Body Mounts

borg

Member
Hi, don´t wanna start a new thread, instead I will ask about the body mounts here.

I have a 61 ht under resto and I thinking of remove the rear springs and upper mounting plate and go with coilovers inside the frame rails but that will also remove the
CC body mounts pictured above. Will it affect the body? Should I make new plates and go with the bushings over the rear axle?
 

1961BelAir427

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
Hi, don´t wanna start a new thread, instead I will ask about the body mounts here.

I have a 61 ht under resto and I thinking of remove the rear springs and upper mounting plate and go with coilovers inside the frame rails but that will also remove the
CC body mounts pictured above. Will it affect the body? Should I make new plates and go with the bushings over the rear axle?

I designed a bolt-in crossmember when I converted to coil-overs. Zero mods to the frame and the only change to the rearend being brackets welded to the housing. I didn't remove the spring mount pockets on the frame and it could all be put back to stock springs/shocks easily.
 

borg

Member
Ok. I belive I will weld in a crossmember bar between the framerails. I don´t think it will be a big loss if I move the bodymounts inwards over the rear axle to let me remove the spring pockets that will accept wider tires!!
Are you using the oem 3 link or have you fab something on your own? I have a F 9" that will take place in the back so all brackets have to be redone. You might have som pics of your installation?
 

1961BelAir427

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
I will have to see if I can find the pictures when I get home. I may have lost them after a computer failure.
The spring pockets and body mounts were not in the way of wider tires for me. I have used up to 10" wheels and around 13" section width tires even with the stock springs/shocks. One of the best things you can do is to move the whole rearend back about an inch. Just make longer control arms to do that since you are fabbing that stuff anyway. Or make up the difference when you make your mounts. Big tires are always close to the front opening of the fenderwell so that spaces them back. I added a 4th link to compliment the 3rd. Most all of us here do that.
 

63 dream'n

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 4
I will have to see if I can find the pictures when I get home. I may have lost them after a computer failure.
The spring pockets and body mounts were not in the way of wider tires for me. I have used up to 10" wheels and around 13" section width tires even with the stock springs/shocks. One of the best things you can do is to move the whole rearend back about an inch. Just make longer control arms to do that since you are fabbing that stuff anyway. Or make up the difference when you make your mounts. Big tires are always close to the front opening of the fenderwell so that spaces them back. I added a 4th link to compliment the 3rd. Most all of us here do that.

I too am interested in seeing your photos,Jason do you run a rear stabilizer.....what rear shocks,springs(lbs) do you run.....thanks in advance.ps,is your ride height adjustable ??
 

BSL409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
Hi, don´t wanna start a new thread, instead I will ask about the body mounts here.

I have a 61 ht under resto and I thinking of remove the rear springs and upper mounting plate and go with coilovers inside the frame rails but that will also remove the
CC body mounts pictured above. Will it affect the body? Should I make new plates and go with the bushings over the rear axle?
Why do you want to do this ?:scratch are you going to race or just street use
 

1961BelAir427

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
I too am interested in seeing your photos,Jason do you run a rear stabilizer.....what rear shocks,springs(lbs) do you run.....thanks in advance.ps,is your ride height adjustable ??
Yes the ride height is adjustable, in small steps with the spring mount on the shocks and the housing brackets have a wide range of adjustment there as well. The control arms and panhard rod are all pretty much the stock design with the usual changes for tuning.
I have to say that the main reasons I went to coil-overs were: I already had the coil-overs (QA1 aluminum single adjustables and 150# springs) and I had the idea for the crossmember and wanted to do it just to know it would work good. Then right about the time I got it done, Global West came out with a very similar design for something like $2000. Mine is both stronger and definitely more adjustable.
 

1961BelAir427

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
Why do you want to do this ?:scratch are you going to race or just street use
I know you were asking Borg and not me, but for his benefit I thought I would weigh in here too. I did it for mostly track use. I knew that I needed to buy some good shocks as well as might need a spring change. Since I already had the coil-overs I thought "hey why not?" I have less in the coil over conversion than I would have spent on some good bolt in shocks.
If I were starting from scratch without those, I would probably just duplicate your rear suspension. If it works for 60' times in the 1.3's and speeds of 142+ then it is sure plenty for my hopefully mid 10's. My suggestion for anyone else would be to just go read your thread. Imitation is flattery Brian! :deal
 
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borg

Member
Thanks for the advise about moving it furher back, Today the car sits on 11.5" rims and 295/60-15 tires but I want that prostreet look!!! Will be a oem resto with LSX engine 4L80E/TH400 most street use but will try the local track sometimes:). I have a lot of work infront of me cus the frame is rusty from kickup and back.
 

Jeff Olson

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
You may have better luck jacking the car up with a floor jack in the back under the rear end pumpkin then placing some jack stands under the rockers just in front of the rear wheel well then slowly drop the frame down using the weight of the frame to separate. Then replace the 6-body mounts in the back. Repeat the same process in the front jacking at the front cross member placing the jack stands at the front of the rockers and replace the remaining 2-body mounts. Good Luck

View attachment 25765
Interested in trading that 61 for a 71 GMC pickup and a slightly used wife??:think
 

borg

Member
If I were starting from scratch without those, I would probably just duplicate your rear suspension. If it works for 60' times in the 1.3's and speeds of 142+ then it is sure plenty for my hopefully mid 10's. My suggestion for anyone else would be to just go read your thread. Imitation is flattery Brian! :deal
Is there a build tread for that rear? Stock with improvements?
 

borg

Member
I´ve start reading it a couple of months ago but read it again now. Is BSL409 using the anti roll bar instead of the panhard bar?? Or is it to reduce the horizontal moving?
Is it possible to fit 2,5" exhaust over the rear or do you run the outlet infront of the rear whell?
 

1961BelAir427

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
The anti-roll bar is to keep the launch level. I don't have one, but it is on the to-do list.

Glad you asked about the exhaust. That is another reason I went with the coil-overs. I haven't ran it yet, but hoping to squeeze 3.5" all the way out the back by running it over the rear lower control arms and below the spring pocket right where the spring used to sit. Not positive I can pull that off, but I think it will work.
Otherwise to go out the back, 2.5" is about the biggest you can squeeze by with a 8" rim and that sometimes means the pipe has to be flattened out where it goes between the tire and frame.
 

borg

Member
Yeah, when I look att the frame now with the big spring in place it looks very tight to fit the exhaust. I belive the coilovers is just positive. Start cuting out the rusty parts tomorrow and weld in new. I will also full weld the frame frame seam.
Blasted... Find a hard beated frame. This was sold by local GM here in Sweden 1961. I belive I will remove everything from the crossmember (tank brace?) and back.
blasted.jpg
 

1961BelAir427

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
Your crossmember is already drilled for the 4th link (2nd upper control arm) that is cool. Haven't seen one that was pre-drilled like that before.
 
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