts trying to track down the issue.

Any ideas where to look ?
 

Eric Kozmic

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 7
#9
I have a screw type battery kill switch on the negative terminal of the battery

I do have the wiring diagram you referenced. Reviewing it now, so thanks for mentioning that.

Using a volt meter, I was able to check the following:
13V between battery terminals
12.9 V at the horn relay
With the ignition “on”, 12.9 volts showed up on the 2nd position on the voltage regulator & 7.5V on the 3rd tab for the voltage regulator
0.0 V showed up on the 2 “outer” tabs

The battery is “new” from Oct 2018, but I’ll take it tomorrow & have it load tested.
If nothing else, to eliminate it as a source of the issue.

I’ll look at these bulkhead connectors. I’m assuming these are on or near the firewall?
 

Eric Kozmic

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 7
#12
I’ll add to the list of things to check tomorrow.

If I’m using my volt meter, will this wire always have 12V showing or only when the ignition is “on”?
 
#13
Do your head lights work? If they work, do they dim if you try to start the car? I had a 61 years ago..was a dirty battery terminal. Check your ground from the battery..is it clean. Do you have 12V at the alternator? Basically the wire from positive terminal to the regulator goes directly to alternator to the bulkhead connector one the other side you should have a heavy red wire to the ignition switch and the light switch and the cigarette lighter. These will have 12v all the time if it missing you have an open in the harness or the bulkhead connector.
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
#15
That wire must be hot at all times.If you back probe it from under the hood ,and it's dead,then thee'a a problem between there and the battery.f it's hot,then take the connector apart and check the terminals where they go together for burns/corrision.
 

Eric Kozmic

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 7
#16
No headlights. In fact, the only electrical item working is the horn.

I’ll check these items tomorrow & post updates.

Appreciate the help & suggestions.
 

Eric Kozmic

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 7
#18
Here’s the Sunday update:

Using my 12V test light, I have light (12V) at the following points:

- the alternator
- horn relay
- bulkhead connector on my firewall. It is a nice fat red wire too!

Still no dome lights or anything electrical inside the car.

I’m going to crawl under the dash & start looking at fuses, but at least I have 12V to the firewall (engine side).
 

Eric Kozmic

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 7
#20
You guys are awesome! It was the connector.

When I pulled the bulkhead connector above, it felt “loose”...

Sure enough, when I put it back and looked through the windshield, I saw my dome lights on !

Just got back from a ride in Blanche & to take back the voltage regulator I bought & installed yesterday. Didn’t need it after all.

FWIW, I started up Blanche with the “new” VR & the generator light was blinking...
Once I installed the original Delco Remy VR back, no more blinking and she ran fine.
 
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