Blue smoke

RussC

Well Known Member
It does look like the edge of the baffle may be seating between the head and intake mating surfaces. If this is the case the gasket will never seal
 

427John

Well Known Member
Thanks so the pcv screws into carb now and pulls air towards carb this would be wrong ? I plan on just running hose to pcv valve from oil fill. Yes I noticed also the little bit of leakage from crossover hope I can remedy with new gaskets.
I think if you get the baffle re-positioned or trimmed as necessary and get some decent torque it'll seal up fine,as it was your leakage wasn't as bad as I would have expected.
 

Victorniner

Well Known Member
I just went and looked baffle sits low all the way around it looks like the thickness of gasket is what would seal. It's pop riveted on so I don't know how to re position or trim while on manifold
 

tenxal

Well Known Member
Clean up the old side gaskets and set them in place, set the intake on and just snug it with a couple of bolts. Then, take a feeler gauge and see how much gap there is between the bottom of the front of the intake and the top of the block. Measure the back also, if you can.

Let us know, ok?

nCzFU04h.jpg
 

DonSSDD

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
I just went and looked baffle sits low all the way around it looks like the thickness of gasket is what would seal. It's pop riveted on so I don't know how to re position or trim while on manifold
Before installing the gaskets, flip the intake upside down and set the gaskets in place using the bolt holes to line them up. Make sure the gaskets do not sit on top of the metal of the baffle or they won’t seal.
I don’t think rivers were used to fasten a baffle down, could be whoever installed the baffle pushed it down a bit too far. I’d have to see a pic of another intake baffle for comparison.
 

Iowa 409 Guy

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 15
I'm not sure they're called rivets, but they press fit into the intake. Aluminum if I recall correctly. The sheet metal baffle should be tight against the intake. If you're having fitment issues someone may have installed the baffle clocked the wrong way.
 

Rickys61

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
I'm not sure they're called rivets, but they press fit into the intake. Aluminum if I recall correctly. The sheet metal baffle should be tight against the intake. If you're having fitment issues someone may have installed the baffle clocked the wrong way.
Their called drive screws Dave... Fastenall has em but I never had good luck with them..always end up just tapping the holes for sheet metal screws and lock tite em..
 

Victorniner

Well Known Member
havent got gauge readings done but a thought just came to mind if i would have re torqued manifold bolts i bet that would have solved problem to begin with.
 

Carmine

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 10
I've never torqued intake manifold bolts before. Just tightened them until they were tight. Mostly sbc intakes. Never a problem that I recall. I won't be doing it that way anymore. Going to torque them properly and follow the sequence suggested. Don't need any issues, Carmine.
 

427John

Well Known Member
If the drive screws you speak of are are the little rivet looking things that have spiral splines on them then I've had really good luck with them but you have to stake around the holes with a center punch to shrink the holes back down before you drive them in.I've done it with aluminum and cast iron and never had a problem.
 

tenxal

Well Known Member
thank you so do i use sealer on head side of side gaskets

I do. If the intake/head angles are perfect, Hylomar gel gets used. Otherwise, the above mentioned RTV's are used. Glue the gaskets to the heads and let it set up so the gaskets don't move around when you set the intake down. Then, a bead of sealer around each port and water opening, a bead about 1/8" thick on the block ends and set the intake straight down. Sealer on the bolts that open up to the lifter valley, snug the intake down from the center outward and let it sit so the sealer cures. Snug the bolts again before firing it up. Just how I do it...lots of other ways, too.

The Edelbrock #7240 has a sealing bead around each port and the water openings, which also helps. The Fel Pro MS9788B is also a good set.

On the race stuff where intakes are off frequently, the gasket gets glued to the heads and then a thin layer of grease is used to seal the intake to the gasket. Pull the intake, regrease the gasket and you're back in biz w/o changing gaskets.
 
Top