taws697
Well Known Member
It does. I kind of wish it didn’t, oh well.
Help with 9” and driveshaft
- Thread starter taws697
- Start date
63impaloligist
Well Known Member
Trick Flow: 175cc intake runner, 60cc combustion chamber heart shaped like the Vortec, 74cc exhaust port D port like the LT1, 2.02-1.60 valves, 20lbs.
Chevy 3782461-X: 172cc intake runner, 62.076cc combustion chamber, 64cc exhaust port, 1.94-1.50 valves, 42lbs.
63impaloligist
Well Known Member
What casting block did you use? 1-3/4 headers, Hooker. The 1-5/8, Headman, headers don't properly cover the D-port runners, and the exhaust actually hits the header flange at the top. you'd figure it's traveling up anyway. (That was random, this stuff is in my head sometimes) The 1.625 headers are bare minimum with the 1.60 exhaust valve.
I see his point but I don't agree with it. I'd trust that Sun tach long before I'd trust an original or repop POS. Plus OG or repop is 3-4x the price screw that. You put it in the ORIGINAL housing in the correct location, not some gawdy 5" super tach with a shift light right on top of the dash like most people do
This car is fantastic it has all the right stuff on it
I'd be nervous cutting that original, virgin, 58 year old floormat too but you aced it dude.
This car is fantastic it has all the right stuff on itI'd be nervous cutting that original, virgin, 58 year old floormat too but you aced it dude.
taws697
Well Known Member
The block is a 3782870. I’m running the Hooker Super Comps 1 3/4”. They are a tight fit, I had to do some dimpling prior to sending them out for Jet-Hot coating.
taws697
Well Known Member
Thank you. I was definitely sweating during that one. I don’t believe it can be replaced if I were to goof it up.I see his point but I don't agree with it. I'd trust that Sun tach long before I'd trust an original or repop POS. Plus OG or repop is 3-4x the price screw that. You put it in the ORIGINAL housing in the correct location, not some gawdy 5" super tach with a shift light right on top of the dash like most people do
I'd be nervous cutting that original, virgin, 58 year old floormat too but you aced it dude.
63impaloligist
Well Known Member
Man it's been a long time since I thought about this stuff. 205lb 870 blocks with 3.25 stamp pads. Nodular iron caps with ARP stuff. I like the tach too. Brings back memories.
Nice……..
63impaloligist
Well Known Member
Man, that thing runs smooth.
taws697,
Did you use something like the Show Cars 4243 "tunnel extension" for the hole in the floor? Did you use the SC template? What did you use to fasten the piece to the floor pan. Don't think I would want sheet metal screws poking thru underneath. Would also want to be pretty smooth on the top side so as to not rub a hole in the floor mat. This is something I plan on doing to my 63 Belair. Like the color, very nice looking ride!
Did you use something like the Show Cars 4243 "tunnel extension" for the hole in the floor? Did you use the SC template? What did you use to fasten the piece to the floor pan. Don't think I would want sheet metal screws poking thru underneath. Would also want to be pretty smooth on the top side so as to not rub a hole in the floor mat. This is something I plan on doing to my 63 Belair. Like the color, very nice looking ride!
Taws697 can answer also but GM installed on all factory four speed Chevys 61 to 63 the "tunnel cover (painted black)" (like what TAWS used) and it was attached using short philips sheetmetal screws to the floor on every model Biscayne, Belair and Impalas with factory 4 speeds with carpet or vinyl floor covering. This tunnel cover placed the factory rubber boot around the shifter level at its elevation with the tunnel including the factory 4 speed SS cars with a shift plate
The Show Cars 4 speed template was made I am sure from factory 4 speed cars -GM actually drilled small holes on the corners of recentangular floor holes (on original 4 speed cars I have seen).
See my attached pictures from my factory 4 speed Impala convertible(the floor hole in this car was cut by GM). The black tunnel cover was drilled for a round rubber boot on bench seat cars and for the round bottom SS boot on factory SS 4 speed cars with a shift plate.
Paul
Cute baby congratulations
what is the width of your Quick Performance rear end from backing plate to backing plate mounting? Did you narrow it from the stock rear end width of 60 inches? What disc brake size/ package is that ? Is it bolting to ford mounts on the end of the housing?
finally what ratio rear end ratio did you order? - you have a 2:52 first gear muncie ( wide ratio)?
I have a stock rear end (60” width ) with Right stuff disc brakes that I want to transfer to a 9” Ford plus some guys narrow the housing for more tire width in the stock wheel well for drag radials or slicks.
Paul
what is the width of your Quick Performance rear end from backing plate to backing plate mounting? Did you narrow it from the stock rear end width of 60 inches? What disc brake size/ package is that ? Is it bolting to ford mounts on the end of the housing?
finally what ratio rear end ratio did you order? - you have a 2:52 first gear muncie ( wide ratio)?
I have a stock rear end (60” width ) with Right stuff disc brakes that I want to transfer to a 9” Ford plus some guys narrow the housing for more tire width in the stock wheel well for drag radials or slicks.
Paul
taws697
Well Known Member
Thank you
I ordered the rearend from Quick Performance as a stock width rearend package. I’m hoping the wheel mounting surface distance is identical to my stock setup. I’m currently running 15x8’s with 4.25” backspacing and 275/60-15 MT ET street drag radials and they fit well. As far as brakes, I checked the box for “11in disk brakes with parking brake.” I’ll try to get you some more dimensions off of it tonight. The Muncie I have is a close ratio (2.20) and I ordered the rear with 4.56 gears.
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