taws697
Well Known Member
It does. I kind of wish it didn’t, oh well.I like the dash color!
Does the rear have the big welded on emblem or "natural"?
It does. I kind of wish it didn’t, oh well.I like the dash color!
Does the rear have the big welded on emblem or "natural"?
Trick Flow: 175cc intake runner, 60cc combustion chamber heart shaped like the Vortec, 74cc exhaust port D port like the LT1, 2.02-1.60 valves, 20lbs.The heads have 60cc chambers. It’s got a factory small journal crank with arp main studs, “Pink” LT1 rods, and .030 over forged flat tops with valve reliefs. I believe I’m at about 10.4:1 with a .040” quench.
What casting block did you use? 1-3/4 headers, Hooker. The 1-5/8, Headman, headers don't properly cover the D-port runners, and the exhaust actually hits the header flange at the top. you'd figure it's traveling up anyway. (That was random, this stuff is in my head sometimes) The 1.625 headers are bare minimum with the 1.60 exhaust valve.Thank you. It has the Trick flow aluminum double hump look alike heads as well as an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake manifold. I ground all of the markings off of the manifold and did some port matching on the heads and intake. Trying to pull off a factory look though. The voodoo solid flat tappet might give it away though.
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The block is a 3782870. I’m running the Hooker Super Comps 1 3/4”. They are a tight fit, I had to do some dimpling prior to sending them out for Jet-Hot coating.What casting block did you use? 1-3/4 headers, Hooker. The 1-5/8, Headman, headers don't properly cover the D-port runners, and the exhaust actually hits the header flange at the top. you'd figure it's traveling up anyway. (That was random, this stuff is in my head sometimes) The 1.625 headers are bare minimum with the 1.60 exhaust valve.
Thank you. I was definitely sweating during that one. I don’t believe it can be replaced if I were to goof it up.I see his point but I don't agree with it. I'd trust that Sun tach long before I'd trust an original or repop POS. Plus OG or repop is 3-4x the price screw that. You put it in the ORIGINAL housing in the correct location, not some gawdy 5" super tach with a shift light right on top of the dash like most people doThis car is fantastic it has all the right stuff on it
I'd be nervous cutting that original, virgin, 58 year old floormat too but you aced it dude.
Man it's been a long time since I thought about this stuff. 205lb 870 blocks with 3.25 stamp pads. Nodular iron caps with ARP stuff. I like the tach too. Brings back memories.The block is a 3782870. I’m running the Hooker Super Comps 1 3/4”. They are a tight fit, I had to do some dimpling prior to sending them out for Jet-Hot coating.
taws697,
Did you use something like the Show Cars 4243 "tunnel extension" for the hole in the floor? Did you use the SC template? What did you use to fasten the piece to the floor pan. Don't think I would want sheet metal screws poking thru underneath. Would also want to be pretty smooth on the top side so as to not rub a hole in the floor mat. This is something I plan on doing to my 63 Belair. Like the color, very nice looking ride!
Thank youCute baby congratulations
what is the width of your Quick Performance rear end from backing plate to backing plate mounting? Did you narrow it from the stock rear end width of 60 inches? What disc brake size/ package is that ? Is it bolting to ford mounts on the end of the housing?
finally what ratio rear end ratio did you order? - you have a 2:52 first gear muncie ( wide ratio)?
I have a stock rear end (60” width ) with Right stuff disc brakes that I want to transfer to a 9” Ford plus some guys narrow the housing for more tire width in the stock wheel well for drag radials or slicks.
Paul