Some pics of my car and other coil spring cars , they are hard to stop the RR squating w/ a nearly stock rear supension , i do not have any pictures of Brian's car ... his leaves nearly level; ... Maybe he can post a pic of his car !
NOW THAT THERE SHOULD BE A CALENDAR!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Dan
Explain rear end housing separate from body??
In the simplest of explanations, with the calculator on the website I shared above, the math and geometry will give you a percentage. 100% is perfectly balanced. Anything under 100% means when you launch the car, the rear end will want to come up and compress the springs. This takes pressure off the tires. Anything over 100% and it will want to go down or separate, i.e. expanding the springs therefore pushing the tire harder to the pavement. It doesn't mean its going to throw the rear end out of the car or anything, its very fine adjustments in some cases. GM cars by design always tend to have squat to them or the under 100% style. If you've ever watched a 60's Mopar launch you can see the back bumper actually go up from the track, because they are designed to push the tire down with their setup.
Just because a car has separation doesn't mean it will not still be able to wheel stand and launch like any other car. The only real way to pay attention, if you have a level launch, is to look at the wheel in the wheel well area to see if it is being tucked in or you can see more of the top part of the tire.
Hope this helps.
Steve, is yours an auto or a manual trans? I know that is another ingredient in how you'd set the car up because of the clutch settings and the manual leaving harder. Our car is currently set somewhere in the 80% range (all my setup notes are at the shop) and launches similarly with a best of 1.33 at 3605lbs and 10.5 slicks. This past weekend it was in the 1.41-1.44 range because it was hooking so hard it was pulling the motor down. Bottom line for the original poster.. there are many ways to get similar results! Just have to find what your car likes.... and have the adjustability to get it there.
Sounds like you have everything working well. In the dead hook situation you describe...with our stick car...we back the clutch down. We look for two things on launch. First the drive shaft speed needs to jump immediately to 1200 rpm...you have wheel speed. The tire hooks and the clutch separates... the motor stays in the power band...as the motor rpms increase the clutch locks up. The second thing we look for is clutch separation for .6-8 seconds.
Not sure how to handle the dead hook with an auto...probably change the converter... but I don't understand "torque confusers"
Keep up the good work!