34 tri power

59K9

59K9

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
if I'm gonna spend that much for something I don't need I'd like it to be as correct as possible...how's the price look to you guys...
 
D

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
It's a little on the high side to me.I've seen conversions like this one go in the 12-1500 range with air cleaners.Corrrect set up's,if you can find one,are closer to 3.000.The correct carbs,linkages,vacuuum switches,tanks,and actuaters are very tough to find,and expensive when you do.If you want to go "numbers correct",it's gonna get pricey.
 
59K9

59K9

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
I don't see that happening don, it's not that important to me...did the big shows for years and not my gig anymore...thanks for giving me the large picture...what's a "tank" for on tri power
 
Gofish

Gofish

Well Known Member
To me that price is slightly high for what I’ve seen in recent past, but not totally out of line. The carbs look to be true tri-power carbs , or at least the top sections are. The progressive linkage isn’t factory, but it’s what a lot of people switch to at some time.

When using Ebay I often scroll down the left side of the screen and select the filters for ‘completed’ and ‘sold’ (two different filters). That way you can see what things have sold for rather than just what people are asking.

John
 
61BUBBLE348

61BUBBLE348

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 11
The manifold is worth between 2-300, remanufactured carbs from Show Cars are around $1000.00.
linkage is probably $50, so not a bargain but around the mark.
 
La Hot Rods

La Hot Rods

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 15
If I was going to tri-power I would have mechanical linkage and depending on my driving style it would be one to one or maybe progressive.
The vacuum tank is to hold vacuum to open the outside carburetors when the vacuum switch is operated, this system has many places to have vacuum leaks and not work to factory secs. You also loose the mechanical advantage to operate the outside carburetors to flush them of stale gas that will make it fall on it's face when you pare up with that mustang on the street.
 
61BUBBLE348

61BUBBLE348

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 11
I have been running my Tri-power set up, progressive mechanical for the past 10 or so years with no issues. Bearing in mind us poor folks outside the US pay an arm and a leg for W stuff, So 10 years ago, $200 for an intake, date coded mid 60, Show Cars correct carbs $900, home made linkages, repo air cleaner $500, exchange rate at the time $1 USD equals $ 0.81 cents, I will let you do the math,
This is not a whinge, but I really like my Tri-power.
100_1943.JPG
 
boxerdog

boxerdog

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 5
I think our crappy gas and some sloppy rebuilds (or carb core selection) are adding to the bad rep the 3x2 setups are getting. Some members have been very successful with them, and they are absolutely period correct. Sometimes we get caught up in the "gotta build the biggest number, optimum everything" syndrome and lose sight of what we are working with here. I guess old racers are still racers at heart.

I'd be the first to agree that it appears Chevy wasn't very good at intake design in the early 60s, but that was the state of engineering back then. The aftermarket wasn't great either. That was 60 years ago and it's still fun to play with.
 
4

427John

Well Known Member
My only tripower experience has been with early 60's Ford Holley systems and my experience has been that when properly rebuilt and adjusted they give a seamless operation that just gives a steady increase in power as the accelerator is pushed.If the Rochester 2g system gives similar performance I will have no complaints.A buddy of mine has a 65 GTO with a rochester tripower and the very limited amount that he has driven it he seems to be satisfied.
 
BSL409

BSL409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
BE92015C-3E1C-42CB-B589-EA4EF2052168.jpeg
La Hot Rods said:
If I was going to tri-power I would have mechanical linkage and depending on my driving style it would be one to one or maybe progressive.
The vacuum tank is to hold vacuum to open the outside carburetors when the vacuum switch is operated, this system has many places to have vacuum leaks and not work to factory secs. You also loose the mechanical advantage to operate the outside carburetors to flush them of stale gas that will make it fall on it's face when you pare up with that mustang on the street.
Click to expand...

Vacuum is for show this is for go
 
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