454 Engine ID

chuckl

Well Known Member
I located a Chevy 454 Crate motor (still in crate, on a pallet). Year unknown. Block casting number driver's is 14015445, center number is "2 P CFD" and Passenger's side is "243." Intake ports are rectangular 2-1/2" high X 1-1/2" wide. Exhaust ports are round 1-7/8" X 1-7/8" Push rods are 3/8". Supposedly it is an off-road-only, COPO, High Performance 454 engine. It is in the original, beat-up crate, and bolted on the original pallet, blue markings, with "GM" on a white label. The balancer is round, with three threaded holes and three slots. It is a long block with oil pan and no flywheel. The engine has never been touched: The deck pad shows original machining and has never been stamped. Heads and VCs have never been removed, so I can't get a head casting number. It is painted with high-quality black paint. What say you?
Chuck
 

Murphdog

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
445 is a later model, mid/late 70's to 90 block, MK4. Should have a 2 piece rear seal. With factory rectangle port heads it is probably a 4 bolt main.
Other than a probably poochy cam & probably low compression it's probably a good starter kit.
Jeff
 

427John

Well Known Member
Back in the 80's and early 90's Chevrolet also sold an LS-7 crate motor and they were also painted black, one way to determine if it is one of those is to look closely at the oil pan it will be the Corvette style with the trapdoor baffling and you should be able to see the spotwelds for those baffles from the outside. I think they rated at 450-460 hp.
 

chuckl

Well Known Member
Thanks everyone, I will try to get the head casting #s and check the oil pan for the spot welds.

427 John: Where and what pattern are the spot welds located? Bottom and sides, I assume?
Chuck
 

1958 delivery

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
You don't need to look for spot welds, the Corvette style big baffled pan has the "sump" running all the way forward, almost to the end.
It's most likely an "LS6" engine, which also has the "trap door" but the sump only runs half way like a normal pan.
If you're buying this and it' price low, don't hesitate as it's a good 4 bolt block, sq port heads, forged pistons and a steel crank
 

Rickys61

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
If it’s from the late 70’s or early 80’s the stamp might not be on the deck but on a little pad behind the water pump above the timing cover… this pic is just an example I pulled from the internet…
Rick
E93A7DC5-0B22-4C63-B0B8-0C4BCEDE7876.jpeg
 

427John

Well Known Member
You don't need to look for spot welds, the Corvette style big baffled pan has the "sump" running all the way forward, almost to the end.
It's most likely an "LS6" engine, which also has the "trap door" but the sump only runs half way like a normal pan.
If you're buying this and it' price low, don't hesitate as it's a good 4 bolt block, sq port heads, forged pistons and a steel crank
Thats what I meant by the "Corvette style" meaning it had the trap door baffling not that it had the long sump,it sounds like the LS-6 and LS-7 used the same pan. A friend once had one of those LS-7 crate motors for sale in our swap meet booth, they usually had the aluminum heads but for a while they offered them with iron heads too.I think the LS-6 was the 454 equivalent of the L-72 427 while the LS-7 was the 454 equivalent of the L-88, a higher CR and the bigger solid cam = a higher hp rating.
 

chuckl

Well Known Member
If it’s from the late 70’s or early 80’s the stamp might not be on the deck but on a little pad behind the water pump above the timing cover… this pic is just an example I pulled from the internet…
Rick
View attachment 112874
Rick: I found the block pad stamp under the water pump. It is stamped: TB23XCH7
427 John: The oil pan sump runs 1/2 way forward.

My question is: what fuel and exhaust systems are best for this engine, as is. I plan to disassemble it to check everything and run it in a 53 Chevy long-bed pickup on the street, nothing crazy wild.

Chuck
 

dakota tom

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
XCH is LS7 crate engine. About 560 hp. One of the dealers near me recommended to tear them down before starting. Lots of loose fasteners in the engines.
Came as long blocks with iron heads. L88s came as short blocks and you bought what heads you wanted.
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
When you tear it down,plan on replacing the pistons due to the high compression,as well as the cam inorder to tame it down to make it suitable for truck duty.
 

chuckl

Well Known Member
When you tear it down,plan on replacing the pistons due to the high compression,as well as the cam inorder to tame it down to make it suitable for truck duty.
Don Jacks: Do you recommend replacing the pistons so as to lower the CR or replace them to better handle the high CR? Any recommendation for the cam in either case? The truck probably will be on a HD 2500 frame, possibly with rear duals. I have a rebuilt 700 R4 as a possible tranny--lots of things to think about/work out. It will take a while.

dakota tom: The engine does have iron heads.

Thanks.

Chuck
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
If that thing is an lsy7you're going to need to lower the compression by 2 points to be compatable with 93=94 octane fuel.I'm away from my engine sims but for what ypu're proposing in your truck,I'm leaning toward a Lunati Voodoohyd.roller,the third from the top of the page.It's a 231 ln.,239 ex@.060 on a lobe seperation of 110 degrees.They work well
 

1958 delivery

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Considering this engine, if it's actually an LS7. Is not the best choice for your truck. Even when you change the pistons and the cam, square port heads are not the best choice for your application. I would contemplate selling it and using the money to build a proper engine for your truck.
 

La Hot Rods

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 15
Doesn't sound like a engine to start with for a duel wheel truck. Maybe trade for the proper engine and have a little cash in hand for for extra bits you may need. :dunno2
 
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