Double flare tool for tubing, need a good one.

bobs409

 
Administrator
Good news! Using Don's suggestion about milling and using my extra C clamps did the trick. I made 3 perfect double flares so far so I'm convinced. I milled 10 thousandths off one side, put on beefier washers and tried it but it slipped again! I noticed the tool was actually bending itself around the tube now and not closing all the way so I put 2 C clamps on and it worked. Just saved myself $400 :D And best of all, NO LEAKS! :bow

BTW, there was no sign of wear on this tool. The grooves in each opening are still present and look good. It just needed the "bigger hammer" approach! :smash
 

bobs409

 
Administrator
Well, I wouldn't want you to pass out or anything! :sweat It was HOT though. My garage was nice, felt like AC in there. :shaker
 

models916

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 7
Lot of times the new end of the tube will harden from the cut. I use a MAP gas torch on the to be flared end to re-soften the cut before I make the flare. I use a Ridged clamp and screw with a Craftsman dbl flare insert.
 

61-63

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 5
Bob you didn't say if you are flaring aluminum or stainless steel but I have double flared hundreds of 3/8" aluminum lines with that very tool. I put the long jaw in my bench vise tight, then insert the fuel line
between the jaws, then swing the stud on the short jaw up into the slot and tighten both wing nuts with a punch that fits between the wings - very tight, and then double flare the line. I tighten both wing nuts to the point where I've broken a wing or two off and had to get a replacement wing nut from the hardware store. I dress the knurling the jaws leave on the line next to the flare with a fine tooth file.

I highly recommend double flaring ANY aluminum tubing fuel line because the aluminum compresses when tightened to the point where there is no leak, to the extent that the line needs to be replaced
after being removed and reinstalled not very many times. Double flaring makes the line both seal better and last longer before it must be replaced. An "o" ring can be placed between the male and female
fittings and that WILL create a seal but if the "o" ring ever breaks there will be an instantaneous big time leak.

Re the Edelbrock comment I put brass EDE-8090 fuel inlets in every AFB I do that will use the 3/8" lines and there is no problem with them.
 

bobs409

 
Administrator
Bob you didn't say if you are flaring aluminum or stainless steel but I have double flared hundreds of 3/8" aluminum lines with that very tool. I put the long jaw in my bench vise tight, then insert the fuel line
between the jaws, then swing the stud on the short jaw up into the slot and tighten both wing nuts with a punch that fits between the wings - very tight, and then double flare the line. I tighten both wing nuts to the point where I've broken a wing or two off and had to get a replacement wing nut from the hardware store. I dress the knurling the jaws leave on the line next to the flare with a fine tooth file.

I highly recommend double flaring ANY aluminum tubing fuel line because the aluminum compresses when tightened to the point where there is no leak, to the extent that the line needs to be replaced
after being removed and reinstalled not very many times. Double flaring makes the line both seal better and last longer before it must be replaced. An "o" ring can be placed between the male and female
fittings and that WILL create a seal but if the "o" ring ever breaks there will be an instantaneous big time leak.

Re the Edelbrock comment I put brass EDE-8090 fuel inlets in every AFB I do that will use the 3/8" lines and there is no problem with them.

These were regular steel lines. I couldn't even imagine trying stainless with this! :fear2

I did the same thing as you, put in the threaded fuel inlets so I could run steel line into the carb. (which is why I needed a double flare tool) I never cared for rubber hose running up and over a hot engine, not sure why Edelbrock does that. It seems like the threaded fittings they sell will only tolerate a double flare. A single seems to leak with these.
 

61-63

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 5
Ah, I don't know that I could do it with steel either? The Pontiac Super Duty cars used aluminum lines and those are the setups I do. Come to think of it I did do some steel lines for a '56 Pontiac dual quad setup once but I don't remember if I double flared them.
 

Attachments

  • 56 pontiac 2x4s 2.jpg
    56 pontiac 2x4s 2.jpg
    80.6 KB · Views: 1

yellow wagon

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
I bent and flared all the stainless brake lines on my car using a 50 year old Blue Point flaring tool, a RIGID tubing bender and a RIGID tubing cutter. I get a couple bad flares from time to time but usually the issue is the wing nuts aren't clamped down onto the tube tight enough. I use a screw driver through the wing nuts for more leverage. They gotta be TIGHT to keep the tube from slipping. If it slips or moves even a tiny amount, the flare is junk. Also be absolutely sure that the die that forms the flare on the tube end is perfectly straight. A portion of my 3/16 die is broken (the straight part that goes inside the tube) but still works like a champ. With some practice and working slow and you can flare just about anything.
 
Last edited:

skipxt4

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 18
Also, if your using a Cheap Flaring set, like H.F. after awhile , the knurls get worn down, inside the clamp, and the tube will slide.:doh Then we over tighten the clamp, and break it off.:bang
 

bobs409

 
Administrator
I think this is from H.F. but the grooves are still good on it and I used this a lot. It was only the 3/8 line that gave me trouble, the smaller sizes work easier.
 

blkblk63ss

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 5
I think this is from H.F. but the grooves are still good on it and I used this a lot. It was only the 3/8 line that gave me trouble, the smaller sizes work easier.
Just throw it in the trash , get a better one.:furious
 
Top