What Stall Torque converter for 700R4 to go in the 4200lbs wagon?

1964SuperStocker

1964SuperStocker

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Using the 348 dual quad I ran last year at Tri-State raceway (about 320hp) and 3.70 posi gear. This girl is heavy and I do plan to hit the track 9-10 times this coming year. The RPM's max out around 5200rpm while racing. Without any dyno time I'm guessing the torque tops out around 2700-2900? Anyone have a 348 with around 320-350hp that I could look at a dyno sheet? I did well picking a 3000rpm stall with the powerglide last year but the 700r4 has a lower first gear so there is a balancing act needed to get a good launch with the few ponies I have while not just blow the tires off. Stall of 1800-2000rpm isn't going to work for me. My convertible has a factory stall with a powerglide and I can burn the tires off with my little 327 anytime I like. Any advice is welcome!
 
Fathead Racing

Fathead Racing

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I have a 3800 stall converter in front of my 700R4 with a camshaft that has a power band between 3500 and 6800 rpm. Peak torque is somewhere between those two numbers. I'm looking to having it cut this winter and see if I can squeeze 4000 plus out of it. The converter was advertised at 3800 and was offered up to 4000 stall. I would like to get 4200 to 4500 out of it. For your car I would say 3200/3400 stall. You are running slicks aren't you ? I have a few dyno printouts somewhere when I was running a 348. My Impala was running around 14.60 at the time.
 
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1964SuperStocker

1964SuperStocker

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Ishiftem said:
Better tires!
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I think the DOT legal street slicks I have will be good enough for now. Pretty sure my little 348 isn't going to work them to hard once I air them down a little I should get plenty of traction. I want to head over to Eddyville and work on my launch when they open in April. Would be smart to get the car into one of the local chassis Dynos to tune a little. I just bolted the 1404 carbs on and said "Its alive!" with no meaningful adjustments. Also seriously thinking of putting a better camshaft I have laying around in it while its out to install the 700R4. Dah, time and money.
 
Rickys61

Rickys61

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1964SuperStocker said:
I think the DOT legal street slicks I have will be good enough for now. Pretty sure my little 348 isn't going to work them to hard once I air them down a little I should get plenty of traction. I want to head over to Eddyville and work on my launch when they open in April. Would be smart to get the car into one of the local chassis Dynos to tune a little. I just bolted the 1404 carbs on and said "Its alive!" with no meaningful adjustments. Also seriously thinking of putting a better camshaft I have laying around in it while its out to install the 700R4. Dah, time and money.
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Take it from me... don’t underestimate the carnage a small one of these motors can do....these cars are heavy... when tires and chassis start working right look out....:deal :scared2
 
1964SuperStocker

1964SuperStocker

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Supporting Member 3
I always carry lots of spare parts. I've been wheeling 4x4's mud/Rocks for nearly 30 years. Broke lots of parts on the trail. Fixed all sorts of broke U-joints, drive shafts, axles and suspension pieces. With the added fun of doing it in the mud, on the side of hills and never on dry surface. Drag racers have it pretty easy. Lol! If I pistol whip the old girl enough locally then I should figure out the weak links pretty quickly.
 
Fathead Racing

Fathead Racing

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Supporting Member 7
With the smaller cubic inch bore and small stroke engine you will not get close to 2800 stall. My 474 ci. 4" stroke will foot brake to about 2700 rpm with my 3800 stall converter. If you want to whack it out of the chute you need more stall.
 
1964SuperStocker

1964SuperStocker

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Supporting Member 3
Fathead Racing said:
With the smaller cubic inch bore and small stroke engine you will not get close to 2800 stall. My 474 ci. 4" stroke will foot brake to about 2700 rpm with my 3800 stall converter. If you want to whack it out of the chute you need more stall.
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That logic is why I want to get the car into a Chassis Dyno to get a better idea of what kind of power range I am really working with. Keep in mind this car will get street time as well but it would be a waste of performance to not match up the drive train better in any situation. I may be wasting power with my current Powerglide and 3000 stall with the 10inch converter but it certainly comes to life when my foot tells it too. My 12inch stock Converter on my 64 Conv (355ci motor) is a dog in comparison. I know for a fact which piston and cam I have in the 348 and its not a big performance motor. Chassis Dyno time!
 
T

tenxal

Well Known Member
Couple things to remember when you're comparing convertors:
- As you add weight, the convertor will 'flash' higher and be 'looser'
- As the trans low gear ratio gets lower (higher numerically), the convertor will act 'tighter'
- As the engine makes more power/torque, the convertor will flash higher and act 'looser'
- Convertor diameter is not a good indicator of how loose/tight a convertor is
- 'Stall speed' is a meaningless term dating to the infancy of convertor development (like a '3/4 race cam')
- A convertors 'flash' is what you look at and what's important

Work with a reputable company and buy quality, not lowest price. :)
 
1964SuperStocker

1964SuperStocker

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
tenxal said:
Couple things to remember when you're comparing convertors:
- As you add weight, the convertor will 'flash' higher and be 'looser'
- As the trans low gear ratio gets lower (higher numerically), the convertor will act 'tighter'
- As the engine makes more power/torque, the convertor will flash higher and act 'looser'
- Convertor diameter is not a good indicator of how loose/tight a convertor is
- 'Stall speed' is a meaningless term dating to the infancy of convertor development (like a '3/4 race cam')
- A convertors 'flash' is what you look at and what's important

Work with a reputable company and buy quality, not lowest price. :)
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Yep, It's kind of a general question of what to run because until you know for a fact what kind of power you are working with and where it comes on then you are really guessing about every other parameter. I know weighed 4040lbs and with the interior installed will be right at 4200 with me in the car. I also know my 3.70 posi rear end so once I have a power number from the chassis dyno then I'll have a better idea of which direction to go. Thanks guys!
 
425/409ER

425/409ER

Well Known Member
I would say 2000 stall if your not going to race the car. With a 3.06 1st gear you won't need much to get that wagon going.
 
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