It's showtime
- Thread starter Tic's60
- Start date
Well the race day turned into quite a learning curve!
1. The tires hook! Like really hook!
but this caused the issues of
1. Body flexed and the 4 speeds linkage jammed on me
:
2. The clutch is now toast! DOA ! :eek: Made it home but man was it a stinky ride after the stop signs!
So now I am on the hunt for a solid clutch setup.
Any thoughts from the racers on what can handle 600+ hp every now and then?
thanks
1. The tires hook! Like really hook!
but this caused the issues of
1. Body flexed and the 4 speeds linkage jammed on me
:2. The clutch is now toast! DOA ! :eek: Made it home but man was it a stinky ride after the stop signs!
So now I am on the hunt for a solid clutch setup.
Any thoughts from the racers on what can handle 600+ hp every now and then?
thanks
bubbletop1961
Well Known Member
Very cool, Sounds like you might have a roll bar in your future. Not a bad thing. Will help out, and its a saftey item. Cant go wrong there.
CDNpontiac409guy
Banned
aw maaaaaan, I was hoping to hear some performance results
:
How much gear in the back of that car ?
Clutch trouble is often created by too tall gearing.
I can't get 515 horse to hook.... HOW did you get 600 horse to the ground ???
: How much gear in the back of that car ?
Clutch trouble is often created by too tall gearing.
I can't get 515 horse to hook.... HOW did you get 600 horse to the ground ???
aw maaaaaan, I was hoping to hear some performance results
How much gear in the back of that car ?
Clutch trouble is often created by tool tall gearing.
I can't get 515 horse to hook.... HOW did you get 600 horse to the ground ???
I run 4:11's in the rear on the full spool and the stock m21 gearing. Least the clutch let go instead of the muncie coming home in a box
My only two runs I did not unhook the sway bar because I wanted to get a hang of how these things were going to react on the track. Perfect day with 63-66 degree weather and some of the runs going into the 7's :eek:
Me I am just trying to run in the 12's maybe high 11's. Finding that building a combo that can run to the burger stand and a day at the track is not easy! But will keep at it like any other dumb ***
Here's a water box to staging lights - click on the line lok pump it up and take her to about 5500 to heat the tires. Dam things Pushed me hard out of the box and when they hit dry land I was looking at Fred! After collecting my thoughts I cleard the shifter and reset to fist staged and ran to 3500 dropped the hammer and again was looking a Fred went to 6950 pulled to second and the in line v-gate was jammed hard from the flex (I am guessing here so please fill me in) so it was a simple sunday drive in third from there. Second run about the same but the clutch gave out badly but the reults were the same.
My 60 foot times were legend but the 1/4 mile was that of a peddle car
So I have two or three issues.
1. What clutch to run street strip.
a. ZOOM HP Kevlar - made for what I like or try to like to do
b. McLeod Organic/organic type - again been around for years
2. Tranny flex- Could it be the stock rubber mount? Maybe go poly or?
3. The next issue will be the tranny ripping itself in two. I bought another one for 75.00 that I am building up but now more racing till I have it done.
Or
A full out TH 400 4500 RPM stall convertor .........................
Oh and BTW - thanks for all the help everyone on the rear end adjustments! They worked very well!
CDNpontiac409guy
Banned
Tic, you say you saw Fred at 6950 RPM ?
aaah....
this is EASY !!!
You're not even vaguely close with gearing requirements:eek::eek:
Between the "oximoron" 4.11's ( not enough for drag racing... as in shifting into 4th about 300 ft before the traps, while being too much for street use ),
and the "no-first-gear" of the 2.20 Muncie... you're going to experience a nuclear bomb at the clutch or transmission, virtually every time you hammer it
.
I don't mean to sound Pushy, Tic
no1:... It's just that I see your "package" as potentially being an absolute animal. But the terrible gear ratios are going to kill it.
Understanding a "regular guy's" budget, I think a Super T10 from a 75-80 Z28 Camaro ( "3 ring"... has a 2.64 1st gear ), would be the transmission of choice.
Rear gear ? 4.56 as a minimum. If you have tall tires, 4.88.
If it hooks that hard... nothing will be fun intil you get some gearing in the rear.
And your clutch will thak you for it !
aaah....
this is EASY !!!
You're not even vaguely close with gearing requirements:eek::eek:
Between the "oximoron" 4.11's ( not enough for drag racing... as in shifting into 4th about 300 ft before the traps, while being too much for street use ),
and the "no-first-gear" of the 2.20 Muncie... you're going to experience a nuclear bomb at the clutch or transmission, virtually every time you hammer it
. I don't mean to sound Pushy, Tic
no1:... It's just that I see your "package" as potentially being an absolute animal. But the terrible gear ratios are going to kill it. Understanding a "regular guy's" budget, I think a Super T10 from a 75-80 Z28 Camaro ( "3 ring"... has a 2.64 1st gear ), would be the transmission of choice.
Rear gear ? 4.56 as a minimum. If you have tall tires, 4.88.
If it hooks that hard... nothing will be fun intil you get some gearing in the rear.
And your clutch will thak you for it !
I know Aubrey has been to the umtr site I think you will find real good info
there for the stick shift racer also.
http://www.umtrnorth.com/forums/login.asp?target=default.asp
P.S. stay with the stick don't go to the wosamatic.
there for the stick shift racer also.
http://www.umtrnorth.com/forums/login.asp?target=default.asp
P.S. stay with the stick don't go to the wosamatic.
Thanks for the info!! I run 28" tall tires and I read another one of your posts on the tranny rear end gearing and it makes sense.
What I will probably do is stick in a new clutch so I can go to the shows and build up the Muncie to an M22 with the 2.64 first gear and what ever else needs to be done. A steel mid plate for the bearing is a must. I found a Super 10 t in CA for 500.00 but have not confirmed it's shape. What does the Super T 10 have over the muncie? Would it need new gears bearing like the above rebuild or?
This will give me some time to work thru the rebuild and ask more questions
thanks!!!!
What I will probably do is stick in a new clutch so I can go to the shows and build up the Muncie to an M22 with the 2.64 first gear and what ever else needs to be done. A steel mid plate for the bearing is a must. I found a Super 10 t in CA for 500.00 but have not confirmed it's shape. What does the Super T 10 have over the muncie? Would it need new gears bearing like the above rebuild or?
This will give me some time to work thru the rebuild and ask more questions
thanks!!!!
Tic, you say you saw Fred at 6950 RPM ?
aaah....
this is EASY !!!
You're not even vaguely close with gearing requirements:eek::eek:
Between the "oximoron" 4.11's ( not enough for drag racing... as in shifting into 4th about 300 ft before the traps, while being too much for street use ),
and the "no-first-gear" of the 2.20 Muncie... you're going to experience a nuclear bomb at the clutch or transmission, virtually every time you hammer it
I don't mean to sound Pushy, Tic
Understanding a "regular guy's" budget, I think a Super T10 from a 75-80 Z28 Camaro ( "3 ring"... has a 2.64 1st gear ), would be the transmission of choice.
Rear gear ? 4.56 as a minimum. If you have tall tires, 4.88.
If it hooks that hard... nothing will be fun intil you get some gearing in the rear.
And your clutch will thak you for it !
Sounds great but I run a Moser 9" 35 spline axle full drag spool good for 750hp
But I know there are a few lurkers here that would love to nab that puppy!
Progress!
Congrats on your runs, seems you've learned a lot about the car, now need to dial in a few more things. It's amazing how much $$$ can go into trying to make them go fast AND stay together
.
Good luck with your continued successes!
TomK
Congrats on your runs, seems you've learned a lot about the car, now need to dial in a few more things. It's amazing how much $$$ can go into trying to make them go fast AND stay together
.Good luck with your continued successes!
TomK
Wahooo
With all that power you need to stay away from factory trannys and organic disc.
You really need to check out the UMTR site if you haven't yet. Iread ALL the tranny / clutch threads.
There is one fella there that makes the muncies / ST10s work
IT IS ALL IN THE CLUTCH!!!!
M2C - Your trany bound up not the shifter. Most factory tranies don't like shifting past 6000 when you work it hard. (no lift and RIP IT)
You need MORE GEAR! I went with a nash 3.05 1st to get it moving with my 4.10. I can goto a 3.24. My clutch (if I ever get it) is a ram 435CW with a 6128 bronze disc. @ other s here use a simular setup DIV1RACER and....? I don't remember, I'll check. I think they run a 435 PP (no counter wts)
NO AUTOS!:eek:
With all that power you need to stay away from factory trannys and organic disc.
You really need to check out the UMTR site if you haven't yet. Iread ALL the tranny / clutch threads.
There is one fella there that makes the muncies / ST10s work
IT IS ALL IN THE CLUTCH!!!!
M2C - Your trany bound up not the shifter. Most factory tranies don't like shifting past 6000 when you work it hard. (no lift and RIP IT
)You need MORE GEAR! I went with a nash 3.05 1st to get it moving with my 4.10. I can goto a 3.24. My clutch (if I ever get it) is a ram 435CW with a 6128 bronze disc. @ other s here use a simular setup DIV1RACER and....? I don't remember, I'll check. I think they run a 435 PP (no counter wts)
NO AUTOS!:eek:
Been reading through the UMTR site and found some great info there! Funny I never found it before.
Yup need more gear for sure and it makes sense exspecialy on the stress load of the clutch/tranny.
Looking at the ZOOM HP Kevlar kit http://www.zoomperformance.com/hp_series.html
Starting to locate the needed gears and kit for the spare Muncie to build it up but until then no sticky tires and strip action till I am done.
The new clutch will need to be broken in anyway so the cruises and shows will take care of that plus after learning what I have I would just bust something and that would be stupid.
Thanks for all of the input I appreciate it!!!
Yup need more gear for sure and it makes sense exspecialy on the stress load of the clutch/tranny.
Looking at the ZOOM HP Kevlar kit http://www.zoomperformance.com/hp_series.html
Starting to locate the needed gears and kit for the spare Muncie to build it up but until then no sticky tires and strip action till I am done.
The new clutch will need to be broken in anyway so the cruises and shows will take care of that plus after learning what I have I would just bust something and that would be stupid.
Thanks for all of the input I appreciate it!!!
With all that power you need to stay away from factory trannys and organic disc.
You really need to check out the UMTR site if you haven't yet. Iread ALL the tranny / clutch threads.
There is one fella there that makes the muncies / ST10s work
IT IS ALL IN THE CLUTCH!!!!
M2C - Your trany bound up not the shifter. Most factory tranies don't like shifting past 6000 when you work it hard. (no lift and RIP IT
You need MORE GEAR! I went with a nash 3.05 1st to get it moving with my 4.10. I can goto a 3.24. My clutch (if I ever get it) is a ram 435CW with a 6128 bronze disc. @ other s here use a simular setup DIV1RACER and....? I don't remember, I'll check. I think they run a 435 PP (no counter wts)
NO AUTOS!:eek:
Food for thought
Sounds like you have a plan....The stick shift is fun to drive and the quickest way down the track. Keeping one foot in each world....street car and race car...is a tough road to navigate. As you progess...something to consider....the lowest price is not always the cheap way....take this for a guy who has broken and cooked more parts than most. The advice about an after market trans is solid. You might shop around for a used Jerico. Look for the drag race version not the road race version. You will also get the deep first gear 3.06 or so. We ran a Jerico a few season back. The box had over 400 passes without a problem...675hp. Yes, a new box is pricey....but if you look around you'll find a used one for under $2000....I sold mine for $1800. Still sounds like a lot of money....yet is might be cheaper than breaking the stock stuff. Cheers
Sounds like you have a plan....The stick shift is fun to drive and the quickest way down the track. Keeping one foot in each world....street car and race car...is a tough road to navigate. As you progess...something to consider....the lowest price is not always the cheap way....take this for a guy who has broken and cooked more parts than most. The advice about an after market trans is solid. You might shop around for a used Jerico. Look for the drag race version not the road race version. You will also get the deep first gear 3.06 or so. We ran a Jerico a few season back. The box had over 400 passes without a problem...675hp. Yes, a new box is pricey....but if you look around you'll find a used one for under $2000....I sold mine for $1800. Still sounds like a lot of money....yet is might be cheaper than breaking the stock stuff. Cheers