63 Windshield - only tinted available?

[1961 Bubble Boy]

Oh ,was just wondering if you worked in the 60"s era.thought may be you did being"s you have a 1961 .Yes you have been around.

I got a soft spot for 61's in highschool in the 80's driving a 61 348 3 speed convertible to school. It was always cool to see the weird face they got expecting a 283 and seeing those weird looking valve covers when I popped the hood. I was only a twinkle in my dads eye in 1961...

 

[tripower]

Bob take it from someone who spent so much time in a water booth testing and fixing leaks at GM they thought I got water on the brain. You need to seal all interfaces otherwise water will get in.
Water has surface tension and will be drawn into tight crevices. Without sealer between the glass and gasket, water will wick right in. The shop manual has you use a sealer that is pumped in after the glass is installed to form a continuous bead around the outside edge of the gasket and the glass and again on the inside. You need a hand pump like an oil can. I have read of a guy who actually did it in a Ford plant. At home he took some metal tubing and flattened the end and stuck it over the pumper nozzle to create an nice narrow nozzle you could slip between the gasket and glass and pump in the sealer keeping it off the outside of the gasket.
You also need to seal between the gasket and the body. The manual calls out medium bodied sealer. You could use body caulk like the 3M stuff that comes in boxes of round beads which seems the consistency of the old stuff or 3M window weld which is Butyl and comes in ribbons and will seal fantastic but is messy. As mentioned in the manual make sure you take care to seal around the windshield molding clips, because the water can wick between the clip and the body and bypass the gasket and sealer.
Here is the shop manual instructions from 1961. The first two steps are to remove all the old sealer and then slip the gasket onto the glass.

As far as putting the sealer between the glass and the gasket first, I would not since you want it in the final position before you pump in the sealer to get a reliable seal. If you use sealer and the nozzle you should be dry as a drum and looking sweet.

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I am a little unclear as to what he service manual is saying in both the windshield (step 4) and back glass instructions (step 5). Are they saying to apply the ribbon of sealer to the pinch weld or the the gasket or both? It appears they are saying to apply it in the cavity of the gasket for the glass from the image, would this be the strip calk? Also step 6 it appears they are saying to apply a 1/4 ribbon to corner of windshield opening rabbit and around each side of windshield opening, is this in the gasket?

Bob what sealer did you put on the bottom and around the gasket? The instructions call for a medium body sealer which is the 3M body caulk. It comes in strips in a box. It is easy to work with. Just like the stuff used originally. The butyl is for the glass to rubber seal which per the instructions you put on after the glass is in the car.

Then here you say something different then what I interpret in the instructions, can you please explain?

 

[tripower]

Also what is used to seal the clips to the pinch weld, the strip calk? What is the process apply sealer to the pinch weld and push the clip on or apply sealer to the clip and push clip on?

 

[1961 Bubble Boy]

First keep in mind you need to seal the gasket to the body - this is done with strip caulk "medium-bodied sealer".
Once the windshield is installed, you must seal between the glass and the gasket - this is done with the CL Laurence stuff "weatherstrip adhesive"

In step 4 for the windshield they are saying to apply the strip caulk to the outside of the gasket on the surface that would contact the body's pinch weld (the flat spot not the groove). This needs to be a ribbon (flat).
They want you to apply this all the way around the gasket.

In step 5 for the back glass they are saying to apply the strip caulk to the outside of the gasket on the surface that would contact the body's pinch weld (the flat spot not the groove). This needs to be a ribbon (flat) and they suggest 1/2" wide and 1/4" tall.
They want you to apply this across the top and down the sides but not to the bottom.

In step 3 of the back glass they are saying to apply the strip caulk to the body pinch weld that would contact the gasket (the flat spot not the flange). This needs to be a ribbon (flat) and they suggest 1/2" wide by 1/4" tall.
They want you to run this completely around the entire opening. This ribbon will end up touching the ribbon on the gasket when the window is installed and the two will fill the gap.

In step 6 of the windshield they are saying to apply a round bead 1/4" diameter to the body pinch weld that would contact the gasket (the flat spot not the flange).
They want you to apply this to the sides and only the distance specified along the top and bottom. This bead will end up touching the ribbon on the gasket when the window is installed and the two will fill the gap.

The clips are sealed with the caulk. The issue is to get caulk between the clip and the pinch weld all the way along the clip. Apply some caulk first just at the clip locations and push the clip on. That would be the easiest way. You just need to make sure there is no air gap between the clip and the body that would allow water to wick past the other sealer beads and into the car.

When all done getting the glass installed, you need to now seal the glass to the gasket using the weatherstrip adhesive.

Finally, you go back and fill the remaining gap between the gasket and body with the caulk. Make sure you follow the instructions - Step 11 for windshield and 8 for the back glass.

Just to be extra clear, the caulk is sealing the gap between the gasket and the body at the wide flat spot. They call it the rabbet and being a wood worker that is what it is. No sealer goes on the pinch weld flange or in the gasket's mating groove except for some that is between the clips and body.

Oh and you might be tempted to leave everything dry and then try and pack the gap with caulk after installation. The problem is you can't get it reliably filled pushing it in.

 

[tripower]

Okay I think I have a good understanding. In this video are the putting the strip calk in the correct location?

 

[tripower]

Also they mention to use silicone spray and I have see a couple of other glass shops that said the same thing. Not sure how the flowable butyl would adhere with the silicone lube?

 

[1961 Bubble Boy]

Yes they are putting it on the correct surface which is 90 degrees to the glass, not the surface that ends up sliding into the groove in the gasket.
On the silicone, I see the idea to make the flap that needs to slide over the pinch weld slide easier and allow the gasket to slide along the pinch weld. But yes getting it in the glass groove or on the flat surface where the caulk goes is not good. I would suggest using a rag sprayed with the silicone and apply it by wiping to the inside surface of the groove and the flap that ends up getting pulled over the flange being careful not to get it elsewhere.

Oh and with the little amount of caulk they applied and no adhesive between the glass and the gasket, that delivery better not get caught in the rain...