1962 chevy c60 trans question

427John

Well Known Member
As the title says I've got a 62 c60 ex state highway truck I picked up that had been sitting for years,I've got the 283 running good and the dump bed working,I'm still struggling to get the hydraulic clutch working and expect to find the clutch disc stuck to the flywheel or pressure plate when I finally get the clutch fork to move.The question I have is regarding the transmission it appears to be a spicer 5 speed based on the shift pattern on the knob, and it won't shift into any gear when the engine is shut off, when I run the engine while in neutral the PTO hydraulic pump appears to be working fine since the dump bed goes up.Is this due to the inability to release the clutch or am I looking at a problem with the transmission too?I saw on another forum that the medium duty truck tranny's have a tendency to get extremely hard to shift after they have sat for a long time and will loosen up some after the oil gets circulated. Has anybody else seen this?Any tips on how to get this thing to shift into a gear?
 

62BillT

Well Known Member
When you operate the PTO, is it when the truck is running and does the Clutch allow you to engage it?
 

427John

Well Known Member
The clutch still isn't working,I'm going to put the M/C back on this afternoon and try again.I've been starting the engine with the PTO engaged to get the bed to go up,its pretty much been engaged the whole time I've been messing with it.There's not some interlock that prevents you from shifting the trans into gear while the PTO is engaged is there? I've seen dump trucks crawling in gear while raising the bed to spread gravel, so I kind of assumed that wasn't the case.
 

62BillT

Well Known Member
No, you can still shift the trans while the PTO is engaged. Still don't know why you can't shift the trans, but once you get the hydraulic clutch working again may help. If the clutch disc is stuck, that also could possibly be causing it.
 

409newby

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 11
I would pull the shifter out and fill to the top with a penetrant, let it sit for a week then try to shift it ?????:dunno
 

427John

Well Known Member
I'm thinking I will pull the floor hump out and pull the top cover with the shifting forks off and check the shift rails,looking at pics of them makes me think Dakota Tom is on the right track,that way I can get things moving without having to worry about something breaking and falling down into the bottom of the tranny.
 

62BillT

Well Known Member
In my opinion. I would fix the Hydraulic Clutch first, then make sure the Clutch Disc is not stuck and check the Gear Oil level as mentioned, then run the engine at some high speeds to get some activity going in the trans and put some reasonable pressure on the shifter.

Of course taking it apart may be a better idea, but more work involved.
 

427John

Well Known Member
I will try that first,how much can you tug on the shifter before you have to worry about breaking something?
 

blkblk63ss

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 5
I would line up a gate on shift pattern and hold in Position with one hand and then tap handle at base in line with gate with about a 3 lb hammer . Just keep tapping and move back and forth between 1st and 2nd . Use the same straight shift pattern Light quick taps don't hit hard.
 

427John

Well Known Member
I will give that a try,I'm still trying to get clutch working,after replacing the slave cylinder tried to bleed it and immediately found that the line to it had a crack in it right in the bend which is probably what sidelined the truck in the first place.So after getting a new piece and putting the required bend in it and cutting back the old line and putting an inverted flare it and putting a coupler in it.I had removed the M/C and cleaned it up and got it moving again since it was sticky and put it back in and got brakes but then it started leaking fluid into the cab from the clutch side so now I have M/C off again to see if I can get a replacement or rebuild this one.Some parts vendors list the C60 as using a 1 1/8 slave cylinder bore with a 1 1/4 MC bore but others list it as using the same 1 1/16 SC bore and 1 1/8 MC bore as the C10 and C20 pickups, the SC and MC that were on the truck were 1 1/16 and 1 1/8 but I don't know if they are the originals,anybody know which is the right one?
 

427John

Well Known Member
Since that is what was on the truck and I've already replaced the slave with the 1 1/16,I'll proceed with the 1 1/8 MC.
 

Mearl

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
Is the truck chocked or sitting where there is a load on the drive line? That would make it hard to pull out of gear but once you get it out, it should shift through the gears.
 

427John

Well Known Member
It is in neutral now,just can't shift into any gear,the shifter will move side to side in the neutral gate but won't move back or forth into any gear,like the forks won't move on the shift rails.
 

427John

Well Known Member
Got the top cover off and the shift rails were the culprit, it had sit for so long that everything was dry and then condensation had lightly rusted them sprayed them where they enter the casting and at the detents with Kroil and tapped the forks with a mallet and got them moving like they should,didn't take much so I should be good to go when I get everything put back together.
 

427John

Well Known Member
Well it turns out that the shift rails were only 1 of the culprits, the sliders were also stuck so had to pull the cover back off and get them freed up got every thing back together now and goes into all gears as it should.Got the clutch working too, surprisingly the disc was not stuck to the flywheel or pressure plate.
 
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