Prolly close to 600! I have a 61 348, .30 over Tri-power, with large-valve, ported 333 heads. The 0950 cam, recommended by Don, is the perfect cam for my application. The engine has great torque, good idle and quick accel response from,1,000 to 5,500 turns. Am happy with that cam! ChuckDon Jacks has given W cam advice on at least 4-500 occasions (correct me on this if I am low) and I have never seen a complaint.
Yes I built it for my nephewThis motor sounds pretty decent (believe it's a member here motor). If I can at least minimally achieve this sound and hp in the mid to upper 300's I'd be happy.
...He said he does not know how to tell what cranks are strokers or not...
I also dont know how to id cranks as 348/409??? Maybe casting numbers on the crank?
So raise your hand if anyone here has ever "planned a build" and completely changed their mind later to run a manual/auto transmission? I see a couple hands in the air out of thousands. If you build your motor first and have no plan for which kind of transmission you would use (Your balancing the crank issue), then: #1 You are a poor planner and will be forced to spend more money to make up for your lack of understanding of what it is you trying to accomplish. #2 If you can't find a core crank for less than $100 then you don't have access to craigslist, Ebay, Searchtempest and thousands of machine shops that toss 454 cranks in a pile. Everyone I know around me tosses them for stroker cranks to build bigger motors. I pay core price ($50 for my last forged one) and had that one turned for $300. Now if you can find me a forged, balanced, 4" stroke crank that will drop in to my 348/409 for less than $400 then I have cash in hand and will buy as many as you can supply me.Yeah right! By the time you buy the steel 454 crank,pay to have the necessary machine work to it,you're going to have as much if not more in it than a new stroker crank would be.Then you have to consider balancing.In order to get a 454 crank to neutral balance you'll have to spend a ton of money for Mallory metal.Extrenally balanced cranks limit your balancer choices,flexplate or flywheel choices and are more breakage prone. IMO,Penny wise,pound foolish.
...I pay core price ($50 for my last forged one) and had that one turned for $300...
That was with all of the above. I was shocked as to how cheap it was but when you think about it, its only machine work. The old timer that did my crank was handed a 348 crank and a 454 crank and I said make that look like that and he said shouldn't be hard. 2 days later I picked them up and he said pretty easy to make it work. I found a print out (somewhere on here) of some information that he studied on the finer points of a 348/409 crank so that he knew about the special edges for the thrust bearing (if I remember correctly) I'll have to get that paper back out. After getting it done I can't ever imagine buying a crank from someone else when I can get a quality product made myself.Is that just for machining the mains, front seal, and damper snout down to size, or also reducing the counterweight OD and then balancing to account for that reduction?
Can you elaborate on the the thrust bearing edges are you talking about the radius or something else?I'm getting a crank done and want to make sure I don't miss anything.That was with all of the above. I was shocked as to how cheap it was but when you think about it, its only machine work. The old timer that did my crank was handed a 348 crank and a 454 crank and I said make that look like that and he said shouldn't be hard. 2 days later I picked them up and he said pretty easy to make it work. I found a print out (somewhere on here) of some information that he studied on the finer points of a 348/409 crank so that he knew about the special edges for the thrust bearing (if I remember correctly) I'll have to get that paper back out. After getting it done I can't ever imagine buying a crank from someone else when I can get a quality product made myself.
Ill get the stack of papers out if I can find them. I would just say to begin with, its important to me that my builders have the crank bearings on hand to know they are doing it right. I believe when a stroker crank is turned down that the journals might leave a sharp 90 degree edge that will need additional machining. A step that they would need to know about and having the bearings on hand would ensure they don't miss that detail.Can you elaborate on the the thrust bearing edges are you talking about the radius or something else?I'm getting a crank done and want to make sure I don't miss anything.