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Skidder

Active Member
:? I could use a little help. I have a 64 Impala with a 409 QA motor in it with daul carbs. It has been sitting for a long time probally more then ten years. I was woundering if I should try to get it started before I started the restoration on the car? Or just go ahead and remove the engine and go through it. Its not locked up. I think I would need to clean up the carbs and change the oil first.What would you guys do? :help
 

nomadci

Active Member
Supporting Member 2
Skidder,

I am new to the thread/exchange (I ask more than I answer!) but this seems like an easy one so I'll contribute :brow , The fact that you already know you are going to do a restoration and tear down the motor....why risk any damage at all by trying to start it before hand......oh yeah....you just wanted to hear it once before the restoration...NOT!!! You knew the answer b4 you asked :? , but I guess you just wanted to hear it from somebody else....paitence is a virtue....especially in classic cars :cool: , Good luck and enjoy the journey.
 

Skidder

Active Member
Hear it Run

:dunno I guess I would just like to see if it would run after its been sitting so long. I have only had the car for about a year and I don't know if it will run. I have never had a car with daul fours so I am not sure how hard it is to get them running. I might fill better if it was running before I started. Might give me so incentive to hear it run again :brow
 

bobs409

 
Administrator
If your going to rebuild it anyway, I don't think you will hurt it to try and start it since it turns over freely. Maybe it won't even need to be rebuild! :brow

There are a few things you should do if you decide to run it:

Change oil and filter.

Fill with fresh oil/filter, then remove distributor and prime the oil pump with a priming tool which will distribute oil through out the engine. (preferably one with a housing so oil gets pumped up to top of engine too) You can buy or borrow this tool. Reinstall distributor. (mark it before you remove it so you can put back in correctly)

A fresh set of points and a condensor would be a good idea. (if it has points) If it needs a cap, rotor or plugs and wires, you'll need to replace those too.

Fresh gas is a must. Any gas that's been sitting for 10 years is not usable. In a case like this, I like to by pass the tank by attaching a large funnel to the gas line behind the fuel pump and feed the engine fresh gas through that. An I.V. for cars! :roll Crank the engine over to get gas up to the carbs. Keep the air cleaner on incase of back fire. Keep a wet towel nearby to smother any flames if needed.


There are probably a few things I left out but as long as you use fresh oil and gas, and the ignition system is up to par, you should get it going with no problems. Main things would be that the timing is close enough and it's getting spark and fuel.

If it does start, baby it for a while. Get it up to full operating temp before racing it up. Don't go drag racing out of the driveway. :p


Lastly and most important, let us know what happens! :D
 

dq409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
First and formost before you do any of the good recommendations that Bob outlined is to pull the spark plugs and lube the cylinders with oil BEFORE you crank it over by HAND.

I would add the oil (light weight) and let it sit over night before you turn it over.

Also ask yourself how this engine was stored. Was it in a dry area? Plugs in or out? Carbs covered? Other holes (oil breather, etc. ) plugged? Well oiled?

Good luck,,, dq
 

Skidder

Active Member
The car was stored in A barn. The car and engine has 87,000 miles on it. I took out the plugs and sprayed kroil in the cylinders and let it set for a couple of hours then I turned it over by hand for a while to get the kroil moved around. One thing I will do which I didn't think of is to prime the oil system. If it ran I was going to do a compression check and see what kind of compression I have. I was woundering even if it was good should I still go into the motor and put fresh bearings and rings in her. What Part number should my cylinder heads be. I would also like to buy a good impala book for the restore. Which one would you guys recommed and who should I use for parts? Any info would be great and I appreciated the info
 

Skidder

Active Member
Well I know this is a very old post, but I did finally get around to working on my Impala:rolleyes I know it only took me nine years. It's amazing how time has flown by. I got the car out last week and pressure washed the entire bottom of the car as well as the engine compartment, it needed a good cleaning before I started working on her. I ended up making some new battery cables and fixing some wiring issues that was cause by the PO. Once I finally got power to the starter and the distributor I sprayed some oil in the cylinders and turned the engine over a couple of times and then let it set for a day or so. I changed out the plugs and wires, rebuilt the back carb and supplied some freash gas through my borrowed lawn mowers gas tank, I didn't want to chance the cars gas tank. The engine fired off with now major issues and seemed to run pretty strong:cheers I only ran the engine for a few minutes being it didn't have any water in the radiator, this is when the real test came into play. Not knowing the history of the car I wasn't sure if the block was cracked. When I started adding the water I keep looking on the floor thinking I would see it pouring out of the engine as fast as I was pouring it into the radiator. I guess I got lucky because she never did leak any water.
 

DonSSDD

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Congratulations, glad it worked out well. Got any pics? What will you do next?

Don
 

Skidder

Active Member
I know, I know I am just a little slow...sad thing is that every car I own is a project so even though I work on them a lot nothing really gets done...:bang I talked with a guy the other day that had the same problem that I have so he suggested I sale all my cars and just keep one so that way I may actually finish something.:rolleyes I thought about it but for me it's just too hard to let them go...The few I have let go I wish I had never done so. I think some where in this statement identifies an issue I have. :dunno

Well here she is, I got her from a friend a mine at least 10 plus years ago. He said that the white X on the hood meant it was supposed to go to the crusher but someone saved her. She is a little ruff, ok a lot ruff but I still would have a hard time parting with her. I do have another 64 I bought from Texas almost the same time I got this one. I plan on using it for parts as its a pretty clean car with no rust or body damage. I am trying not to disassembly the car has it probably won't ever get put back together. The reasons I know this is because my 66 Nova has been apart longer then I have owned this car. By the way the butter tubs on the carbs are not my idea of a new fancy air cleaner. I cut the bottoms out of them and wired them to the carbs when I pressure washed the engine so to keep the water out of the engine. Luckily when I bought the car my friend gave me the dual air cleaner for the car, which I heard are kind of expensive. My next move is to have the radiator checked and get the brakes working so I can a least move it around in the yard. I know this will make my wife happy because she is tired of me asking her to help me push the car when I need it moved..I am also thinking about rebuilding the other carb so I can have them both working. What do you guys think? can I just run it off one or should I try and get it running off both carbs? I also will need some help in checking the valve lash as it has been over 30 years since I have played with a solid lifter motor....

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DonSSDD

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Put some seat covers on it, carpet, wash, fix up what it needs and drive it while waiting to do more serious work. Neat car.

Don
 

Phil Reed

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 10
If that is the original engine.....it's too part to get rid of. QP is 425HP TRANSISTORIED IGNITION!!!!!! 7000RPM tach would also be for transistorized ignition ONLY also!!!!!!!!! Too bad you don't live in Texas.............I'd have to buy it!!!! Long story...................
 

Skidder

Active Member
If that is the original engine.....it's too part to get rid of. QP is 425HP TRANSISTORIED IGNITION!!!!!! 7000RPM tach would also be for transistorized ignition ONLY also!!!!!!!!! Too bad you don't live in Texas.............I'd have to buy it!!!! Long story...................

It is a numbers matching car, just not a 425hp car; it’s a "QA" block 400hp. I guess somewhere in its life it got the 2x4 barrel carbs added. I was told it was used for drag racing by the original owner, which explained the low miles and the 4:50 something positive-traction rear end and all the spacer in the rear leaf springs, and the Hurst shifter. When I bought the car it had ET slot wheels all around like 15x10 on the rear, and like a dummy I sold the wheels. I wish now I would have keep them so I could have put them back on so to keep it period correct. I did buy an original bench seat shifter for the car just in case I wanted to change out the Hurst shifter.

I dropped the gas tank and took out the radiator last night; I am dropping the radiator off at the shop today and have it checked out. I just want to make sure it's not clogged up since it has been sitting so long. I know it doesn't leak just because I ran it a lot this past weekend. I guess I will look inside the gas tank tonight and see how bad it is, if need be I guess I will buy a new gas tank. I also need to figure out how the gas line should be ran; does it go around or through the X-frame? It does have a 3/8 hard line but it looks like it has seen better days...
 

Skidder

Active Member
Leaf Springs?

Good catch, It should have been coil springs. Someone had installed 3ea of those twist in spring spreaders, 2 more spring spreaders and a home maded bracket with all thread rod and jam nuts to also spread the coil springs. I ended up removing all of them...
 
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