Total seal dry film cylinder wall lube
- Thread starter bobs409
- Start date
The standard ring is made to meet the end gap recommended by the manufacturer in the bore. Now that does not mean they will be perfect when checked and usually don't allow for tighter end gap if that is what you want. I always buy file fit for performance motors so I can get what I what. Filing rings is a pain in the butt and takes time to not over file them.
Non file fit rings have a wider gap out of the box[usually about .005] as compared to the file fit rings.[less work for you].Comp cams makes adjustable checking pushrods [
you get to buy MORE tools] that will allow you to find the length you'll need for your pushrods
Ok, it's all ordered. 
I decided to use the dry cylinder lubricant this time. It's supposed to help seat the rings and I can use all the help I can get with these!
If they don't seat this time, I'm putting the 307 back in.
P.S. I checked the rings and I did have all of them with the dot up so it wasn't my fault.
I decided to use the dry cylinder lubricant this time. It's supposed to help seat the rings and I can use all the help I can get with these!
If they don't seat this time, I'm putting the 307 back in.
P.S. I checked the rings and I did have all of them with the dot up so it wasn't my fault.
More problems? :eek:
Today I got the pistons and block cleaned up and noticed the pistons have scuff wear and the cylinders have some vertical scratches. Most of the scratches don't catch a finger nail but a few do. Not all cylinders have the same amount, they vary. (see pics)
I've been searching the net to learn what caused this and get everything from it's normal to an engine that has been over heated or abused.
This has never over heated and I never abused it. It's only got 850 miles!
So once again, I turn to my engine guru's Don & Derry for the answer.
BTW, the cylinder scratches are at the 6 & 12 oclock position only so I don't think it would be dirt but you tell me. ??
Today I got the pistons and block cleaned up and noticed the pistons have scuff wear and the cylinders have some vertical scratches. Most of the scratches don't catch a finger nail but a few do. Not all cylinders have the same amount, they vary. (see pics)
I've been searching the net to learn what caused this and get everything from it's normal to an engine that has been over heated or abused.
This has never over heated and I never abused it. It's only got 850 miles!So once again, I turn to my engine guru's Don & Derry for the answer.
BTW, the cylinder scratches are at the 6 & 12 oclock position only so I don't think it would be dirt but you tell me. ??
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:eek:Remember when on inital start up,and you flooded the hell out of it? It looks like you washed off the lubrication from the skirts and walls.Nothing major here,re-hone it,take some very fine sand paper and smooth out the skirts,re-assemble with new rings,good to go.From the looks of the walls,we now know why it didnt seat,and used oil:evil
It looks like you washed off the lubrication from the skirts and walls.Nothing major here,re-hone it,take some very fine sand paper and smooth out the skirts,re-assemble with new rings,good to go.From the looks of the walls,we now know why it didnt seat,and used oil:evil
Wow that some serious scuffing
:eek:How clean were the compression rings and were they stuck in the lands at all? Were all the expander and rials free and expanders butted with no over lap? Did you put the expanders gaps and rail gaps in the same place on each piston?
:eek:How clean were the compression rings and were they stuck in the lands at all? Were all the expander and rials free and expanders butted with no over lap? Did you put the expanders gaps and rail gaps in the same place on each piston?
Yep, all rings were free and no overlap on the expander ring. I didn't see any dirt or anything in the ring grooves. I did set/stagger all ring grooves as per the illustration in the rebuild book. The rails & expander ring gaps were also staggered.
I didn't check to see if they were still in that location when I removed the pistions but rings do rotate so I doubt they stayed there very long.
Don, I wouldn't say I flooded the hell out of it. Wasn't quite that bad.
Sounds like I'm still good to go then. Had me worried! :eek:
Hone should hopefully be here today, tomorrow at the latest. All parts are here except the rings as they are shipping from the manufacturer instead of Summit.
Thanks,
Bob
I did set/stagger all ring grooves as per the illustration in the rebuild book. The rails & expander ring gaps were also staggered.I didn't check to see if they were still in that location when I removed the pistions but rings do rotate so I doubt they stayed there very long.
Don, I wouldn't say I flooded the hell out of it. Wasn't quite that bad.
Sounds like I'm still good to go then. Had me worried! :eek:
Hone should hopefully be here today, tomorrow at the latest. All parts are here except the rings as they are shipping from the manufacturer instead of Summit.
Thanks,
Bob
:? Well my theory and that what it is a theory is that the oil you were burning raised the piston heat retention and with the tight end gap on the rings didn't allow the rings to flex in the piston lands and drug the skirts into the walls. I routinely put together dry for quick break-in and don't see scuffs like that.
Bob could you shoot some pics for me
Hey Bob while I was was getting ready for a build today a light bulb came on. Could you take and post pics of the bottom of the bores from the crankshaft side looking out the top. The key in this is to see the beginning edges of the cylinder bore. On small blocks this area when bored can develope sharp edges which need to be radiased to prevent cutting skirts.
Hey Bob while I was was getting ready for a build today a light bulb came on. Could you take and post pics of the bottom of the bores from the crankshaft side looking out the top. The key in this is to see the beginning edges of the cylinder bore. On small blocks this area when bored can develope sharp edges which need to be radiased to prevent cutting skirts.
Bob,The caliper will measure the piston,but not the wall[no room].Too bad we're so far apart,I'd gladly loan my bore gauges.I'm intrested to see the bottom of the bores as Derry suggested.I doubt theres a problem there,but I may be giving the machine shop too much credit here.