Very light smoke still there
- Thread starter Carmine
- Start date
That's interesting. How exactly did you do that? Can you kindly explain further. Thank you, Carmine.
Carmine, there are different things to breaking in rings. I think several people above have mentioned several of them. Some have to do with the type of rings, the grit and style of the hone job, what oil you are using etc.. etc., Take the car out and beat the hell out of it. Run it up and down on the RPM's. Don't baby it. Put it in second after starting and almost redline it, don't up or down shift, and let off the gas. Do the same in all gears. The rings have to wear in basically. And if you have a problem, you already have a problem, it will make no difference at this point of mileage. We all know what these engines cost. However ultimately they are just engines with rings, pistons and cylinders and even the latest and most advanced motors still run on the basics. Ring sealing is why so many people would just use cast iron rings, because they seat easier. Have fun. Now act like your 16 and don't know any better.
Thanks Jeff. I drive it everyday weather permitting. I vary the rpm's from 2000 to 4500; maybe a little better at times. I'd like to think the smoke issue is improving. Hopefully, this won't be an issue soon. I like your last sentence. Ahhhh, to be 16 again. I try to act like that all the time. The mind is willing but the body doesn't want to cooperate, Carmine.
Duct tape the openings and rig a vacuum gauge to one of the holes. Duct tape the Shop vacuum hose to the breather and turn it on when the engine starts up and is warm. Punch some holes in the tape block offs to get 5 inchs or so. Doesn't need a lot of rpm, just varried to splash some oil around. Used to do it to the circle track engines I did for my buddy back in the early 80's. The rings in my 409 seated with some hard driving and old dinosaur lube.
Dont over think it. Just get the car out and pound on it. Up and down through the rpms, lug it in 4th gear etc. it'll be fine
Carmine, I think I figured your problem out. The solution is simple, kinda like a rattle that wont go away. Turn up the radio, and stop looking at your exhaust for a couple of thousand miles unless it is smoking like the Batmobile so you cannot ignore it. 
Great idea except my radio is the stock am one and only gets one station which is in Spanish. Sending that radio out to be reworked is on my list of things to do. Had the car out today and put it through its regular routine. Returned home and left it running while I unlocked the garage door. Didn't see any smoke from either pipe but that doesn't mean all is well. Even when it does smoke, it is very little but I know it might be there, therefore I have to look for it. Its like a form of torment. If I just could learn to ignore it, I'd be better off. It is what it is. Approaching 900 miles and probably not a whole lot I can do to change things if in fact it is an assembly problem. Time will tell, Carmine.Carmine, I think I figured your problem out. The solution is simple, kinda like a rattle that wont go away. Turn up the radio, and stop looking at your exhaust for a couple of thousand miles unless it is smoking like the Batmobile so you cannot ignore it.
Hi everyone. Almost 1000 miles on the motor and the light blue smoke condition is about the same. But, discovered something interesting tonight. Took the car to a cruise-in and was talking to a friend about this condition. He went to the driver side tail pipe and wiped his finger inside. His finger came out coated with dark, slippery oil. I then went around the inside of the same pipe and had a healthy amount of oil on my finger. Did the same to the passenger side pipe with the same result. There is no doubt that this is oil and quite a lot of it considering the tailpipe should be dry. Both tailpipes are actually coated. I should also mention that I'm down about 2 quarts of oil. He then asked me about the PCV system. I told him that I replaced the old draft tube setup with that kit from Show Cars. Took the air cleaner off and below where the hose is clamped onto the PCV valve, there was a slight amount of oil on the intake which appears to have dripped from this hose.
Knowing these 2 additional things, does anyone think that the PCV valve/system might not be working properly and causing this light blue smoke?? Is there anyway for me to check the system?? I'm going to take the hose off the PCV valve tomorrow and I'm told it should actually be dry inside. What if there is a lot of oil inside this hose?? Can I take the hose off the PCV valve, remove the PCV valve from the carb. plugging that hole and run the hose with an extension down the back side of the motor replicating somewhat the appearance/function of the road draft tube?? The motor still runs strong with no missing at all. Going to also check the spark plugs again. Many thanks, Carmine.
Knowing these 2 additional things, does anyone think that the PCV valve/system might not be working properly and causing this light blue smoke?? Is there anyway for me to check the system?? I'm going to take the hose off the PCV valve tomorrow and I'm told it should actually be dry inside. What if there is a lot of oil inside this hose?? Can I take the hose off the PCV valve, remove the PCV valve from the carb. plugging that hole and run the hose with an extension down the back side of the motor replicating somewhat the appearance/function of the road draft tube?? The motor still runs strong with no missing at all. Going to also check the spark plugs again. Many thanks, Carmine.
Carmine, although, we can include emissions in the conversation, the real point of that PCV valve is to reduce the crankcase pressure that naturally builds up in the motor so, first you don't blow seals, and second to reduce reciprocating power losses. The road draft tube, in conjunction with an open element, be it on the valve cover, or oil fill tube, would create a vacuum ( really a low pressure area that would be filled by crankcase gases, therefore pulling the pressure out of your engine ) So if you do run that tube to the ground, ( which I am willing to bet will not mimick the road draft tube function ) make sure there is a place for a small amount of air to come into the engine. However you can do it, and it is probably a good idea to try. I might have mentioned it before, but my wife's new 88 ( back in 88 ) Firebird stuck the PCV valve and sucked out about 4 quarts. Hopefully it's just that. And I am sure the guys here will have plenty of suggestions also.
Thanks Jeff. I have an open element oil cap on the oil filler tube. I also have a brand new road draft tube that I never used. Just wondering how hard it might be to use this with the engine already installed?? I thought more about this and I'm certainly going to take the PCV system apart and take a look.
The fascinating part is the amount of oil inside the tailpipe. I don't know how a little piston ring or valve train seepage or leak could cause this. This amount represents a concentrated effort. If there is this much at the end of the tailpipe, I can't imagine the amount in the preceding parts of the exhaust system. Its almost like something is purposely sucking the oil out and pushing it down the exhaust. I now realize why I'm down almost 2 quarts of oil. That is a lot of oil to push out. I have a few things to do this morning, then I'll work on the car. I will post a pic of what I'm talking about. Thanks everyone, Carmine.
The fascinating part is the amount of oil inside the tailpipe. I don't know how a little piston ring or valve train seepage or leak could cause this. This amount represents a concentrated effort. If there is this much at the end of the tailpipe, I can't imagine the amount in the preceding parts of the exhaust system. Its almost like something is purposely sucking the oil out and pushing it down the exhaust. I now realize why I'm down almost 2 quarts of oil. That is a lot of oil to push out. I have a few things to do this morning, then I'll work on the car. I will post a pic of what I'm talking about. Thanks everyone, Carmine.
Hi Carmine, This fitting was on my 409/409 when I purchased it. The seller also gave me the complete down draft assembly. I installed a fuel line grade hose to the size of adapter nipple and ran it down to just behind the tail output of the transmission along the frame. I never had an accumulation of oil where it terminated and I didn't use oil or have the blue smoke you've mentioned. It sounds like your sucking oil from the crankcase at that carb intake port and burning some with fuel mixture. It's weird you have actual oil residue that far now the exhaust as you would think it would burn on combustion away hope you find the issue or this helps. I bet your garage wreaks with fumes? Happy Motoring Ted
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Hi everyone. I tried to incorporate these pics into the original thread, but for some reason, I couldn't. So, I had to start this one. There are 4 pics below. I put my index finger into the driver side tailpipe and went around it. You can see the blackened oil on it. I'm sure the passenger side would be the same. I also used a blue shop towel and wiped the inside of the pipe. You can see the result. (I'm taking this towel to the machine shop Monday). I also removed the rear hose connected to the PCV valve. I guess I was hoping to see oil come rushing out. Nope. This hose was bone dry. I used a small screwdriver and went inside the valve itself. I pushed against like a springed door so I think this is working fine. Randomly I chose #2 cylinder and pulled the plug. I 'll call it a bronze look to it. Doesn't appear to be fouling at all. So, there you have it, Carmine.
Forget to mention. Just saw a little puddle of oil on top of the intake near a bolt. You can see it in the last pic. Guess its coming from that bolt.
Forget to mention. Just saw a little puddle of oil on top of the intake near a bolt. You can see it in the last pic. Guess its coming from that bolt.
Does Carmine have the tin pan on the bottom of the intake????
Yes he does. I also posted some pics in another new thread I had to start. Thanks, Carmine.
If oil is leaking from around that bolt,that''s a good possibility.but if that bolt threads down into the lifter galley.oil can wick up the threads/I've seen small blocks do that if no sealer is used on the intake bolts.I wonder, if oil is getting sucked into the intake ports from the lifter gallery?
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Don: The 355, that was in my 64, prior to the 409, did that.
The engine, had an old style Edelbrock Tarantula intake on it. No matter what I did, I couldn't stop the oil from pooling, on the two center intake bolts, on both sides. I gave in, and just kept cleaning it. It didn't affect the way the engine ran.
The engine, had an old style Edelbrock Tarantula intake on it. No matter what I did, I couldn't stop the oil from pooling, on the two center intake bolts, on both sides. I gave in, and just kept cleaning it. It didn't affect the way the engine ran.
Pull all the plugs, if no oil on them I don't see how you have oil in the exhaust pipes at the tips. If any of the plugs have oil on them, that may narrow down your choices of what is causing this. Clean that oil at the tips off and see if it comes back the same.
I had that on the 327 in the vette, light blue smoke and oil at the tips of the pipes like you have, it was the valve seals. I know you said that was not it, but there are not many choices for the cause of this.
It could still be the rings haven't seated. Put another 1000 miles on it as quickly as possible, unless you find out something else is wrong.
Don
I had that on the 327 in the vette, light blue smoke and oil at the tips of the pipes like you have, it was the valve seals. I know you said that was not it, but there are not many choices for the cause of this.
It could still be the rings haven't seated. Put another 1000 miles on it as quickly as possible, unless you find out something else is wrong.
Don