Hard starting

blkblk63ss

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 5
Heck,90 percent of the time,I never even remove the dist.from the engine to do a pertronix installation,but I was using the basic kits.There have been changes over the years,so I don't doubt what Don ran into either.
Not real sure if it was a pertromic kit, but the reason I had to remove gear was the shaft had too much slop up and down and shims were supplied with it.
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
Well,if a sharper running engine was the goal,ALL GM drizzy's were removed and that slop was taken care of as well as other things.A person with a putt around usually didn't to pay for the extra work.The Fords and Chryslers weren't too bad there,but all those GM's were terribly loose there.
 

rstreet

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 17
I've been following this one and realize the opening post said was ignition problem (no spark) I have seen lots of fuel vapor issues with our older ones and not only limited to 348's 409's as it seems to be affecting lots of different vehicles. Just thinking:rub:rub
It doesn't seem to have to be a very hot day to cause this from what I hear.
Robert
 

blkblk63ss

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 5
I've been following this one and realize the opening post said was ignition problem (no spark) I have seen lots of fuel vapor issues with our older ones and not only limited to 348's 409's as it seems to be affecting lots of different vehicles. Just thinking:rub:rub
It doesn't seem to have to be a very hot day to cause this from what I hear.
Robert
He never said for sure there was no spark till after starter issue was mentioned. He mentioned only coil was replaced first, so do we assume he was guessing on no start or indeed had no spark. Just want to clear that up.
 

rstreet

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 17
I am not a ASE certified person or certified in anything but Wastewater BNR and pumping facitities stuff before retirement but.... based on what Don is saying I am going to offer this. I have a Thexton ignition analyzer, picture below, and have had to use it several times..Heck owned it so long it probably isn't made anymore. My suggestion is to get one of these and test your skills a few times then keep it with you so when the car won't fire quickly stick this on any plug wire preferably one that is on the dark side of the hood so to properly see what the spark is doing. This can be done in seconds and will quickly tell you the spark condition so that a fuel problem can or not be eliminated.
Robert
p+OpUJukTCiTUExSB8Cw6Q.jpg
 

Hobart

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 1
I am not a ASE certified person or certified in anything but Wastewater BNR and pumping facitities stuff before retirement but.... based on what Don is saying I am going to offer this. I have a Thexton ignition analyzer, picture below, and have had to use it several times..Heck owned it so long it probably isn't made anymore. My suggestion is to get one of these and test your skills a few times then keep it with you so when the car won't fire quickly stick this on any plug wire preferably one that is on the dark side of the hood so to properly see what the spark is doing. This can be done in seconds and will quickly tell you the spark condition so that a fuel problem can or not be eliminated.
Robert
View attachment 64512

Still available at Amazon and a bunch of other places: Thexton
 

427John

Well Known Member
Indytaco,prior to spending money on points eliminator kits or electronic ignitions find the root cause of no spark,using a voltmeter check for power at the + and - post of the coil and under the cap where the wire from the coil connects to the points.Do this when cold and the engine will start and then do it again when hot and you have a no start condition write down the voltages at each point and compare them.Also double check your coil to determine whether it requires a ballast resistor or resistor wire if it does make sure the volts to the + post is less than 9 and make sure it is actually a good coil(new doesn't always =good).If the voltages all check good,then use the ohms function of your meter to check that points are actually making and breaking the circuit to ground.Without finding the actual cause of no spark, throwing a bunch of expensive parts at it may or may not fix the problem.
 
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