64 SS 4-speed 327-250hp
- Thread starter zebco
- Start date
With what this car weighs,I'd recommend the 300 hp combo,or :eek:a stroker version based on a 68-69 block,with the afore mentioned big valve heads,and a mild[262 extreme energy from Comp.]Then you can get rubber in all 4 gears.Welcome aboard
What I'm going to say will probably ruin my reputation but................( go ahead guys...I can handle it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!)...........I have a complete 63 RB shortblock assy, has oil pan and water pump. Casting date is B163 and the assembly date is FO214RB. Happy Valentine's Day!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It is the 870 casting number. The Flint block makes it correct for any 63 Corvette.
I can post pictures of you like. Yes, it's for sale. I don't have any double-hump heads and 64 300HP exhaust manifolds are one year only.
I can post pictures of you like. Yes, it's for sale. I don't have any double-hump heads and 64 300HP exhaust manifolds are one year only.
Except a 63 or 64 Corvette 300 hp code would be RD.
The ideal block code is the 250 hp R code cuz it has no VIN derivitive and you can add any suffix code to the R to make it correct for any 63 standard trans car or Corvette.
:Yes Mr. Cecil.............but I believe my statement is still correct and "right". Blocks were cast in Tonawanda and Flint plants. Passenger cars used blocks from both foundries but Corvettes used only Flint blocks. You could deck this block and "wa-la"...........you too can have a matching numbered block now!!!!
Yes Mr. Cecil.............but I believe my statement is still correct and "right". Blocks were cast in Tonawanda and Flint plants. Passenger cars used blocks from both foundries but Corvettes used only Flint blocks. You could deck this block and "wa-la"...........you too can have a matching numbered block now!!!!
Of course you are right about the Tonawanda/Flint block use. My point about the R code (Flint for Corvette, either for pass car) is that the second suffix can be added as well as the VIN derivative without disturbing the original factory broach marks on the pad. Very few people can properly duplicate the broach marks on a decked pad.
:Thanks for all the info fellas, I have thought about adding the "B" to the block pad but that's cheating a bit.
On another note: I've got a whine in the rear end. Pretty sure its the ring and pinion, what should I do to for the simplest fix? Maybe needs some shims, or new everything? I don't have much experience with gears.
I guess it has a 3:36 to 1 gear.
On another note: I've got a whine in the rear end. Pretty sure its the ring and pinion, what should I do to for the simplest fix? Maybe needs some shims, or new everything? I don't have much experience with gears.
I guess it has a 3:36 to 1 gear.
S
Swiss Impala
Guest
Very nice car! Great car, congratulations.
I like the '65 pedal pads with chrome trim, I did the same. By the way
the '65 accelerator pedal with chrome trim works too.
Franz
Great car, congratulations.I like the '65 pedal pads with chrome trim, I did the same. By the way
the '65 accelerator pedal with chrome trim works too.
Franz
I still have the build sheet from my 64 Impala SS 327/300 4 speed. I found it in the springs of the rear seat bottom. Satin silver,black buckets with a black vinyl top. VINYL was hand written on the build sheet. Car was missing original 327 but had a 340 horse 409 in it. I knew where the original engine was...in a Ford Ranger pickup a few miles from here oddly enough. But the guy didnt want to sell it so I stroked the 340 horse. Car wound up on the easy coast somewhere.
Hey Bob, Good to hear from you. How is the 64 coming??