1959 Driveshaft

303Radar

303Radar

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Supporting Member 2
One option, but it might not be safe is to put the rear axle on jack stands. Remove the rear springs and use a jack to change the height of the car. Could maybe use 4x4s to simulate various ride heights if you can secure them.
This may not be safe but it might plant a seed for something safer.
 
oldskydog

oldskydog

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Supporting Member 10
Maybe I missed it but are you using the original transmission support and is it in the upper or lower position?
 
blkblk63ss

blkblk63ss

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Supporting Member 5
303Radar said:
One option, but it might not be safe is to put the rear axle on jack stands. Remove the rear springs and use a jack to change the height of the car. Could maybe use 4x4s to simulate various ride heights if you can secure them.
This may not be safe but it might plant a seed for something safer.
Click to expand...
Without springs I think it would be too unstable and dangerous . As I mentioned earlier jackstand's under frame . Then start differential at near curb height ,like it was on the ground ,start coming down with differntail till you get the angle you are looking for with trans joint and set pinion the anle that is preferred. Do you have a drive on lift with a rolling rear jack that contacts both sides of differential with flip up arms to let it down evenly . We had a alignment rack with that capability where I worked.
 
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1959chevybr

1959chevybr

Well Known Member
It is a drive on lift with a rolling jack that can move front to rear. I can jack up the frame or rear end with it while on the lift, just don't have a good secondary lift method. I think I will start with this, I know my goal is getting 1 piece to normal specs for that type shaft or some where closer than it is now. I got to put everything back together before proceeding anyway so I am going to do that and see if I have achieved getting the engine 1/4 inch or so lower and when I have done that I will jack just the rear frame/body up an inch or so (as blkblk63ss suggested) to simulate a higher rear ride height and see where it brings the angles. If I can get it more toward normal drive shaft specs even if I cant get it perfect I will add a one inch spring pocket spacer I have and take a test drive. If I can see a positive change then maybe try to do a simulation with frame blocked up and rear jacked at different heights and see if I can tune it in.

oldskydog
It is an aftermarket cross member running in the lower hole.. With a 4L60 trans the stock cross member will not fit.
 
1959chevybr

1959chevybr

Well Known Member
I feel like I have had too much to say and added too many post being a new member but I have gotten a lot of help thru this site. I don't really know the rules, if there can only be so many posts to a thread or max for a member, I guess when I break the rules someone will tell me.

Today........ Progress (not a fix but improvement).. Through some massaging of the engine mounts and some more jacking on the transmission the numbers were a little better. Engine down 3.1, shaft down .3 and front of pinion up 1.3. That gave me 2.8 on the front joint and 1.0 on the back joint, the best numbers ever on this car. Then we raised the rear body/frame up (as blkblk63ss had suggested) 1 inch and the numbers moved to engine down 2.8, shaft down .7 and front of pinion up 1.5. Angles front 2.1 and rear .8. We then moved the body/frame up in the rear 1.5 inches and the numbers went to engine 2.7 down, shaft .7 and front of pinion up 1.7 for angles of 2 on the front and 1 in the back. This is a difference of 1 degree which Spicer says will work fine, not to say it will get rid of the vibration. We are doing the angle measurements with a digital angle finder from Home Depot and it does jump a slight bit but the angles are to the best reading we can get. This piece cast $30 on line and I feel a good investment. We are now adding the necessary spacers to keep the car up, how much yet I can not tell, we are adding a 1 inch spring pocket rubber first and then will remeasure and go from there. New springs might put me where I need to be but you just never know with new springs, I will try the spacing first. I still have some tasks to complete, the AC pieces to reinstall, some grinding on the entrance to the frame tunnel for a slight bit more clearence and am going to box the lower trailing arms before a test drive. So when it is all back together and I have completed a test drive I will give you a report. I still have the thoughts of running it on the lift and see if we can find the sweetest spot vibration wise by adjusting the car height. The engine and trans are where they are and can not be moved any more to improve angles. Regarding new springs, does anyone have any experience on how much they raised your car when changing from 50 year old springs? How much they dropped as they were run in and aged?
 
blkblk63ss

blkblk63ss

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 5
We have no posting limits at least I don't think so lol. We like to read you know since we are older. Sounds like you are starting to see to the light in the tunnel. Ha Ha .I was thinking those original rear springs are just to sagged. Others can tell what spring numbers to use since I don't have that on the top of my head.Hope it all works now. I will say you have a lot of patience.
 
1959chevybr

1959chevybr

Well Known Member
I feel like I might be seeing a flicker of light. I am a very lucky guy, I was born with lots of patience. My friends just walk by me working on something and shake their head. This has been a challenge for sure but on most projects I have no one to discuss the issues with, since joining this forum it has been so wonderful to have other experienced minds interested in the project. I really am hoping to get some feedback on the springs. I know I have bought springs in the past and one raises the car an inch more than the other or they are so strong the car looks like a 4 wheel drive. Some guys with experience replacing springs on these cars might have some answers.
 
blkblk63ss

blkblk63ss

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 5
Phil Reed can probably give you some spring brands and numbers.You can pm him here on this site in case he don't see this thread.You can click his avatar and click start conversation.
 
La Hot Rods

La Hot Rods

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 15
You could just pick up the body of the car when it is running on the test stands.
You sure have made a bunch of changes. And sounds like you could be heading in the right directions.

The only comment I can make is when I tackle problems like these it works best for me to make one change at a time working to the solution so when I get the problem solved I know what fixed it.

Kinda like running a car at the track trying to make it go faster and you make 3 to 5 changes at once then the cars goes faster but you don't know witch one made the change.
 
1959chevybr

1959chevybr

Well Known Member
I agree with your assessment of doing one thing at a time and that was our basic premise for the last several weeks. Last week when we finally said we need to get the angles in line with Spicer suggestions, we decided to do everything possible to get the angles improved. So we were really working on one issue, angles, but doing everything possible to get them there. Our reasoning was there is no "sliver bullet" so we got to take baby steps, get a tenth of a degree anywhere we can find it, engine, trans, etc. so we attacked them all. So really we were just working on the angles thru several avenues. If this gets us to a "fix" I will be dancing in the streets. But there will not be a "known cause" except that better angles made it better.. How much better, if better at all? Only a test drive will prove that either way. But trust me, I am with you, I love to know "what fixed it"?
 
1959chevybr

1959chevybr

Well Known Member
Well I don't have many moves left in me but if I ever get this fixed I might find some. I am hoping to be driving this car thru Iowa next year. We are not fans of going thru Chicago so when we went from Virginia Beach to "Back to the Fifties" in Minn year before last we made a shortcut thru Iowa. Well maybe its not a shortcut but more fun. We are hoping for a return trip next year.
 
Iowa 409 Guy

Iowa 409 Guy

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Supporting Member 15
By the looks of the x-rays yesterday my hip-hopping is over. I'm pretty harmless anymore. If you come through Iowa, stop on by.
 
1959chevybr

1959chevybr

Well Known Member
Not much success today. The 1 inch spacer we planned to use at the top of the spring would not work. We had a set of the cheap coiled rubber spring spacers and added those but it was a bust. I need a lift of 1 1/2 inches and the coil we used gave 1/2. Not sure what direction I am headed in next, if I buy new springs they may be same as what I have, inch taller, 3 inches taller,, I think new springs are fairly unpredictable but one of only three choices I am aware of. The others involve adding air assist bags inside of coils (never used them before) or go to the local spring guys and just say,,, make my car 1 1/2 inches higher. They are pretty good but NOT CHEAP. Decisions, decisions!!
 
1959chevybr

1959chevybr

Well Known Member
turbo38s10
Quite impressive charts, I do not think I am smart enough to interpret them. Give me a couple clues to get started if you can. thanks
 
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