Torque Converter Replacement

[gearheadtx]

I searched a forum for a step-by-step process of replacing a TH350 Torque Converter. I am about to do it and want to make sure I am not leaving out a critical step. If anyone can list the steps with some details it would be greatly appreciated.

Mark

 

[models916]

Here goes

remove driveshaft and center bearing, remove crossmember, unbolt converter from flywheel, Support trans at the pan area, disconnect the cooling lines and linkage, unbolt bellhousing from engine. Pull the trans back to clear the pins on the engine, lower trans and remove the converter. Nothing really tricky about it. When you install the new one, fill with a qt of fluid, and slide onto the trans input shaft. Get the trans bolted to the engine before bolting the converter to the flywheel. Could always replace the front and rear seals while the trans is free.

 

[61BISCAYNE]

remove driveshaft and center bearing, remove crossmember, unbolt converter from flywheel, Support trans at the pan area, disconnect the cooling lines and linkage, unbolt bellhousing from engine. Pull the trans back to clear the pins on the engine, lower trans and remove the converter. Nothing really tricky about it. When you install the new one, fill with a qt of fluid, and slide onto the trans input shaft. Get the trans bolted to the engine before bolting the converter to the flywheel. Could always replace the front and rear seals while the trans is free.

Make sure the torque converter is fully seated on the transmission
input shaft. This is VERY important! Failure to do so can cause serious damage.
Set the converter on the shaft and turn it back and forth about 90 degrees.
Once you think it is fully back, take a measurement from the engine mounting
face to the front of the converter and compare that to the flexplate backset from the mount surface on the engine block.
Also, if you are installing a higher stall converter, this step can be a bit more difficult, as the insides of the converter tend to float around more.
I have had to stand the trans on its tail to install a 3500 stall converter.

Hope this helps, Danny

 

[Toms63SSQB]

Danny is exactly right, make sure the convertor is all the way onto the trans.

 

[FARO72CS]

Converter

The reason for making sure the converter is all the way back and engaging the trans is because ththat is what drives your trans oil pump, you can see the 2-slots you are engaging on end of torque converter, it mus slide in eaaaasy ok.:

 

[mark johnson]

Yep. some good advice there. I'd just like to say to shine a flashlight into the transmission around the input shaft and you will see the two male tangs that must mate with the female tangs on the convertor snout. This will give you a ballpark of where/how to position the convertor to engage it.

 

[Dond409]

converter clearance

Make sure you have at least 3/16 of an inch clearance between the converter and the flex plate before you bolt them together.

 

[gearheadtx]

Thanks Everyone for your prompt and detail advise. I have a few questions that would help make sure I don't have to redo the job. BTW, this is a 2200 rpm stall converter replacing std no stall converter.

1. What is the best way of turning the flex plate to get to the 3rd bolt out of the converter (two bolts are exposed at any time).
2. What is the torque spec on the converter to flexplate bolts
3. How much flexibility do I have to set the gap between the converter and the flex plate. Is it fixed or can I move the converter back and forth to get the gap right.
4. I am going to replace the rear transmission seal that is currently leaking, any suggestion for removal and replacement? What common tools can I use without buying specialty tools.
5. What is the start up process once I have bolted everything back again?

Thanks

Mark

 

[models916]

bolt it up

I just bolt the converter to the flex plate. Before you bolt it up just push it back into the trans to make sure you have enough free play. The converter should not fit tight into the front pump. With the converter pushed all the way into the trans, the converter should have to be pulled forward a little to bolt up to the flexplate. I use a flywheel turning tool to turn the engine over the get at the bolts.

Converter to flex-plate 10mm x 1.5 46 foot pounds

 

[gearheadtx]

I just bolt the converter to the flex plate. Before you bolt it up just push it back into the trans to make sure you have enough free play. The converter should not fit tight into the front pump. With the converter pushed all the way into the trans, the converter should have to be pulled forward a little to bolt up to the flexplate. I use a flywheel turning tool to turn the engine over the get at the bolts.

Converter to flex-plate 10mm x 1.5 46 foot pounds

Where should I get the flywheel turning tool and how much would it run me?

Thanks,

Mark

 

[Dick MacKenzie]

$20 plus shipping.
Here's one:

Jegs
http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS/751072/10002/-1

Evilbay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Flyw...ure-plate_W0QQitemZ150326662191QQcmdZViewItem

 

[models916]

most auto stores

most of the auto stores around here have a cheap tool like that. You can also put a deep socket on the front crank bolt, or just jump the starter a little.

 

[gearheadtx]

most of the auto stores around here have a cheap tool like that. You can also put a deep socket on the front crank bolt, or just jump the starter a little.

don't I need to take the starter off in order to get to the bolts on the flex plate?

 

[models916]

I don"t think so

I have a mini starter bolted to the block. It's not in the way. You can also turn the engine over by using a long box wrench on one of the other flywheel bolts. Just work your way around.

 

[gearheadtx]

Torque Converter Replacement {update}

Just thought I provide everyone an update. We spent the mojority of our time (6 hours) just trying to get the bolts of the transmission bell housing to engine. The bolts that are on the upper part of the bell housing inside the firewall cavity are the toughest ones to do. What is required is a long extension and a tiny universal joint to reach from underneath the car. We haven't gotten the last bolt off yet because in order to have space to reach it we had to get the Trans oil filler tube and the cooling lines off. That's still being worked on. The last repair shop had put a bracket on the filler tube to keep it from vibrating but the problem was it was bolted tot he firewall. reach was a big challenge.

What came off relatively easy was the drive shaft and the 3 bolts attaching the converter to the flex plate.

The book said 4 hours to replace converter but that assumes you do a couple of these a week so you know what the problem areas are. It also assumes the last person who worked on the transmission knew what they were doing. None of these was the case for me.

Work continues on this week.

Mark

 

[Ronnie Russell]

Mark, Not sure if it helps at this point,, and not sure if it is the "correct" way,, but I remove distributor before car is in the air and remove top bolts with a box end wrench from the top, then put car in the air and work from the bottom. As models suggested, replace front pump seal. If you uncomfortable trying that, take the trans to a local trans shop and have them replace the seal. Will only cost a few bucks. You don't want to do this job again because of a worn seal.

 

[61BISCAYNE]

Mark,
I'm with Ronnie on this one. The upper bolts are MUCH easier to access from the top. I would remove the distributor cap at the very least to gain a little more working room.
You might want to avoid removing the whole distributor unless you are familiar with proper reinstallation, or you could open a whole new can of worms.
Once my car was supported on jack stands, I have removed the whole tranny by myself in one hour, using only hand tools.