409 Stroker build

[Mongo]

Modified the Block to accept the larger H Beam Rods

 

[Mongo]

I finished my rod to block clearance

 

[Mongo]

After figuring out the exact pushrod length I need I found that at maximum lift I only had about.020 clearance until the exhaust valve made contact with the cylinder
So I marked where each exhaust valve was making contact then I made a small modification to that area in order to get more clearance

 

[Mongo]

Now at maximum lift a.060 feeler gauge goes easily in

 

[MRHP]

How much radial clearance do you have on the valve?

 

[Mongo]

Next I Miked all of my new pistons to make sure that they were all perfect then I set my Bore gauge to be zero at that measurement then checked each bore
I’m coming up with.0035 to.004 clearance
And the Ross pistons that I have call for a minimum of.003 so I should be good to go

 

[Mongo]

MRHP I really don’t know how much radial clearance I have but that’s a great question I will have to check it out when I get back to it THANKS

 

[Ishiftem]

I would want more clearance than that. Plus giving it more will help exhaust flow. Win win.

 

[Murphdog]

The bearing should have washers on both sides. Oil groves not needed. Just would be ways for oil to escape and not lube bearing.

That is a "captive" bearing, washers & bearing are all in one. There are timing sets made with this bearing that do not require modifications. In Mongo's case he was saving his block. Looks like he has it figured out.

 

[MRHP]

I would want more clearance than that. Plus giving it more will help exhaust flow. Win win.

Thats exactly where I was going Dan. Your one smart sum bitch.

 

[Ishiftem]

Thats exactly where I was going Dan. Your one smart sum bitch.

My cat’s name is mittens.

 

[Mongo]

Modified an old piston so that I could get the rings down in the bore squarely to file fit each one to the bore that it will be in

 

[Mongo]

Pistons assembled and waiting to be loaded

 

[Mongo]

Crank is in and Mains are torqued

 

[Mongo]

Checking Crankshaft end play

 

[Mongo]

Loaded all the pistons

 

[Murphdog]

What was your end play? If it was the .0035 your indicator shows, that looks like on the tight side to me. If you would like to see more end play you might try loosening the back cap and prying the crank back & forth or whacking each end with a large dead blow to help "align" the thrust faces of the rear bearing. Could possibly get you some more movement.
Jeff

 

[Mongo]

Thanks Jeff I will try that

 

[Mongo]

Thanks again Jeff that trick got me a lot more end play
Been a while since I put one together
Should have remembered that
Glad I post my progress on here for guys with far more knowledge than me to help me out with this

 

[Mongo]

Well I guess that 30 years ago I must have thought that I was an Engine builder but nothing could be further from the truth
When I pulled my motor apart and found that the cam had walked into the block I figured that I might have gotten the cam end play wrong ( it was 30 years ago so I really don’t remember if I even checked it) so now I know for sure that I didn’t. I don’t think that I even owned a dial indicator so this time when I went to check it I didn’t even get the timing cover bolted in tight before my end play went to zero so I had to machine my cam button down to get the proper end play