1962 Bel Air Bubble Top 409 Project

62impala409

 
Supporting Member 1
No adjustment on fan and shroud. If you are using the correct parts, the fan will be in the correct position. You should be feeling hot air in your face when you stand by the front wheel area as the air spills off the fan blade tips if the fan location is correct. When the fan blades are located inside the fan shroud, the hot air is blasted directly onto the engine block.
 

CASHguzzler409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
I recently returned my 4657 fuel pump, it was only reading 3.5 psi, they sent me a new one that was 5 psi, and it did the trick. I also bought a new 3/8 fuel line to carbs, just for you guys looking for a new
one, when you order from Show Cars, there's is 5/16 line, they don't say that on the listing, so beware. Ecklers has the right 3/8 line 49.00. I have also had a problem with my charging system since day one. Finally took it to Acme Auto Electric and they found I had installed the generator without enough washers for spacing. It then cracked on one of the end pieces, they had one and got that fixed. Next
was the field terminal, I had broken the wire going into the generator, also had put the red decal on, but put a large washer on top of it, don't do this, it grounds out the generator. They fixed that and
I can only say, if you can't figure it out, your buddy's can't figure it out, take it to the Pro's in that field. Im taking the car up and have the alinement done Sat. Hope it doesn't rain. Not much else to fix
on the beast, speedo-, adjust carbs some more, and I think were almost ready to throw some miles on the 409. We finished up putting in a escape side door, what a nice thing to have, easy to get out of
car when pulling into the trailer. Time is running out, June 15 is soon upon us, we leave Seattle the 8th and will take the week to get there, going up thru Montana, etc. See ya soon, stan
 

CASHguzzler409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
A question for you mechanic's . My speedo- isn't working, to test it can I take the cable out of the tranny and hook it up to a drill to see if the needle
moves?. Really don't want to take out the whole dash if not necessary. Laughing is allowed.:roll
 

62bubble

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 5
Stan, when you remove the speedo cable from the transmission, make sure the other end of the cable is fully inserted into the back of the speedo in the dash as the cable slides in andout of its housing. Put the drill in the reverse position(counter clockwise}to make the needle register the speed on the dial. The drill must be strong enough to turn the cable fast enough to move the needle.Make sure the ends of your cable are not rounded off, they should be square. If you can't get it to work let me know and I will send you a complete speedo head for the cost of shipping, if that is your desire. Good luck, Mike..
 

CASHguzzler409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
Hey 62bubble and Don Jacks if I were talking to my buddies , and they said to run it in reverse, I would just laugh, and say right. Knowing they were giving me a bunch of... hit...... Im now thinking that there might not be a gear in the tranny, i'll take it apart and look. Thanks for the help.
Thanks Mike, for the offer of a replacement, I'll let you know, one way or the other.
 

CASHguzzler409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
Today took the speedometer cable off tranny and hooked the drill up to it. It did spin the needle up to about 90, glad no cops were around.
I took the cable gear out of tranny and its a black, 17 tooth gear type. I wonder if any of you have had this same problem? :dunno I did buy a new spd
cable, so it good and square on the tranny end. Im going to put it back together and maybe "lady luck" will be with me and it will work. :pray
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
What does the gear on the out put shaft look like? Is it in position? You should be able to see the end of the driven gear move as you move the drive shaft.If so,then it's a cable issue[too short,not seated properly].
 

303Radar

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
My dad ended up with a second '59 speedo because the one in the El Camino wasn't working. Turns out, the cable was twisted in the it's sheath.
While not the problem here, it is something else to check.
 

CASHguzzler409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
Another day, another 409 playing hard ball. I did as I said a couple blogs ago, when I took the cable off the tranny, and pulled the gear housing out, I looked inside
and I believe there was a bigger gear?. Im wondering if when I was re-installing the cable, I did pull the cable out as far as I could, then assembled. Could I have
pull it to far out and its not in far enough at the speed o gage. Today it did bounce somewhat, but not into the number parts. Took it for a drive, and my
emergency brake stuck on, right in the middle of the Post Office driveway, what a FMess that was. Luckily a friendly Chevy man came by and showed me how
to pull the finger releasing the brake. Shit.... then next at 3:00 took it for front end alignment. Good news, bad news, the tech guy, older old timer, worked on it.
Asked me if I was going to run the bias tires all the time, I said no, I had radials. He said that they have to set each type at different settings. Well when I get back
1 -1/2 hrs later, here come the bad news. He said he couldn't get it to the correct numbers because the frame rails had sagged, I should take it to a frame bender.
I have finished restoring 3 cars, all which had to go to the frame shop after being restored. This CAR does not want to be on the road again.....:mad3,
but I will not be denied. Still having some carb problems, staying at idle, when trying to restart, have to pump then put it on the floor. We leave on the 8th of june,
I have a long ways to go, and a short time to get their. Come hell or high water, and the creek don't rise, We"ll be there.

I did get the floor of the trailer painted today, and had two of the freshest "coldest brews" in town. It was a good day after all. :beer
 

303Radar

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
I don't doubt you're having frame sag, but from having my frame straightened, I know it isn't visually apparent.
Which upper control arms are you using? I have an idea, but don't know if it will make sense to shave down the mounting flange on the top cross bar where it meets the bolts on the frame to gain some adjustment. I know on my Air Ride uppers, this piece is quite thick and it looks like it is possible. I know there is a better name for this piece, but I'm at a loss for terminology.
Also, since we have the same/similar control arms as gen 2 vettes (thought I read this here), I've heard there is a camber kit they can use. I wonder if it would work for our usage?
Another possibility is rather work intensive and probably not worth doing. You could relocate the mounting flange for the upper control arms.
 

CASHguzzler409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
Help..... Clutch Problems... :dunno2

What a road trip we had, over 6500 miles all together, Bowling green was great, meeting all the guys and having them give great advise on problems that come up. Well here's one that a lot of 409'ers have had. Clutch problems. My clutch worked fine at Bowling green, shifted good, no "noise". After getting home and taking my car out of the trailer, I slipped the clutch to creep out of the trailer, and all of a sudden
a loud noise started up, sounded like a fan hitting the shroud. After getting it up in the air on jack stands, we took a look at the clutch. Its a Center Force dual action with the
circle of magnetics that are held together with a wire. I believe its these beads that are
making the noise, when the motor is running, the circle doesn't stay in a round shape, as you would think it should, but it turns into a egg shape. The noise can be just a little
clattering, or a loud clattering.
New Center Force Dual Action
New Flywheel , T10 62 4spd.
New Throw out bearing, short one from Center Force. The t.o.b. is touching the
pressure plate fingers, I think it should be about 1/4" back, but can't figure out how to adjust it.?
62 Clutch Fork, had to weld on new spring, short stock ball
552 Bell Housing
I have tried two lower Clutch Fork rods 1. 62 modified rod that is 12" long
2. 61 org. 10" rod with hole in end
Should I take everything out and start over?
Should I take it to a clutch shop/trannyshop/ the way it is, so they can listen to it run.
Should I take it apart and take the parts to them to see where the problem is?

I have it entered in the GoodGuys Car event on the 28th of July, I can trailer it, but sure
would love to have it fixed to drive it in show room. :thinkAny idea's would be 100_2392.jpg 100_2399.jpg 100_2400.jpg 100_2402.jpg 100_2404.jpg IMG_0928.jpg much appreciated and welcomed. the guzzler. :bonk
 

Baron

Active Member
Supporting Member 1
One thing I see is that the clutch fork was either not in place or jumped out and bent the retainer that holds the fork against the ball. Possibly caused by a wrong length throw-out bearing, or jumped off when something fell apart in the pressure plate. I have no experience with the Center Force dual action clutch, but by your description, it sounds like something could be wrong there. I'd pull the clutch out and take a good look at everything, including the flywheel to crank bolts. Good luck.
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
Why not go to a stock replacement diaphragm pressure plate,and throwout bearing? As mild as your combo is,and no harder than it's used,I really don't see the need for a fancy,expensive clutch assembly.As Baron said,,take it apart and check everything.
 

DonSSDD

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
I don't think it will work well at all with the wrong length TOB and you said it worked fine before so not likely the wrong TOB, it should be the short one. I would say if you take it apart, you should see the problem right away.

Good luck.

Don
 

scott hall

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
If the tob is touching all the time thats probably your noise. They make constant run type if you can't get it away from diaphram, which you should be able to do.
 

Baron

Active Member
Supporting Member 1
I don't think it will work well at all with the wrong length TOB and you said it worked fine before so not likely the wrong TOB, it should be the short one. I would say if you take it apart, you should see the problem right away.
Good luck.Don
The reason I thought it may be the wrong throw out bearing was that he had tried 2 clutch rods. One was 2 inches longer and if he installed that in the car to make up for the wrong( short) throw out bearing, that could have over-extended that fork which may have caused the retainer to jump off the ball, etc. I'm sure once he gets it apart, I'm sure he'll find the problem.
 

CASHguzzler409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
Thanks for the help, its great to get ideas from the group, they really help. I have thought about buying a stock clutch setup as you and some of my friend said. Baron you may be right about the fork and the ball coming off of it, as I look at the fork from underneath, when I push the fork onto the TOB, by hand it does reset the ball off the spring. I have done all I can trying to adjust the clutch, so my next step is taking it all apart as so many have said to do.
 
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