So why don't you have a electric pump on yours???
Can someone kindly assist me with my 1964 chevy impala ss 409/425hp. Its running hot and like crap.
- Thread starter 64ImpalaSS409/425hp
- Start date
-
- Tags
- 1964 409/425hp chevy impala ss
425/409ER
Well Known Member
Just haven't got around to adding one to the car. Do you think my BG 400 will be enough fuel pump for this car?So why don't you have a electric pump on yours???
Never used any electric pump's ever ,so i cant tell you.But here is spec , but looks like it would be ,maybe overkill .
Last edited:
My plan for my roadster is to leave the mechanical pump as is and add a Facet pump as a primer pump.
Quick block diagram of my plan. Splice in to the existing -6 SS hard line. Will fit in a 5"X 3.5" area.
Quick block diagram of my plan. Splice in to the existing -6 SS hard line. Will fit in a 5"X 3.5" area.
wristpin
Well Known Member
I think you would want to run discharge side of electric primer pump to discharge side of mechanical pump. Running it to suction side could over pressure and rupture rubber diaphragm. Mechanical pump not operating as primer pump operates would prevent primer fuel flow. My thoughts anyhow.
Just don't use so much pressure to over whelm the check valves in the pump.
The check valves open to free flow the way it is drawn . No pressure other than flow losses. Diaphragm is rated for well over what the mechanical pump can make itself. I’m using a 5 psi rattle pump. Also don’t want to push or pull rated WOT fuel flow through the little primer pump.
64ImpalaSS409/425hp
Well Known Member
Price???
64ImpalaSS409/425hp
Well Known Member
Make me a reasonable offer
Every thing pictured is included??? I don't like making offers. I like the seller to set the price what his lowest dollar is .
Start with the simplest first. When cold see if your choke sets. Warm it up and see if it opens up fully. spray some carb cleaner around the base of the carbs and along the intake where it bolts to the head to make sure that there are no vacuum leaks Check the plug wires to make sure they match the firing order. Check and adjust the dwell. Time it with vacuum line to the advance off and plugged... Install a 160 stat. Check to make sure your radiator hoses aren't collapsing when the system is pressurized and at operating temp. Use non alcohol gas. and back off the timing advance a few degrees from what it would have run on good gas back in the day. If you can't confidently do these things, find an older mechanic who can not some kid that doesn't have a clue. These are just some starting points and assume that the carbs were rebuilt correctly with float levels correct. Good luck. I took my '63 to a cruise around the Village yesterday. 45 minutes of stop and go only in 1st or 2nd. I put an analog temp gauge in it last year Stock original radiator that has been cleaned, 160 stat, stock fan and shroud. Barely went over 180 at the end of the ride. It was about 72 degrees out so not a high ambient temp but I was still amazed at how cool it stayed. Good luck. You can get it sorted out.
looks like the Muncie was causing the over heating problem.
425/409ER
Well Known Member
Especially the close ratio ones
I have just a little experience with an electric fuel pump. When I put my 348/434 in my '56 gasser wagon, I moved the engine forward about 3/4" for valve cover purposes. I installed the fuel pump lowest and closest I could to the gas tank. It also had its own relay. Nothing like starting the engine for the first time after idle for a few months. You could hear the fuel pump and when it slowed down, the carb. was full. Engine started just like being driven the day before. I liked that a lot. I was kind of forced in using the electric fuel pump. Not sure I would have done this on my own. Mine made a lot of noise, but with all the other noises, I didn't care. Not sure it's appropriate to mention, but I first tried a Holley Red electric fuel pump. It worked when it felt like it. Sent it back and got another Holley Red. Same thing. Got my money back and went with a Carter electric fuel pump. No problem thereafter.
Reading these threads about running hot and overheating, I must have been very lucky. The '63 409/340 in my '62, on the hottest days of July, ran a steady 180 degrees. Never close to running hot or overheating. I believe I ran a 6 bladed fan, shroud and 2 row aluminum radiator . I really miss that car. Such fun and a joy to drive, Carmine.
Reading these threads about running hot and overheating, I must have been very lucky. The '63 409/340 in my '62, on the hottest days of July, ran a steady 180 degrees. Never close to running hot or overheating. I believe I ran a 6 bladed fan, shroud and 2 row aluminum radiator . I really miss that car. Such fun and a joy to drive, Carmine.