rear axle question

[TomO]

I have been lucky. 450ish passes (7 seasons plus tnt) on stock axles, posi w/bearing supports. I just this year added the drivers side upper link on the rear end. 14.20 to 13.90s. 2000rpm launch w/stock tires thru 255/60/15 drag radials and of course it has a slushbox. When I launch at 2000, I am holding the car with the brakes - so the drive line is loaded (not the best way for weight transfer) but probally the best for cutting down on driveline shock. It does hit the tires hard during shifts. The axles are marked so that I can check for twist.

TomO

 

[models916]

2 kinds of Moser

Pretty sure the 1/2 stud Moser is a race axel (that's what I am using). The other is a stonger than stock replacement. Just have to redrill the brake drums for the 1/2 inch. Just call them, easy to talk to. When I talked to them couple years ago they said they don't build 700 HP axles with 17 splines. They build the axles to twist or break just before the splines give way. Said it was easier to remove. Things are only as strong as their weakest link. 17 spline is maybe 500 hp at best. Mickey Thompson used to sell a left side only posi strap, one side pull out the other presses in.

 

[scott hall]

Used Mosier axles for years and no problems. 3000 lbs car transbrake and 1.24 60 ft. 572 cu in and 840-50 et's. Perhaps their street axles twist never used them.

 

[Tic's60]

Used Mosier axles for years and no problems. 3000 lbs car transbrake and 1.24 60 ft. 572 cu in and 840-50 et's. Perhaps their street axles twist never used them.

There is a large difference between street/race axles and gears. I could write but I'll plegerize

Axles
"The two basic types of axles in our industry are thru-hardened and induction-hardened," Jeff says. "There are major differences between a dedicated drag racing axle and a street axle. Drag axles are made from hy-tuf, an alloy composed of low-carbon, high-manganese, high-nickel, high-molybdenum steel content. This type of axle is heat-treated in a vertical furnace to a hardness of 46-48 on a Rockwell scale and is the same hardness from the center of the shaft to the surface of the shaft [thru-hardened], resulting in superior torsional strength and ductility. However, it should not be used for street applications since it is not designed to take the stresses of bumps, potholes, and railroad tracks. On the other hand, street/'strip axles are induction-hardened, a heat treatment that yields an extremely ductile axle. These axles have a high carbon content and achieve a surface hardness of 58-92 on the Rockwell scale. The combination of material and heat treatment creates an axle that can survive the bending loads inherent in street use.

Ring-And-PinionAftermarket ring-and-pinion sets, in most cases, are no stronger than OE gearsets. The advantage of aftermarket gearsets is their wider range of gear ratios. In some cases, aftermarket companies use a better material, but the difference is subtle. "The true quality of the gear is evident in how well the gear sets up and how quiet the gearset is in operation," Jeff opines. "Competition gearsets are designed for drag racing only, and are manufactured from 9310 steel, a high-impact material. This type of gear is excellent for abusive drag racing but would be too soft for daily driving and would wear out very quickly. Street gears are mostly manufactured from a harder 8620 steel, which is better equipped for constant use."

 

[models916]

And another thing....

Tire diameter on posi has to be pretty dang close or our factory wedge type posi will unlock and send a lot of HP to one axle. Spring loaded or cone posi doesn't have that much of a problem.

 

[models916]

more talk...

Link from the past


http://www.348-409.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12767

 

[hogmotors]

FYI
My $.00002:
I've been running Mosers in my 12 Bolt(std spline/spool w/NO problem) since 93-I'd guess 500 runs but I didn't look at my slips.
I sure hope this doesn't jinx me!!

 

[09Jud]

Stock rear

My experience with my 61 with a 327 , a 4 speed , the stock rear street tires on the street was broken axles . If the axles did not break the posi or carrier broke. I see allot of good advise in this thread and if you modify your rear it probably will be fine for the engine specs that you have .I don't think you have allot of room to increase your horse power later with out a problem. Keep in mind that the early GM "10 Bolts" are probably one of the weakest rears built EVER! In short I think you will be OK if you modify your stock rear by replacing most of it and adding support straps to the caps and never using a sticky tire or a slick you will more than likely be OK. If you cant allow your car to have traction your wasting performance, its your choice. This is just my opinion and experience.

Jud