Any of you fella ever run Traction Masters on your cars ? I have an NOS set that I am going to weld on in lieu of the 2nd upper control arm and just wondering if they help with traction and rear end stabilization.
Traction Masters
- Thread starter 4onthefloor
- Start date
Hows this ?
I’m no engineer, but I would say that they could help stop axle windup and maybe eliminate wheel hop. If I were to design such a setup I think I would make the axle brackets extend below the axle farther. I have been looking for ideas to add to my 60 Impalas rear axle because I have wheel hop in spite of air bags and an added upper link. Upper and lower arms have been boxed and poly bushings have been added. I have no wheel hop when I run slicks but when I run street tires I have to back out of it because of violent hop.
These were pretty popular back then...I'm sure they work...at least I hope so. I will try and get ,easurements in the next week or so. I wonder why the old racers used the L-O-N-G ladder bar back then though...connecting the front of the bar way up near the front footwells. Apparently this was due to a calculation to find the "instant center" of the car out of the hole. I'm not an engineer either so 
Apparently this was due to a calculation to find the "instant center" of the car out of the hole. I'm not an engineer either so
Nail on the head !!!
So does anyone know the benefits of the long arm vs short arm ? DQ do you know the correct way to measure for instant center ?
Might do a search here as we have gone through this in detail some time ago or:
http://www.raceglides.com.au/TechInfo.htm
http://www.raceglides.com.au/TechInfo.htm
CHEV601234
Well Known Member
I don't think the term instant cenbter was invented in '65... maybe not '75!
Fatride
If you are running the four link with boxed arms are you still using the panhard bar and if so why?
Bill
If you are running the four link with boxed arms are you still using the panhard bar and if so why?
Bill
mind if i butt in?
the 3 link in X frame cars is designed to have the upper arm go straight forward of the rear housing. so you easily have sideways movement and need a panhard bar.
when the chevelle came along, they designed the 4 arm angles to oppose each other and delete the panhard.
curiously, the 65-72 big chevies still retained paralel uppers and required a panhard. on the 65-72 models, the cars with 12 bolt rears had 2 uppers. car with 10 bolt housing had only a single upper arm.
on my new 63 racecar, had no room for a panhard and used a wishbone instead.
the longer arm makes less shock on the rear housing at launch. the ancient tires couldnt hold very well and this helped. and it helped prevent axle housing wind-up, and wheel hopping.
fast forward to current times: the short arms really shock the tires hard. modern tires and shocks like this and react well.
the farther rearward the IC is, the harder the reaction.
IC is the theoretical intersect point where the angles of the upper and lower arms would meet as viewed from the side of the car.
Bob W explained this very well, the boxed arms are almost straight back to the axle. Without the panard bar the rear would move side to side. The arms would have to be at a 45 dg angle minimum to stop the side to side action. Bobs wishbone is probably somthing of this order.
I guess I hadn't looked at it close enough yet, the rear end I have has the fourth arm and I will use that for now. I don't really trust these early rear ends and will probably change it over to something else eventually that looks correct. When I do I will move the arms out to put them at an angle.
Thanks
Bill
Thanks
Bill
Now this is plain and simple...thanks ! With the stock rear I would imagine less shock is better !
Boy,,,,, Sure sounds like a lot of unnecessary work,,
the stock 4 link and the panhard arm works just fine and is a great design if set up right.
Also what other rear will look correct???
I don`t get it,,, you can beef up the stock rear for less then buying another non-correct looking rear and spending more money to beef that one up,,,
Ray, Since you don`t have this problem with the stickies IMO I would say this is a problem of tire traction more so then a suspension problem.
Seems you are getting what I would call,,, tires trying to grab,, then stick,,, then trying to grab,, then stick ETC,,,
Maybe a good set of DOT stickies is what you need.
My Hoosiers are DOT`s and i run them on the street with no problems.
I pump the air up to 28 lbs on the street and lower them to 12-15 lbs at the track.
At 28 lbs on the street they will spin a bit on launch then grag with no hopping and at 12-15 at the track they stick like glue,,,
BTW,,, When I have the cash I getting a set of BFG DOT TA`s slicks for the street for the matching looks of the BFG TA`s on the front and will have a better traction tire then the stock TA`s.
That way I won`t be wearing out my Hoosies on the street,,,Just a thought
