Starting the rebuild on the 690 heads, what should be done?

lennyjay

lennyjay

Well Known Member
I have a 64 409 block, single AFB, snowflake manifold with the 690 heads on it. The engine runs great, no smoke, odd noises, or over heating issues. Pulled the valve covers looks clean, has dual valve springs and titanium (gold) valve retainers. Thing is, I have no idea how many miles are on it or if they have been rebuilt to run today's fuel. I plan on running it at the strip when completed down the road. Question is:

What should a machine do on a valve job?
Good time to replace the pinned rocker studs, add the 7/16?
Push rod guide plates?
Valve seat replacement?
Add roller rockers, what manufacture?
I know these heads are special and would like to make them heavy duty. The RPM range for the motor hopefully in the 6200-6800 range.
Is there someone on the forum that can suggest a shop in Tucson or Phoenix, AZ that work on the 409 heads.

Last a ball park cost, I know this is going to vary a lot on getting these done (carry in).

Thanks....lennyjay
 
jim_ss409

jim_ss409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 5
It shouldn't need pushrod guide plates but 7/16" screw in studs are a great upgrade.
The 7/16" studs will allow you to use BBC rockers which will give you a bunch of options.
409's came with 1.75 rockers vs 1.70 for a BBC but you can easily get 1.75 BBC rockers.

Like Brian said, don't bother with hardened seats. It's very easy to hit water trying to install hardened seats so just use stainless valves and avoid the possibility of ruining the heads.
 
lennyjay

lennyjay

Well Known Member
All good info. I knew there were some tricky spots to avoid (valve guide replacement). If I run Edelbrock or Walla heads will I need to run their manifold?
I have the 2x4's for the 690's. I will look into prices. Right on the pushrod guide plates, if the pushrod hole is fairly tight, I should not need them. I had a small block that walked the roller rockers off center because some of the holes were oversize. Thanks for information....keep it coming.
 
4speedman

4speedman

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
I agree with what has already been said, do not use hardened seats not worth the risk.But the 7/16s studs should be used .I had some 690s reworked a few years ago and did not have this done and maybe if i get a energy spurt this winter i might take them off and have the 7/16s installed.
 
Last edited:
303Radar

303Radar

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
lennyjay said:
All good info. I knew there were some tricky spots to avoid (valve guide replacement). If I run Edelbrock or Walla heads will I need to run their manifold?
I have the 2x4's for the 690's. I will look into prices. Right on the pushrod guide plates, if the pushrod hole is fairly tight, I should not need them. I had a small block that walked the roller rockers off center because some of the holes were oversize. Thanks for information....keep it coming.
Click to expand...
No, you'll have to run a Speed Port intake manifold :D from Aubrey.
Just kidding. You'll want to make sure you match the port sizes.
I think your existing manifold should be a large port and should work. I know I'll be corrected if I'm wrong.:think
 
J

jr.W

Well Known Member
lennyjay said:
I have a 64 409 block, single AFB, snowflake manifold with the 690 heads on it. The engine runs great, no smoke, odd noises, or over heating issues. Pulled the valve covers looks clean, has dual valve springs and titanium (gold) valve retainers. Thing is, I have no idea how many miles are on it or if they have been rebuilt to run today's fuel. I plan on running it at the strip when completed down the road. Question is:

What should a machine do on a valve job?
Good time to replace the pinned rocker studs, add the 7/16?
Push rod guide plates?
Valve seat replacement?
Add roller rockers, what manufacture?
I know these heads are special and would like to make them heavy duty. The RPM range for the motor hopefully in the 6200-6800 range.
Is there someone on the forum that can suggest a shop in Tucson or Phoenix, AZ that work on the 409 heads.

Last a ball park cost, I know this is going to vary a lot on getting these done (carry in).

Thanks....lennyjay
Click to expand...





Just a heads up the gold retainers could be alum. if they are I would get rid of them.
 
yellow wagon

yellow wagon

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Let the guys doing restorations use the 690s....spend the money on a great set of heads like the Wallas!
 
Skip FIx

Skip FIx

Well Known Member
If the retainers are gold I would sure check and be sure they are not aluminum. Crane had gold aluminum retainers I had on my first 09 worked fine but they can fatigue at the keeprs. They were the way to go lighter before titanium came out and why they are no longer made.. All my titatnium retainers are a silver plain metal color.
 
lennyjay

lennyjay

Well Known Member
I am aware of the aluminum retainers. Not only failure but they chafe and leave flakes of aluminum lying down in the valve spring to be carried into the oiling system. They are history, but going to give them the magnet and scratch test. I am considering all Comp valve items, cam, springs, timing chain, retainers, lifters, pushrods and rockers. I have had good luck with their products. The support is great by phone and online.

Question, should I replace all cylinder head bolts with new? Mine have no flat washers on them, should they?
Thanks for the info.....
 
Ishiftem

Ishiftem

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
If you go with Ti retainers, make sure they fit the spring very well. They can be chewed up by springs also, just not as bad as aluminum.
 
lennyjay

lennyjay

Well Known Member
Thanks on the retainer information. I checked prices for Walla and Edelbrock, love to have them, and the idea of just bolting them on and going is nice. I am not 100% convinced of aluminum heads, maybe I am just too old school. I also live in Arizona, so there are actually two Suns, one the rest of country wakes up to, and the other shines in Arizona, 4- seasons: HOT, HOTTER, HOTTEST, and FLAMES. I am sure the aluminum heads would hold up, and some say they will run cooler. Have to give some more thought to this, the cost to do the 690's around 500-700.00 estimate.
 
D

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
Yes Lennyjay,they'll run cooler ,they are much lighter,have better flowing valves.and have valve seats compatible with todays fuels.They also flow better out of the box than the factoty stuff,Bob's being the best.Bobs heads can also be ordered with the exact valve spring/retainer package,make a bit more compression,making them more of a true bolt on package than the Eddies.As I under stand it,the Eddies valve spring package varies around quite a bit,and if you're going with a roller cam of any significant size,you'll need new valves. The Eddie stuff is more of a "one size fits all"deal,Bob can and will set you up with exactly what you need.
 
CDNpontiac409guy

CDNpontiac409guy

Banned
As Don just mentioned about head. Bob's are more versatile, and can be had "tuned" to your exact engine.
I have a set of Bob Walla and Edelbrock heads, side by side, here right now. I can see that Bob's are a little more aggressive in their deign.
 
303Radar

303Radar

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Send a private message to Region Rat and ask about his heads. I have a set of them I plan on using. They're sitting at my engine builder's place and I know he was impressed with the heads.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top