Carburetor Fitting

Jim Sullivan

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 10
I've been looking for a carb fitting for the rear carb on my 409. Needing to drop the air cleaner down further than normal and of course I couldn't get a tight enough bend on the 3/8" hard line. So, I could only find a banjo fitting with a chrome line or the small banjo fitting that takes a hose, for an Edelbrock. I took a 3/8 flare union, machined off the flare on one side then soldered in the banjo fitting.
Then I started wondering if I could trust the solder with underhood temps. The solder melts around 370°. Safe or not? Or is there a solder with a higher melting point? I would much rather have bought a fitting like this. Anyone know a supplier that has one?IMG_20200129_194517.jpgIMG_20200129_194600.jpg
 

IMBVSUR?

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
I've been looking for a carb fitting for the rear carb on my 409. Needing to drop the air cleaner down further than normal and of course I couldn't get a tight enough bend on the 3/8" hard line. So, I could only find a banjo fitting with a chrome line or the small banjo fitting that takes a hose, for an Edelbrock. I took a 3/8 flare union, machined off the flare on one side then soldered in the banjo fitting.
Then I started wondering if I could trust the solder with underhood temps. The solder melts around 370°. Safe or not? Or is there a solder with a higher melting point? I would much rather have bought a fitting like this. Anyone know a supplier that has one?View attachment 78332View attachment 78333

Whether it works out or not. Nice job :good
 

boxerdog

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 5
Big difference between silver-bearing solder and real silver solder. But the Stay-Brite stuff is very strong, I wouldn't be a bit afraid of it if there is a good mechanical fit, and it looks like there is. Or you could cut off the AN fitting and flare the Eddy piece.
 

Jim Sullivan

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 10
The temp would not bother me, the vibration would.
Lots to think about, with threads on the flare union, the lip for the hose on the banjo fitting and what looks like a really good solder joint, I hope vibration won't be a problem, but.. you never know. I keep thinking about the temperature issue. As long as the engine is running, there's fuel flowing through the fitting to keep the temp down. After shut off, would a carb or under hood temp get over 350-400 degrees? Guess I'll have to check on that.
Big difference between silver-bearing solder and real silver solder. But the Stay-Brite stuff is very strong, I wouldn't be a bit afraid of it if there is a good mechanical fit, and it looks like there is. Or you could cut off the AN fitting and flare the Eddy piece.
I may try flaring the tube on the Eddy fitting, but it's chrome so I'm not confident it will flare without cracking. Wish someone just made this fitting.
 

La Hot Rods

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 15
Silver solder should work, that's what is used for HVAC home systems. I'm sure there is plenty of vibration in one of those condensing units.
I used it on the fuel line fitting on the MGB, so far so good.
 

wristpin

Well Known Member
Go to hardware store and get one stick of Seal Floss. Melt out your old solder then get brass/copper almost glowing red. Touch the seal floss to the metal (pre-heat seal floss until its near melting). That stuff will survive a fire. Its easy to use.
 

Jim Sullivan

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 10
Well, I was a little concerned about the solder melting on the brass fitting. I looked at all the options noted and just didn't find exactly what I was looking for. I decided to make a fitting using ideas from other fitting designs. I would have liked to find a one piece fitting similar to the one I soldered up. This ia as close I could make. Machined a piece of steel and brazed a flared tube into a countersunk hole. Now to pressure test it.IMG_20200318_072057.jpgIMG_20200318_072105.jpgIMG_20200318_072133.jpgIMG_20200318_072247.jpg
 
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