The first thing I did was drill the tie rod hole to 5/8" and swap the steering arms side to side. The steering stop built into the arm had to be removed because it hit the caliper bracket on the wilwood brakes. By flipping arms side to side this dropped the tie rod location about an inch. Doing this eliminated having to use thicker spacers and longer bolts through the rod end. The tie rod sleeves are Allstar aluminum hex tubes part#56609. The misalignment spacers on either side of the rod end are Allstar part#18597. I chose to use good quality QA1 5/8"rod ends (lh thread). Do your homework on this part, there are many different grades of rod ends within each manufacturer. The spacers are 1/2" washers drilled to 5/8". I didn't like how sloppy a 5/8" washer fit.
To check your bump steer place a jack stand at the front and back of a front tire while the car sits with it's weight on the wheels. Place the stands an equal distance from the tire. Jack the car up from the front cross member to the point where the suspension is topped out. Measure the distance from the tire to the stands. If there measurements aren't the same this is your bump steer. Add or remove spacers as you see fit and repeat the process until the measurements between the stands remain equal. The measurements may change from your origonal starting point as you raise the car due to the tire tipping in or out at the top. As long as the measurements remain equal front to back you are good. Repeat the process for the other side.
I am sure there are better ways to do this but this is how I was taught to do it.
I would do some research to see if this is safe to do on a street car. Most of the drag cars I have seen have a heim joint for an outer tie rod end.
Shane